Hope this is a typo.The ring end gap set at 0.090
The saga continues.
Pulling the flywheel ws slowed until the flywheel puller for a Mini KTM arrived. The banging on the shaft just really bothers me, so it was worth the $14. The new seals went in ( more importantly to me the old ones came out thanks to the Leslie seal puller). Note to self, remember to heat the piston before trying to remove or install wrist pins. Used a carriage bolt some nuts a big washer , some rubber and a short spacer that was on the floor. High Tech Redneck. Too late I read to resist the urge to not to use an impact to loosen the flywheel nut, oh well , we well see. The primary compression test liked to whoop my butt. Note to self , forget the plastic for seal plates. Note to self don't try to cut 1/8 stainless with the dremel tool. Aluminum is cheap compared to the time. I still could not keep a seal on the intake. ( Original rubber seal was cut with the center out, thought I could use the reed block Duh)
fixed that , Still could not hold pressure until I sprayed the bolt I am using for a compression plug, Bubbles Galore ( no not the stripper) a nice size washer fixed that vacuum is at 5 minutes . Not sure if its ready to finish assembly. I can easily turn over the engine by the flywheel. The ring end gap set at 0.090 and the old ring and piston really looked ok to me.
I did the carb kit on the Tillotson not 8 minutes like the youtube gal more like hour and a half ( but 45 minutes was looking for one screw I thought bounced off the tray and I move the whole bench to find ( first time in 12 years buncha junk back there) turned out in was in the bowl of gas that I had the gasket and pump sheet in duh). Last photo is vacuum after 5 minutes.
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Left off a zeroHope this is a typo.
BUT that is what the manual says , and yes I can see its wrongHope this is a typo.
Yes it is low , and that is without the valve. Was obtained using a drill to turn the nut counter clockwise. Since I could turn the flywheel by hand i figured it would be low, but the specs do say 7.5:1 compression. Live and learn, get Alzheimers and forget it all. Decided that rather than take everything back apart to see if she would run like this. Mainly since this is the first time I have went past just replacing fuel lines ( and that didn't always work out) I wanted to see if the saw would still run. I have another piston but it is a two ring piston. since the original cleaned up so nicely and had proper end gap I had hopes of it working. Next time I am bored I will put the two ring in or I may see if a new ring changes anything. This is mainly therapy for me. I mean I cut 2-5 cords a year max. And cannot really justify having so many chainsaws. Taking a small engine repair course starts this month and everyone thinks that I will work on chainsaws and lawn mowers when I retire in July. I heard that the chicks dig small engine mechanicsIs the 118 compression taken with the decomp in or out, that is low compression.
Figured sine I used the old ring I was good. So Scotch brite ?? or do I need to get a dingle berry hone ??Looks good, not scored but might have a glaze of old oil/carbon on it that won`t allow the ring to seat, clean bare metal works best.
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