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Another saw builder pi$$ing match ended with hugs:hmm3grin2orange:. That's what I love about this place. :msp_thumbsup:
 
tell ya what. i'll show some of my out of the norm work if you show me something you did that no one else has.

ill be back in a few min with my pics

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lol. here are some pics.
i'm not mad, i don't have an attitude problem, i'm just having fun.

I wouldn't call those pictures of your work something that no one else has done, looks like a typical race saw build :hmm3grin2orange:

Did the epoxied studs work with the intake block? I've seen numerous ways of bolting a block on and they all look like a PITA to do. I've welded all the ones I've done so far and wouldn't do it any other way...unless you machine to much of the weld off :)
 
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Since we are all sharing now I'll post something I did that I think is a little out of the norm. I did this on my build off 371/2, it probably would have placed better if I would have had time to break it in before it went of to battle. Sorry if you've seen it before.

Ever wanted to have more transfer timing on a 371/2 and keep the entrance nice and flat?

Not the best welding, the old sine wave tig welder's arc likes to jump around a lot in tight places.
IMG_0804.jpg


Blended in and blasted so it's not obvious.
IMG_0849.jpg
 
I've seen TM's chamber tool. In fact, it was still on his old threads up until recently. It's really nothing to get all in a huff about fella's. There's no way it cuts as true as doing it the old fashioned way...

At least in my opinion.
 
This is how I weld pistons to make a pop up so you don't have to cut the base. I make these blocks that fit the piston slide them in and clamp them snug and weld away. It keeps the piston from wanting to warp. The bad thing is I have to make one for each piston size.

fixture001.jpg


weldedpiston093.jpg
 
I've welded a couple up Gink.

This one is the latest...

5e0fb45e.jpg


No jig, just weld for a couple seconds, and quench. I measured in several different locations prior to welding, and found no change afterwards. It's currently chugging away in a ms390.

I am using a miller 252 and an aluminum spool gun.

Here is the first one I did. Can u guess the piston Gink? :)

80a6bcea.jpg
 
I've welded a couple up Gink.

This one is the latest...

No jig, just weld for a couple seconds, and quench. I measured in several different locations prior to welding, and found no change afterwards. It's currently chugging away in a ms390.

I am using a miller 252 and an aluminum spool gun.

Here is the first one I did. Can u guess the piston Gink? :)


The ones I tried to Tig weld without anything to hold it in place warped miserable, they wouldn't even fit back in the bore! Maybe because you are using a spool gun where it is point and go you don't overheat the piston and can get in and out where with TIG welding it you pretty much go as fast as a turtle while driving all kinds of heat into the piston? Doesn't the spool gun make a mess trying to weld that small of a area? I'd like to see what it looks like after welding one.


If I had to guess I'd say it is a P5000 piston!
 
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The ones I tried to Tig weld without anything to hold it in place warped miserable! Maybe because you are using a spool gun where it is point and go you don't overheat the piston and can get in and out where with TIG welding it you pretty much go as fast as a turtle while driving all kinds of heat into the piston? Doesn't the spool gun make a mess trying to weld that small of a area? I'd like to see what it looks like after welding one.


If I had to guess I'd say it is a P5000 piston!

Nah, no mess at all. As long as the feed rate and amperage are right, it looks just like a mug weld. I'll look thru my pics and see if I have an after welded pic....

And yes, ur spot on on the slug ;)
 
i hate windows xp and those dang pop ups that want you to buy something:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin::biggrin::biggrin::biggrin: sorry i just couldn't resist
 
I've seen TM's chamber tool. In fact, it was still on his old threads up until recently. It's really nothing to get all in a huff about fella's. There's no way it cuts as true as doing it the old fashioned way...

At least in my opinion.

That's why I would have it done on a lathe if I were going to cut the squish band. David did one years ago in a build-off thread using emery cloth glued on top of an old piston and that turned out well for a low-buck hillbilly build-off. But cutting significant material out of there requires real precision.
 
Are these your tools or some other dudes?

squishbandtoola.jpg


squishbandtoolb.jpg

Yes that looks like it.

I've wondered what would happen when you stop cutting, will you end up with a ridg. And how do you accurately remove a specific amount of material? I'm guessing an even cut would be very dependant on pressure applied to the tool. But those are all just guess's based on my thoughts.
 
Yes that looks like it.

I've wondered what would happen when you stop cutting, will you end up with a ridg. And how do you accurately remove a specific amount of material? I'm guessing an even cut would be very dependant on pressure applied to the tool. But those are all just guess's based on my thoughts.

I'm thinking there is some ridge, hence he finished with the sandpaper mandrel, but maybe not?

Obviously his system works, as he builds some really fast saws.

His design is different than I imagined. . . I pictured something like how a forstner bit cuts.

A guy could control depth of cut if you had an adjustable screw in the center that limited bite.
 
dolmar 7900

With the chamber being off set in a dolmar instead of centered like husqvarna or stihl.cuting squish ban makes more sence. Also I have been wanting ask if anyone has ever gas ported a chainsaw piston,either vertical or horsonal. this helps in sealing up the cylinder witch would ade in compression.just one of my brain cramps.:msp_confused:Steve
 

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