Pine tree over leach field

[bk12134]

Hello,

Purchasing a home where the original homeowner planted a pine tree smack dab, right on top of the septic system leach field. The tree looks relatively you and immature. Probably 6-8 ft tall with a 3-4 inch trunk base. The tree has to go as I am worried that it could cause problems in the leach drains (may already have). If I cut the tree down, how can I be sure that the roots do not continue to grow? I can't just rip the tree out with a truck as I am worried that the roots could already be under the drain lines. I am planning on cutting the stump a few inches below grade then trying to poison the root system. Anybody have any experience on this? I have heard to drill holes in the stump and pack it full of copper sulphate. I assume I could also identify the larger roots, cut into them and do the same thing.

Are pine tree roots known to continue to grow after the tree has been eliminated? Also, are pine tree roots deep or shallow but wide?

Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[ch woodchuck]

That's a small pine,not much of a root system.And you're sure it's a pine?There are conifers that will basal sprout,that would be my only concern.If it is a pine remove it,No need to poison the root systemIf your not having septic/leachfield problems.Digging a 12''hole below soil level and removing the stump at that level will hasten the process of decay.The amount of stored nutrients in that small root system is minimal.and root growth is not a consideration
Or....digging a deeper hole cutting off the horizional spreading roots/tap root and remove the root ball.

 

[bk12134]

Called homeowner today and confirmed that it is a white pine. What the hell is a Tap root? The copper sulphate wouldn't hurt anything would it? Just want to do it once and get it over with. Can't really go down 12" bc it is a mound system and that is probably where the true field starts.

Thanks

 

[oscar4883]

I have a family member that runs a septic business and in the past I have done some clearing work for him on new installs. Depending on the design of the system he tells me that code requires that the tree be removed but everything, i.e. the stump, roots, stay. Stumps, rocks, etc., all stay and the area gets a scratch from the teeth of an hoe, then the install begins. I can't imagine your one tree being a big deal once it is gone. Maybe contact a local septic guy and see what they say if no one hear has the answer you are looking for.

 

[ch woodchuck]

You making a mountain out of a mole hill..cut it as close to the ground as possible...real simple.Anybody wants to charge you money for the same answers,your call.Been in business(tree care)for 40 yrs,been throught this scene many times.Most of this town is(me too)on septic systems.deal with this stuff all the time.

 

[Ikeholt]

I've worked with septic systems for a living for 25 years. There are septic systems in the woods everywhere around here. In my experience they fail less often than systems in the open. If roots are a problem it is usually between the tank and the house or distribution box. Root problems in the leach field are overrated in my opinion. Just my 2 cents.

 

[ch woodchuck]

slightly off topic..Ike,Hope you folks have a simpler system than we have.This part of the county(small town..1500)Newer systems have to be engineered!We're real close to the coastal bluffs,so the coastal commission has a lot to say.these are mounds systems.Electric pump pulls the poop out of the tank to the mound system.Guess what happens when the electricity goes outthats right folks no shower,no poop no nothing!10 days a yr average.We've got an old working system..we don't get them problems.

 

[Ikeholt]

I prefer gravity systems as well, however about half here have pumps. About 1/4 of systems are mounds. We have some constructed wetland cells that work really well. New to this area is a gravity fed mound. About half of the systems here required an engineered drawing.