Piston Stops

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Benjamin S Pendleton

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Jan 31, 2018
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Location
Yuma, AZ
Can someone tell me the stihl part numbers for the piston stops that fit the cmr6h plug hole and the bpmr6a plug hole. I tried searching the forums but came up empty.
 
Those Stihl piston stops are terrible, their weak plastic rubbish. The aluminium screw in type stops are much better.

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In the picture below, the middle two items are plastic piston stops that I purchased but no longer use. I've found that they don't work on all cylinders. At the top is my one size fits all knotted rope. Get your piston up enough so it is just past the exhaust port, then feed the loop end into the spark plug hole. It will usually go in close to the knot. Then you have a soft but incompressible piston stop. The string on the bottom is another homemade tool for looping around rubber manifolds and pulling them through the handle hole.1526773061193_IMG_20180519_183605_470.jpg
 
I work on saws almost daily, have never used a piston stop. What's the need?

Clutch comes off and goes back on fine with impact gun or a sharp tap with a brass drift and hammer.
 
No thank you. Not accurate enough. For a clutch i agree, as it is self tightening.

For a flywheel, esp for the newer cast in key types, thats a recipe for a sheared key.

Nah. Pretty well have an idea what the proper torque is, just from experience. It's not ultra critical either.
 
Holy ****. I kinda screwd up and took crank off on fly wheel side with my impact. On tear down i found this.
View attachment 653307 View attachment 653308

Okay ill say it brad was right. Ill be looking into meteor 064 pop up now instead of the golf.
This saws barrely ran. It was a ticking time bomb mabe it cracked because i messaged it with a carbide burr maybe it cracked because its a golf piston.
I will salvage the carbar rings.
Im currently splitting cases. I have to replace the crank and i guess get another set of seals unless i feel these ones survive tge tear down heck maybe ill just run a 046 piston. But man i really wanted to do the 064 pop up. Or maybe a 272.
Crank, bearings, piston and give it another go
This kinda experience is why I don’t use impacts on crankshafts.:cool:
 
That's from a piston stop.
I agree, but it’s also from an impact. Takes a little more effort to break it off while hand tightening, too easy to do with an impact. I’m sure that over time, you can get a feel for the torque required for tightening and loosening with the impact, it’s also easy to ruin a project by being in a hurry.:cool:
 
This kinda experience is why I don’t use impacts on crankshafts.:cool:

I always use an impact to remove clutch and flywheel, leaving the spark plug in tight (obviously no piston stop) so the compression acts as a buffer to the forces involved. Installation is another story: torque wrench and rope piston stop. In fact, I torque all critical bolts, such as crankcase, ignition module, muffler. Sort of a warm fuzzy feeling from removing another source of operator error.
 

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