Please Help!! Silver Maple

[stevezmom]

I have a large Siver Maple in the back yard. It has 4 trunks. Two of the trunks are filling in with beautiful large leaves. The other two have tiny shriveled up leaves that are falling off. The tree has been through alot in the last 6 months:

-Complete landscaping
-Arborist "Structural Trim"
-Arborist sprayed for ?? (I would know the name if I seen it but I believe it was a fungus)
-Massive aphid infestation

The "Professional" Lanscaper had to trench for sprinklers, drains etc. He told me (after the fact) that he used a chainsaw to get through some of the roots.

As for the aphids I sprayed an insecticide I got from ACE Hardware through a garden hose. I was told it was mild. I read you could put it on fruits and vegetables so I went for it. Aphids as far as I can see are mostly gone. I had a ton of black droppings (I believe to be "Sooty Mold") now there is only 1 or 2.

Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated I DONT WANT TO LOSE THIS TREE!!!!!

Here are a few Pictures...

 

[masterarbor]

it could definitely be construction damage. silver maples are hardy, so rapid decline like this is unusual. i'm curious to see what the others say. good luck!
kevin

 

[Dadatwins]

You need to get a professional arborist on site to determine the amount of root damage that the 'professional' did to the root system of the tree. Hard to tell what is going on from pics but looks like construction damage.

 

[Old Monkey]

In terms of pruning it looks like a light prune, so I do not think that has anything to do with the decline. Root cutting can have that sort of effect but it would have to be severe. Did anyone use the term "verticilium wilt?" That's the usual culprit in my part of the world. Take pictures of the bark around the base of the tree. Is any of that bark missing or damaged?

 

[stevezmom]

In terms of pruning it looks like a light prune, so I do not think that has anything to do with the decline. Root cutting can have that sort of effect but it would have to be severe. Did anyone use the term "verticilium wilt?" That's the usual culprit in my part of the world. Take pictures of the bark around the base of the tree. Is any of that bark missing or damaged?

As a matter of fact The arborist did mention verticilium wilt. He spayed somethin to to help stop the spread I believe. I will post a pic of what I believe he said was verticilium wilt. There is some bark missing on one of the main limbs over the yard I will post that pic as well.

I have been all over town today trying to get references for arborists. Funny how no one is willing to drop any names. I was also looking for some deep root feeding equipment and organic fertilizer low in N but no luck. I really dont want to do anything until I can get a professional out but wanted a back up plan in case I couldn't get someone out here soon. Thank you for the feedback. Any tips on questions to ask the arborists?

Does this look like verticilium wilt?

Missing bark....

 

[Dadatwins]

Here is a good descrption of Verticillum wilt, not much treatment available so I m not sure what you were sold????
http://www.treesforyou.org/Planting/TreeCare/Healthy/vertwilt.htm
You can find a certified arborist at this site http://www.treesaregood.com/
It would be my guess that the extensive landscaping that was done around the base of the tree might
be part of the cause of the problem. Not your fault of course, but most landscapers are not tree people and vise-versa.

 

[Old Monkey]

I don't know of any sprays to prevent the spread of verticilium wilt. When you cut branches you can see a green stain in the cambium or outer layer of the wood. If it is verticilium wilt, chemical damage, or excessive root damage, it started in the roots on that side of the tree and spread upwards. Good luck with your tree.

As for the last picture, that looks like calloused over sun scald to me. Maple's are very susceptible to sun scald and if they get over pruned they get sun damage on the south facing side of their branches. If it is not too bad and if the tree is healthy it can callous over the wound. That picture tells me that it has been a healthy tree in the past to have healed that much damage.

 

[kruege84]

...most landscapers are not tree people and vise-versa.

Ain't that the truth....

Most of the guys I work with have little knowledge of proper arboriculture techniques and woody plant physiology. (Listen to me talk about it like I'm a pro... HA!) A lot of us are used to seeing these trees come in with tiny little root balls. I think this adds to their underestimation of the importance of a healthy root system in a mature tree.

From a landscaper's perspective, (it kills me to say it ) get a certified arborist on site to inspect the tree in person. My first thought was construction damage, but I wouldn't expect the tree to decline this much in this short period of time. Unless he really hacked away those roots.... In any case, it sounds like the tree has been through quite a bit of stress recently. It is not surprising that there is some dieback. But two of the four main branches seems a bit extreme and could be a signal of a larger problem.

And I'm not very knowledgable on verticilium wilt, but when I first saw that branch with the missing bark I thought 'sun scald'.

Good luck with the tree!

 

[stevezmom]

Thanks for the replies. Now I have to look up "sun scald". We just had 3 very sunny days in a row. The first of the season. Is that damage from those 3 days? Those branches have no protection from the sun as of now. It was only in the mid 80's. The 110's are just around the corner. I hope we can nurse this thing back to health quickly! I did notice 1 cluster of avg sized leaves on one of the sickly limbs, I am not giving up on it yet!

 

[kruege84]

Thanks for the replies. Now I have to look up "sun scald". We just had 3 very sunny days in a row. The first of the season. Is that damage from those 3 days? Those branches have no protection from the sun as of now. It was only in the mid 80's. The 110's are just around the corner. I hope we can nurse this thing back to health quickly! I did notice 1 cluster of avg sized leaves on one of the sickly limbs, I am not giving up on it yet!

No, that kind of damage won't occur in three days. It takes a fair amount of time. Sun scald is fairly common on maples where the bark is thin. It is also very common on parking lot trees, as they are often out in the open and exposed to heat radiating from the pavement. If that branch is indeed not well shaded, and 110 degree days are not uncommon, sun scald is the most likely culprit.

 

[Thillmaine]

Sun Scald

Sun scald is not really an issue onm silver maples...Bark is much thicker then sugars, which are usually the mosty suspectible to sunscald. I hammer (prune) red maples with great results, no susnscald at all. This is in the northeast, not sure about california, but sunscald is certainly not a problem on any maple except the Sugar around here. Also, did the two leaders affected start to die back gradually, as in one branch at a time. Usually you see verticillium wilt affecting individual branches before entire leaders. During the growing season you will see one random branch just die. Then others will start to die. Called flagging, you would recongnize it if you observed your tree often. It could possibly be root damage as well if it was on that side of the tree (construction) Also I am not sur eabout what sor tof herbicides you use, but to me looks very indicative of herbicide damage. Maybe a bit much 2-4D on the lawn. Do the leaves on the damaged side twist at all? Atrophy ( leaf and branch twisting) can be a side effect of herbicide damage.
On another note , the "arborist" who pruned your tree "structurally", didnt seem to prune much at all. Silver maples are weak wooded and have poor branch attachment, they need cables and heavy pruning almost always. Looks like he did the ol' crown raise and thin some suckers out. Not structural pruning by any means. Need to work the ends where the leverage is and make some bigger cuts to get weight out. Escpecially if it is over a house/shed/.garge etc...

 

[kruege84]

Sun scald is not really an issue onm silver maples...Bark is much thicker then sugars, which are usually the mosty suspectible to sunscald. I hammer (prune) red maples with great results, no susnscald at all. This is in the northeast, not sure about california, but sunscald is certainly not a problem on any maple except the Sugar around here.

People around here started planting a lot more red maples when EAB arrived. It's unfortunate because ash was a perfect street tree. Anyways, I see red and silver maples all the time here in southeast michigan suffering from bad cases of sun scald.

 

[Old Monkey]

Silver maples here are susceptible to sun scald and so are the norway maples. I have not lived here long enough to tell if the damage occurs in the cold winter months or in the summer. I suspect it happens here more in the winter because of the freezing temps. Most places in California the damage would have to be in the summer.

 

[stevezmom]

Maybe a bit much 2-4D on the lawn. Do the leaves on the damaged side twist at all?

What is 2-4D? We have only used "Scotts Starter Fertilizer" once, about 4 or 5 weeks ago. The sod is new. The leaves dont twist as far as I can tell but they curl under as you can see in the pictures.

 

[Ed Roland]

Stevesmom, what was the arborist hoping to control with the chemical application?

Was a gas powered tiller involved in creating those pretty beds? Roots were sacrificed for the irrigation. The portion of canopy the root facilitated will die back accordingly. Destroy the roots houseside and that portion of canopy flames out.

Prepare to lose it or prepare to spend some $$$$.

If $ is no object call your local Bartlett Tree Experts. They have a patented procedure called "root invigoration". Invented by Dr. Tom Smiley, soil scientist. They can send a rep out to see if your tree is a good candidate. There will, no doubt, be some deadwood pruning involved as well. A soil test will likely be gathered to discover whats going on down there. The analysis will establish a potential hydrogen (ph) value. This can be altered somewat either up, dolomitic lime/calcitic lime or down with sulfur. I would think fertility issues would be adjusted with the exception of nitrogen. It is unwise to make an extremely stressed tree flush new growth -on your terms.

I would call out a certified 'plant health care specialist' or a board certified 'master arborist'.

In the mean time: monitor this plant for opportunistic pest infestations. Being stressed it can not fend for itself in the way healthy plants can.

Good luck, and let us know what the spray treatment was for. Trunk spray to prevent opportunistic borers??

 

[stevezmom]

Stevesmom, what was the arborist hoping to control with the chemical application?

Was a gas powered tiller involved in creating those pretty beds?

I could have sworn he sprayed to help reduce the spread of V. Wilt. I have learned from the forums there is no such spray so either I misunderstood (very likely) or I have free $$ tattoo'ed on my forehead. There was no tiller used as a matter of fact no one is sure those plants will even make it because of all the tree roots. They are not planted very deep. They did have a bobcat all over the yard for the trenches and whatnot.

 

[treeseer]

They did have a bobcat all over the yard for the trenches and whatnot.

This reminds me of a red maple that was irrigated by trenching 360 around it. Now there is overall decline and disease. Whoever specced the trenching's got some splainin to do.