Pioneer Farmsaw Adventure
- Thread starter RC Cole
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
i prolly have one if ya cant find anything closer to you.
used.
used.
pm yer info.
i'll dig one up.
need anything else besides coil? none here that i'd bother sendin.
i'll dig one up.
need anything else besides coil? none here that i'd bother sendin.
The saga continues.
Pulling the flywheel ws slowed until the flywheel puller for a Mini KTM arrived. The banging on the shaft just really bothers me, so it was worth the $14. The new seals went in ( more importantly to me the old ones came out thanks to the Leslie seal puller). Note to self, remember to heat the piston before trying to remove or install wrist pins. Used a carriage bolt some nuts a big washer , some rubber and a short spacer that was on the floor. High Tech Redneck. Too late I read to resist the urge to not to use an impact to loosen the flywheel nut, oh well , we well see. The primary compression test liked to whoop my butt. Note to self , forget the plastic for seal plates. Note to self don't try to cut 1/8 stainless with the dremel tool. Aluminum is cheap compared to the time. I still could not keep a seal on the intake. ( Original rubber seal was cut with the center out, thought I could use the reed block Duh)
fixed that , Still could not hold pressure until I sprayed the bolt I am using for a compression plug, Bubbles Galore ( no not the stripper) a nice size washer fixed that vacuum is at 5 minutes . Not sure if its ready to finish assembly. I can easily turn over the engine by the flywheel. The ring end gap set at 0.090 and the old ring and piston really looked ok to me.
I did the carb kit on the Tillotson not 8 minutes like the youtube gal more like hour and a half ( but 45 minutes was looking for one screw I thought bounced off the tray and I move the whole bench to find ( first time in 12 years buncha junk back there) turned out in was in the bowl of gas that I had the gasket and pump sheet in duh). Last photo is vacuum after 5 minutes.
l
l
Pulling the flywheel ws slowed until the flywheel puller for a Mini KTM arrived. The banging on the shaft just really bothers me, so it was worth the $14. The new seals went in ( more importantly to me the old ones came out thanks to the Leslie seal puller). Note to self, remember to heat the piston before trying to remove or install wrist pins. Used a carriage bolt some nuts a big washer , some rubber and a short spacer that was on the floor. High Tech Redneck. Too late I read to resist the urge to not to use an impact to loosen the flywheel nut, oh well , we well see. The primary compression test liked to whoop my butt. Note to self , forget the plastic for seal plates. Note to self don't try to cut 1/8 stainless with the dremel tool. Aluminum is cheap compared to the time. I still could not keep a seal on the intake. ( Original rubber seal was cut with the center out, thought I could use the reed block Duh)
fixed that , Still could not hold pressure until I sprayed the bolt I am using for a compression plug, Bubbles Galore ( no not the stripper) a nice size washer fixed that vacuum is at 5 minutes . Not sure if its ready to finish assembly. I can easily turn over the engine by the flywheel. The ring end gap set at 0.090 and the old ring and piston really looked ok to me.
I did the carb kit on the Tillotson not 8 minutes like the youtube gal more like hour and a half ( but 45 minutes was looking for one screw I thought bounced off the tray and I move the whole bench to find ( first time in 12 years buncha junk back there) turned out in was in the bowl of gas that I had the gasket and pump sheet in duh). Last photo is vacuum after 5 minutes.
l
l
Hope this is a typo.
The saga continues.
Pulling the flywheel ws slowed until the flywheel puller for a Mini KTM arrived. The banging on the shaft just really bothers me, so it was worth the $14. The new seals went in ( more importantly to me the old ones came out thanks to the Leslie seal puller). Note to self, remember to heat the piston before trying to remove or install wrist pins. Used a carriage bolt some nuts a big washer , some rubber and a short spacer that was on the floor. High Tech Redneck. Too late I read to resist the urge to not to use an impact to loosen the flywheel nut, oh well , we well see. The primary compression test liked to whoop my butt. Note to self , forget the plastic for seal plates. Note to self don't try to cut 1/8 stainless with the dremel tool. Aluminum is cheap compared to the time. I still could not keep a seal on the intake. ( Original rubber seal was cut with the center out, thought I could use the reed block Duh)
fixed that , Still could not hold pressure until I sprayed the bolt I am using for a compression plug, Bubbles Galore ( no not the stripper) a nice size washer fixed that vacuum is at 5 minutes . Not sure if its ready to finish assembly. I can easily turn over the engine by the flywheel. The ring end gap set at 0.090 and the old ring and piston really looked ok to me.
I did the carb kit on the Tillotson not 8 minutes like the youtube gal more like hour and a half ( but 45 minutes was looking for one screw I thought bounced off the tray and I move the whole bench to find ( first time in 12 years buncha junk back there) turned out in was in the bowl of gas that I had the gasket and pump sheet in duh). Last photo is vacuum after 5 minutes.
l View attachment 783279 View attachment 783280 View attachment 783281l
All the adventures of rebuilding an old saw, Pioneers in general are more difficult to find parts for, some of us hoard parts for future needs, my lifelong association with them has taught me to grab them whenever they become available. Your project is coming along nicely.
Left off a zero
BUT that is what the manual says , and yes I can see its wrong
Getting closer. Disassembled the handle 3 times but got it right . I was amazed that the carb linkage hooked up sadly I pulled the choke grommet before I realized that wasn't needed. lost a half hour there. The compression ( with a drill) was about 118 PSI. I have a new piston and rings but I just wanna get it running, I may pop in the piston later.
I kept assembling the clutch wrong but back and forth to the exploded view , I think i got it, the manual didn't really cover it . I plan to finish and try to fire it tomorrow.
I kept assembling the clutch wrong but back and forth to the exploded view , I think i got it, the manual didn't really cover it . I plan to finish and try to fire it tomorrow.
HELP !!! well I am sure that I will eventually get to where I need to be but if someone can help me avoid unnecessary steps I would greatly appreciate it. Got everything back together ( much to my surprise) put about 1/4 tank of fuel in the Beauty. Pulled, pulled, Etc,etc until my pacemaker said enough already. Back to the bench removed the plug , no spark, trace the dead simple wiring, ok. Recheck the module gap, ah hah. Reset tighten screws back to pulling , since the plug had been dry put the choke on , turned off the first time she popped. and she started and died. I had read somewhere L 1 3/4 and Hi 2 1/4 . A lot more pulling , starting and dying as I leaned the Beauty . Came in found some saying the owners manual said start at 1 turn each. Reset to 1 each runs a bit better more leaning. the saw doesn't run long enough to get to adjust while running. right now I am at about 5/8 out Lo and 7/8 out Hi. only runs on fast Idle tries to die when I release the throttle ( and usually does.) It passed the primary pressure / vacuum tests. and showed about 118 psi on the secondary. intake gasket surfaces cleaned and I cut new gaskets that fit well for the reed block used the kit gasket for the reed / carb junction. . Carb kit put in with attention to the needle height , made sure the button on the diaphragm fit into the slot. Mix ix fresh 32:1 ( and the smoke proves it) with Husky oil. So before I remove the handle etc to get back to the carb ,, can anybody give me some pointers ? and what are the Hi Lo settings on a running farmsaw or P 41 ? . Its not a JOB its an ADVENTURE.
Is the 118 compression taken with the decomp in or out, that is low compression.
Being a lazy dummy beats just being a dummy. I REALLY didn't want to take Beauty back apart. Went back to try to dial Beauty in , mostly got no where and then Wham started running much better.. When it died I thought it had fuel but checked the bone dry tank and said Ah Hah. Was too rich still and started running better since fuel was not available. filled the tank and leaned the mess out of her Raised the idle. At first it would just high idle kept leaning the Lo out and got her idle ( only semi-erratically) Lo is just over 1/4 out from bottom, WOT she accelerates briskly to the top and starts 4 stroking at top end. I didn't have any wood to see if it smoothed out cuttin so I left it alone. Not perfect but SO MUCH closer to correct performance .
Yes it is low , and that is without the valve. Was obtained using a drill to turn the nut counter clockwise. Since I could turn the flywheel by hand i figured it would be low, but the specs do say 7.5:1 compression. Live and learn, get Alzheimers and forget it all. Decided that rather than take everything back apart to see if she would run like this. Mainly since this is the first time I have went past just replacing fuel lines ( and that didn't always work out) I wanted to see if the saw would still run. I have another piston but it is a two ring piston. since the original cleaned up so nicely and had proper end gap I had hopes of it working. Next time I am bored I will put the two ring in or I may see if a new ring changes anything. This is mainly therapy for me. I mean I cut 2-5 cords a year max. And cannot really justify having so many chainsaws. Taking a small engine repair course starts this month and everyone thinks that I will work on chainsaws and lawn mowers when I retire in July. I heard that the chicks dig small engine mechanics
Do you have the decomp hole blocked off? Did you clean up the cylinder bore really well?
Looks good, not scored but might have a glaze of old oil/carbon on it that won`t allow the ring to seat, clean bare metal works best.
Figured sine I used the old ring I was good. So Scotch brite ?? or do I need to get a dingle berry hone ??
Fine machine paper,280 or finer grit and then Scotchbrite to clean it well, the old ring might be out of round and need some run time to break back in, the two ring might be a better choice but one never knows til trying.
