Polan 2150 How to remove old piston

[s sidewall]

https://www.lowes.com/pd/craftsman-...MI17Hc3pya4wIVU4ezCh3ORAzGEAQYASABEgJPw_D_BwE
Look at this.

Steve Sidwell

 

[s sidewall]

Oh good god, what have I unleashed? Yes it seemed to simple to be true to disassemble. Yes I believe the whole dang engine is loose after taking the 4 cylinder bolts out. What the heck do I do now aside from getting the wrist pin out. I bought some ultra copper high temp rtv.

LOL, welcome to working on chainsaws. 4 bolts hold the complete engine in the frame, 4 other bolts hold the engine halves together.

Steve Sidwell

 

[Michael Kent]

Sounds like a very poor design, seals that just fall out, but yet needs to be tight as a drum, how the H did it ever run before? Maybe this seal is from the clamshell case? Why would I need to seal anything more than the clyinder back down to the block with new RTV? The plastic shell is just a shell covering the engine, and the engine is its own sealed component, right?

 

[s sidewall]

Ya need to work on a Husqvarna 240e, this Poulan would seem like a walk in the park, that Husqvarna will make you pull out your hair and throw it out in the highway for someone to finish killing it.

Steve Sidwell

 

[s sidewall]

The lower half, is aluminum, that is the lower crankcase.

Steve Sidwell

 

[Michael Kent]

Well what the “F”, I need to take better look at this brain-child of a desighn under daylight. I think I might be beginning to learn now why people just throw these saws away! ********

 

[Michael Kent]

I’ve worked on small mopeds and dirt bike engines before, you unbolt the cylinder, pull it off, attach new piston and rings and bolt cylinder/head back down. Job done!

 

[s sidewall]

Well I was wrong, only 4 bolt hole the lower crankcase and upper together and it also holes it into the case, stupid design. That seal, inspect both of the crank bearing for any missing seal.

Steve Sidwell

 

[Michael Kent]

Well the 4 bolts on bottom of the outside bottom shell released the clinder as well as the bottom of engine from the plastic shell case. Not sure what you mean about the seals. I didnt crack any engine cases apart, just pulled the cyinder up off of the main rest of the engine case/ block which is its own whole seperate 2nd piece. Am I missing something?

 

[s sidewall]

Most folks don't spend much on these saws. I'll replace fuel system parts, repair the carbs, mod the muffler and run them. My old 06' wild thing runs good but if it dies tomorrow, I've gotten my money out of it. Of course that would be fuel lines, primer and air filter, saw was free.

Steve Sidwell

 

[s sidewall]

Bottom of your saws engine, lower crankcase.

Steve Sidwell

 

[s sidewall]

Crankshaft bear with seal made onto it.

Steve Sidwell

 

[s sidewall]

If you had a mag case saw, you can pull only the the cylinder off the crankcase assy. by remove 4 bolt from the top. But, to pull the crankshaft or bearings, complete saw disassembly.

Steve Sidwell

 

[Michael Kent]

Good lord, so when I loosened the 4 bolts on the outside bottom of the outside plastic case, not only did it loosen the clinder, but it also loosened/cracked loose the bottom half of the engine case from the main engine block, as well as entire engine mount to the bottom plastic shell? Why the hell wouldnt a manufacturer build a tubular metal frame with engine mount plate, then have the outside plastic shell/case attach to the tubular frame with embedded nuts welded in. So they bolt a engine block, cylinder and lower crank case cover together through the plastic outside shell to hold it all together? If this is true, Wow! No wonder why people throw these these poorly designed “inexpensive” saws in the trash. I got this saw free from my father, I thought the $25 investment would be well worth fixing it, now I’m wondering if I didnt just open a very smelly rotton can of worms that now cant be closed back up easily ?

 

[s sidewall]

Just pull the clutch assy off and oil pump off, flywheel and what little stuff that may be in the way and pull the crankshaft and the bottom half off. These clamshell engine designed saws have been around for awhile. Husqvarna, Stihl, Jon reds, Poulan, McCullough, Echo and a few others I may have missed all have made these types of engines in one form or another. I've got a Mac that the oil tank is the lower half of the crankcase, and its a mag case saw. To get a full crankcase saw, either you would have to buy an older saw or a new pro saw. But dont get me wrong, they are still good saws, easier to pull crankshaft and bearings than splitting a full case mag saw, where you have to completely disassemble the complete saw.

Steve Sidwell

 

[Jasonrkba]

Great saw to learn on. If you screw it up no biggie. There is a million of that bad design still out there cutting wood. Spend some time watching some YouTube videos. It's like most things in life, it's difficult until your done. If you had to do it again you'd fly right through it. Just don't get in a hurry and you will do fine. I use a small bent pick on the circlip. If you're afraid of loosing it, place the saw inside a box first. Use a heat gun on the Piston to remove the wrist pin.

 

[Jasonrkba]

And I hate those bearings with the seal on them.

 

[Wood Doctor]

The first and last time I changed the piston and cylinder on a Poulan Wild Thing I made one mistake. I tightened the new assembly into place and heard a crack as it broke in half. I was being very careful, but it didn't matter. I concluded that these saws were designed not to be fixed. If you get 50 hours out of them, it's land fill time. That's also true for Poulan leaf blowers. When their engine comprssion is gone, they are gone.

 

[JP56]

Yes sir this is me, I ordered the top end kit, very happy. Just trying to figure out how to grab the clip?

Try these, harbor freight:

 

[s sidewall]

Don't care much for those, I've had the pick turn in the handle.

Steve Sidwell