porta wrap attachment ????????

[rahtreelimbs]

For those of you who use a PORTA WRAP, how do you attach it to the base of the tree. I use ( I can't take credit for this method, I coped it from a fellow climber ) a piece of 25 ft. double braid and tie clove hitch backed by 3 half hitches. Attach the PORTA WRAP to both wraps with a ' biner. The nice thing about this is that you can rotate the PORTA WRAP around the tree.

 

[Treeman14]

Cow Hitch on smaller trees

Timber Hitch on big trees

 

[treeclimber165]

I'd think a 3/4" whoopie sling would be the way to go. I use one for attaching a big lowering block when roping BIG wood. Page 27 in last year's Sherrill catalogue. (Don't have the new one yet!)

 

[rbtree]

i use a 3-12 foot whoopie, and plan to make a 3-20 footer. A whoopie is also a good choice for block attachment in the tree, as it is easy to loosen and slide down to the next cut. 12 Strand hollow braid polyester is a snap to splice and stronger than double braid.

Of course it helps to have a cheap local supplier!!

:Monkey:

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

I got three sizes of stable brade single eye slings I use for PW and blocks. I usualy use a cow to, girth hitch the PW onto the eye. tie low so it is easy to snug all the slack & slop out if needed.

If I'm doing a timber hitch I will take a bight and twist it many times and pass the eye through it and bine the PW on.

 

[X-man]

Clock Hitch is the best IMHO! Cow Hitch works well too.
The Clock Hitch or Rock Solid Johnson Hitch as Blair refers to it allows you to keep the P.A.W. snug against the tree, which makes loading/lowering a whole lot easier. The Clock also seems stronger, seeing as your loading two lines, instead of a single eye spliced sling. Clock also lets your P.A.W. be slid to one side of the tree or the other, but only when not loaded. I think Glenn Riggs jr. invented it. The only downfall I see is you need a long sling that can be doubled-up around the trunk base, same thing for a Cow Hitch.

Rigging it down!
X-man

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

And I've never nicked a bull while in the tree making a cut either

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

X-man,
Could you show me a picture of the clock hicth? I heard it discribed, but I couldn't figure out how to tie it.

 

[Rob Murphy]

Same here ....thanks in advance Xman

 

[Rob Murphy]

Originally posted by rbtree
i use a 3-12 foot whoopie, and plan to make a 3-20 footer. A whoopie is also a good choice for block attachment in the tree, as it is easy to loosen and slide down to the next cut. 12 Strand hollow braid polyester is a snap to splice and stronger than double braid.

Of course it helps to have a cheap local supplier!!

:Monkey:

We looked at the whoopie'S but the safe working load ratings seemed to low....did we miss something????

 

[treeclimber165]

Sherrill's lists SWL at 3,280 lbs. Seems plenty to me. I assume that's for the 3/4" whoopie sling.

 

[Nickrosis]

Here at the UWSP-SSA labs...

j/k... We took two whoopie (ahem, "adjustable" to be politically correct) slings to put our Port-a-Wrap on this <i>Quercus ellipsoidalis</i> for deadwooding. The big sling was at somebody's house...

Since making the slings is so easy, practically everyone has their own of different sizes. Before you start, though, make sure you pick enough strands for the overlap. Some of the slings we've seen seem to have an unusually short section and may slip in practice. Production splicing often lags in staying current with trends, so I climb on my own splices.

Nickrosis
<br>
<img src="http://www.uwsp.edu/stuorg/ssa/champ.jpg">

 

[rbtree]

My old whoopie, purchased years ago, from sherril, is 7/8th inch. I just bought a ~31 foot length of 3/4. I realized I wanted a longer sling than that will make, around 12.5 feet after splice, backsplice and handcuff part, so I'll get a 45 foot length of 7/8. Tht will cost me about $30, thanks to my wholesale connection. A finished one of that size would run close to $100. I could use some Cobra antifriction hose, or comparable material, like some of the finished units, but judging by the minimal wear on my old one, may not bother. I also made a 3-8 footer out of 5/8, a good size for in the tree use for wood under 500 pounds or so.

Hollow braid is a breeze to splice, but needs lockstitching just like all other braided splices.

Left the new (to us) Hobbs LD at home yesterday, and tried to lift a 25 foot piece of western red cedar, maybe 800 pounds, with my chipper winch, instead of the truck. Oops!!! Not a good choice, she just ain't that strong. had to fuss around for a half hour with prussic attached backup, then stuck the prussic, etc etc. But we got the log swung over the fence and laid out, safe but flustered. I knew better than to try it too....live and learn. Winch is a great asset, just not that striong, and it bleeds off holding popere in a few seconds. I'll have to ask Bandit if it is functioning properly.

nick, can you repost your text, the photo covered some of it up.

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

We have used Spanset slings in 3',6',12' lenghts, then 2-5' whoopie for adjustability inside the 3' range in between sizes. The Spanset slings are stronger than the Whoopie; so we schedule them to take the load first. We also, pass the Porta-wrap through the eye of the choking part of Whoopie, draw down Whoopie till it pulls at 'T' on Pota-Wrap; then use Porta-Wrap to lever eye down Porta-Wrap(1); to its base. By having it so tight; it is less likely to slip, fall very far against someones leg; and provides the most reach for 5/1 pre-tensioning. Sometimes on removals we place the sling set up in mini-humboldt knotches around the base like marl's to keep it in place low on tree; especially on root flares.

That is how we have dealt with it and having it tight and secure and why. But that dang 20' Whoopie sure sounds good to me!

 

[X-man]

Guys,


Here is a pic of the Clock Htch! The 9/16" Yellow line represents the back of it. to show you how it's tied, and the 3/4" Orange shows the front or working area!
Start at the backside of where you want to rig. Bring the sling around the tree and back through the eye. Then run the existing line coming out of the eye back around the tree. Now all you need to terminate it is a couple half hitches in the bight that goes through the eye, not through the eye. Clip in to both parts of line at the front and your ready to rig bombproof style! You can also rig the P.A.W. directly to the tree/Clock Hitch, but then you can only lower off one side. The Pic shows my personal preference with the steel 'biner which gives better results. If you guys want a better/closer pic of the termination, I can do that!

Hope this helped,

X-man

 

[Rob Murphy]

If you guys want a better/closer pic of the termination, I can do that!

Hope this helped,

X-man



Yes please......thanks mate

 

[seanlarkin]

Originally posted by Nickrosis
Production splicing often lags in staying current with trends....

Our splicers are in tune with the latest trends and techniques. If you're able to get to the ISA show, our splicing manager, Gary Brantley will be there, as well as splicing master, Brion Toss. IF you stop by our booth, have a chat with either of them.
-Sean

 

[o0_TreeMan_0o]

use a ratchet Cinch Strap, like you use to secure logs on a truck. I put a large D ring from an old saddle on the strap. It will fit any size tree and stays put! 10,000 lbs! Fast to put on and off the tree too!

 

[treeclimber165]

Tim, I think you have the perfect answer! And the ratchet strap can also be used for securing the overloaded logs on the wood truck, too!
I had considered using one of those 2" wide heavy-duty ratchet straps once, but forgot about it before I ever got around to buying one. Thanks for reminding me!