Portable Inverter Generator to Power Deep Submersible Well Pump

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One of the big problems with the inverter type of generator is that when the electric pump motor goes online....that the generator is running in slow mode and has no time to rev up to meet the surge load current demand.

It would be quite useful to have the pump and generator be intelligently integrated via electronic control to overcome this problem. Battery storage feeding an inverter could be used in an intelligent system to provide high current ability but the inverter would have to have a high enough capacity. An inverter has a very quick response but the internal combustion engine driving the system does not.

How many watts is a submersible pump?​

Survival AppliancesRated WattsSurge Watts
How Much Electricity Do You Need to Produce?
Sump Pump8002000
Water Pump (1 HP)19005700
Water Pump (2 HP)25007500
 
A 1hp deep well pump pulls about 7 amps, and about 30 amps at start up.(5 to 10 seconds) And I would guess should be on a 20 amp breaker. 220 volts ac. Should be just over 1500 watts running. Any decent gen rated at 5kw (running) can easily handle that load, with a few other loads on it.
 
I called my well driller and they still had my info from the well they drilled 13 years ago! My pump is 1 hp, 230 V and is a Goulds 7GS10422. Attached is a pic of the electrical feed running from the breaker box into the pump control from the left and then the 3 wire coming out of the right side of the control. The 3 wire then runs to the pump itself. I'm not sure how much this info changes anything and I appreciate the input. I'm kind of leaning toward a dual fuel unit. I have been able to find ethanol-free 90 octane gas locally (tired of replacing carburetors on everything I own), but it would still have a shelf life of may be a year or so? Five tanks of propane should keep the lights on for a while.
I'm wondering if I can do something like this goober:
IMG_7438.JPG
 
KJ, that would do the trick. I'm running a Predator on my wood splitter after going through two Kohlers in 3 years. So far, the thing starts on the first pull and runs like a champ. Someone else had mentioned the big Honda. I searched nationwide for a Honda Engine for my splitter (I think it was the GX200) but the only one I found, the guy wouldn't ship it because he was afraid it would arrive damaged. I was in touch with several local small engine shops and they couldn't get one either.
 
FINAL VERDICT: After more research and speaking with a contractor, I just ordered the Westinghouse WGen9500DF (non-inverter generator). It will be here next week. The contractor I spoke with says he can power a good part of his 2500sf home with a Coleman gas-powered portable generator with a surge rating of just 6250 watts, including his well pump! He talked about setting up some type of subpanel for essential appliances and lighting but I am taking a serious look at the Generlink product which installs between the meter and base. Seems to be pretty "plug-and-play" without a lot of rewiring, breakers, boxes, etc. Before starting the generator, it looks like I would just have to go to the main breaker panel and turn off any non-essentials and leave on "what's important." Or I guess, shut off the majority of circuits and then turn on those deemed necessary as I keep an eye on the load on the generator. Just curious, is anyone familiar with Generlink? From what I can see online, their products are approved by my electrical utility provider, PPL.
 
FINAL VERDICT: After more research and speaking with a contractor, I just ordered the Westinghouse WGen9500DF (non-inverter generator). It will be here next week. The contractor I spoke with says he can power a good part of his 2500sf home with a Coleman gas-powered portable generator with a surge rating of just 6250 watts, including his well pump! He talked about setting up some type of subpanel for essential appliances and lighting but I am taking a serious look at the Generlink product which installs between the meter and base. Seems to be pretty "plug-and-play" without a lot of rewiring, breakers, boxes, etc. Before starting the generator, it looks like I would just have to go to the main breaker panel and turn off any non-essentials and leave on "what's important." Or I guess, shut off the majority of circuits and then turn on those deemed necessary as I keep an eye on the load on the generator. Just curious, is anyone familiar with Generlink? From what I can see online, their products are approved by my electrical utility provider, PPL.
Sounds like the way to go. 9500 watts will supply just about all your needs. Keep in mind that things like hot water heaters, electric cooking stoves, toasters, microwaves and hair dryers are huge draws on your power supply. Most portable heaters are in the 1500 watt range. Our setup is similar to what you will be running, but we have a lot of household needs such as cooking, hot water and auxiliary heat that are propane, so we don't do without much when the power is out. Keep us updated on your setup. Cheers.
 
Grizz, thanks again. I did end up ordering the Generlink with a 14-50 sixty foot cable. I measured from my meter to where I think the generator will be situated in a worst-case scenario (thinking 3 feet of snow here) and 40 feet wasn't quite cutting it so I had to go with a 60 foot cable. Generlink is currently working on a five week backlog so hopefully it will be here and I can get an electrician to install it before the November windstorms arrive. We were without power for 50 hours when Sandy rolled through a few years back. While I realize this isn't exactly a whole house generator with an automatic switch, if the power goes out I won't exactly be roughing it either. I can cycle the big draw devices on and off as needed. From the videos I've seen online, this generator should run everything at least part-time. I saw guys running deep well water pumps, heat pumps, water heaters, and the usual appliances. I took a good look at the inverter generators just for the "sensitive electronics" issue, if there is one. I already have my home theater on a good surge protector and I think I will buy better ones for my computers. The laptops seem to be mentioned as "sensitive," but I'm not seeing it so much with the desktops. Maybe that's because I'm the only guy still running a desktop. Once I get everything up and running I will post some photos or video and an updated report. With the generator,Generlink transfer switch and cable and shipping, I'm going to have about $2000 in the whole shooting match. Installing the Generlink should take an electrician about 15 minutes, so hopefully no big deal there.
As always, thanks to all for the input and hopefully from my experience, I can help someone else someday.
 
"Sensitive" as far as your electronics goes relates to the devices inability to tolerate either the high frequency switching harmonics caused by the inverter type generators, or the voltage irregularities caused by load type & variation.
This comes down to a combination of generator design, type of loading, & the design of the electronics.
Devices that process frequencies like computers & A/V equipment will be affected more/less depending on how well the inverter/generator limits HF noise & their own filtration circuits (generally more expensive stuff has better circuitry, but not always).
Other significantly inductive/capacitive loads (AC motors, old fluro lights, traditional welders, etc) on the same circuit will cause spikes & dips in voltage along with power factor variations that can effect other equipment (frequently blown incandescent light bulbs can be an indication of this).
In short, it's more about your situation as a whole.
 
Gold standard for portable generators is Honda eu7000.
Not entirely sure that's true but Honda has a solid reputation. We have this model but have not had a need to use it much as yet, which is good too. There are some pluses. And one surprise, as I did not due my research enough.
-The plus is it is an inverter; it does have Eco Mode (I think it's called) or idle down to match usage, it is fuel injected so no carburetor, it's pretty heavy, has two wheels and handlebar handles, and it is quiet when idled down, and not bad on full draw.
-The surprise. It has a 30 amp breaker, and I assumed it put out 30 amps, until I read the manual. 22.8 which was a huge disappointment after spending over 4k. As explained to me later, breakers jump from 20 to 30 amps. As it puts out more than 20 amps it requires a 30 amp breaker. Another note, if not surprise, is that the unit should be protected from the weather when running. We will need to make something to cover it, big enough to stand under to fuel it as well.
We found one at a John Deere dealership, somewhat higher prices but in stock and available. Two weeks ago we had a manual transfer switch installed.
 
The unit will put out 27 amps and
More. Hondas are known for putting out more than they are rated for. Actually running my house on one right now. I have seen these units with over 8k hours on them and still running. IMHO they are the standard for inverter gens. Cj
 
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