penetrating oil?

[chainsaw kid]

knocker loose....comes in a red can with a fictitious picture of a gorilla on it.
Hard to find but works good.

 

[charlesfarm]

K&W Knock'er Loose -- best stuff I've ever used. Owner at the local NAPA store got me started using it.

edit: Ha!! Chainsaw Kid beat me to it -- we must have been typing at the same time!!!!

 

[gtstang462002]

I work for the local ford dealer. If any of you have ever tried pulling spark plugs out of a 5.4L with the 3 valve motor AroeKroil or SiloKroil is your absolute best friend. You just have to be patiend with it and let it work. Take the puller off of it and let the oil work its way in and come back in 24hrs and try to pull at that point in time... Anti-seeze is not always a great option on all aplications. I would recomend wheel bearing grease on this application when reinstalling.

 

[cabinman]

.

I work for the local ford dealer. If any of you have ever tried pulling spark plugs out of a 5.4L with the 3 valve motor AroeKroil or SiloKroil is your absolute best friend. You just have to be patiend with it and let it work. Take the puller off of it and let the oil work its way in and come back in 24hrs and try to pull at that point in time... Anti-seeze is not always a great option on all aplications. I would recomend wheel bearing grease on this application when reinstalling.

Gtstang, Iam curious as to what properites in the neverseize wood make it 2nd choice in this application and others, compared to a wheel brg grease,? Thanks E,J,

 

[Ken05]

For the really, really tough stuff nothin beats heat. I use a 70,000 btu rosebud tip on my oxy/acetaline torch and that and a couple of wacks with the 12 lb maul will break loose a 4" schedule 80 steam fitting that has been corroding for thirty years in a few seconds.

 

[cabinman]

True

For the really, really tough stuff nothin beats heat. I use a 70,000 btu rosebud tip on my oxy/acetaline torch and that and a couple of wacks with the 12 lb maul will break loose a 4" schedule 80 steam fitting that has been corroding for thirty years in a few seconds.

True, But, In this case, were dealing with a tempered crankshaft, and a ruber seal damage wood probably result, not to mention its probably a cast Iron flywheel, that might crack, And If there are and mag parts behind it that wood not be good,. Otherwise, Giver HELL, and Buster loose,. E,J,

 

[cjnspecial]

If you have an impact wrench, try tighten each bolt a few hits at a time and it should pull it out.
Also, you might try using a different puller like this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37824
Using a puller like this one centers the pulling force and would be more efficient...especially if you used an imact wrench.
Last but not least...Use Kroil.

 

[czar800]

Heat, penetrating oil & a good puller. only heat the flywheel try to keep the heat of the crank the heat will expand the flywheel and don't be scared to use penetrating oil and hit the puller with a hammer.

 

[MATTYB11]

Heat, penetrating oil & a good puller. only heat the flywheel try to keep the heat of the crank the heat will expand the flywheel and don't be scared to use penetrating oil and hit the puller with a hammer.

I agree. Preload the puller and add heat to the flywheel only. Jsut be careful I've had stubborn bearings suddenly "pop" off with this method. good luck

 

[Darkhorse]

Ive always thought VIBERATION was the # one enemy of any thing mechinical, or structural, And use it alot to get things apart,. I wood remove the puller, and take a large starter punch, (better than a drift punch), As your moter is sitting (shaft verticle), there is a raised portion of the flywheel, looks like about a half in tall,. using a large hammer, and a large starter punch, hit that portion of the flywheel, all the way around, with some pretty stuot wachs, HOLDING the punch horiziontaly, Then go around the raised portion of the hub, Holding the punch at a 45 degree angle, The viberation/force, breakes down the grip the flywheel has on the shaft, Now install the puller, put as much safe preload as you can on the puller, and using a large diameter shank, and hammer, Hit the end of the shaft/puller, area, If it dosent break loose keep it wet with a good penetrant, and try the viberation thing again tommorow, Good Luck, Eric

What he said!

 

[mga]

Use a large steel hammer, the soft copper has only a fraction of viberation ability as a steel hammer,. Eric

well....i figured what's the worst that could happen...right?

so, i took my large ball-peen hammer and a large drift punch and whacked it a few times around the bossed areas, then a couple hits on top and *pop* up it came.

the only damage was one of those magnets came loose, but remained intact.

maybe a little epoxy....

almost 5 days of hitting, heating and banging on that cursed flywheel! i could see where the rust was "welding" it to the shaft's taper once i got it off. some 600 paper and it's as good as new.

definately anti-sieze on this one for future service. my log splitter better appreciate the time i put in this engine.

and....a few cans of Kroil or PB Blaster is on the list. thanks for the encouragement..lol

 

[glenn31792]

break free clp

 

[mga]

break free clp

you must have ESP.....i was just reading about that stuff on line.

 

[smcowboy1974]

Oils

Kroil, PB Blaster, drain oil, Marvel Mystery Oil, and Penephite.

 

[gtstang462002]

Gtstang, Iam curious as to what properites in the neverseize wood make it 2nd choice in this application and others, compared to a wheel brg grease,? Thanks E,J,

Anti sieze is anickle based anti corrosive. It works great for steel to aluminum aplications that remain stationary. When the joint is a rotating mass combined with heat though not much the anti seeze thins out and works itself free at which time you are back into square one. The grease is a little thicker and has different adhearent properties. General rule of thumb with tight fitting applications is steel:steel use wheel bearing grease, steel:aluminum or aluminum:aluminum use antiseeze.

 

[cjcocn]

Anti sieze is anickle based anti corrosive. It works great for steel to aluminum aplications that remain stationary. When the joint is a rotating mass combined with heat though not much the anti seeze thins out and works itself free at which time you are back into square one. The grease is a little thicker and has different adhearent properties. General rule of thumb with tight fitting applications is steel:steel use wheel bearing grease, steel:aluminum or aluminum:aluminum use antiseeze.

gtstang

What of instances where the application is steel:steel and the object(s) is largely stationary and/or does not generate heat? Let's use a cross-member on a truck as an example. Would anti-seize not work in that application?

I have been using anti-seize on almost everything and would like to know if I should look at grease as an alternative in certain situations.

Thanks

 

[mga]

i have the copper anti-sieze stuff and the black stuff. one of them is hi-temp. we used to use it on molding machines and such.

 

[gtstang462002]

gtstang

What of instances where the application is steel:steel and the object(s) is largely stationary and/or does not generate heat? Let's use a cross-member on a truck as an example. Would anti-seize not work in that application?

I have been using anti-seize on almost everything and would like to know if I should look at grease as an alternative in certain situations.

Thanks

I have always used my "general rule of thumb" for anticorrosives and come back years later for overhaul and never had a problem comming back apart. I do alot of work on farm tractors that are never cleaned my their owners. They are always put away with mud and crud on them.

 

[cabinman]

well....i figured what's the worst that could happen...right?

so, i took my large ball-peen hammer and a large drift punch and whacked it a few times around the bossed areas, then a couple hits on top and *pop* up it came.

the only damage was one of those magnets came loose, but remained intact.

maybe a little epoxy....

almost 5 days of hitting, heating and banging on that cursed flywheel! i could see where the rust was "welding" it to the shaft's taper once i got it off. some 600 paper and it's as good as new.

definately anti-sieze on this one for future service. my log splitter better appreciate the time i put in this engine.

and....a few cans of Kroil or PB Blaster is on the list. thanks for the encouragement..lol

MGA, Did you giver a couple wacks around the outer edges, where the magnets are?, If you etch the mating surfaces epoxy should be fine, E,J,

 

[cabinman]

Antiseeze

Anti sieze is anickle based anti corrosive. It works great for steel to aluminum aplications that remain stationary. When the joint is a rotating mass combined with heat though not much the anti seeze thins out and works itself free at which time you are back into square one. The grease is a little thicker and has different adhearent properties. General rule of thumb with tight fitting applications is steel:steel use wheel bearing grease, steel:aluminum or aluminum:aluminum use antiseeze.

Gtstang, Iam having trouble understanding why grease would be better than antiseeze, when there is heat and a rotating mass,.What would make the grease hold up to heat and a rotating mass any better than antiseeze, Thanks Eric