Ported 026 Squish Check

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I was simply suggesting that you're experience may vary from mine since the conditions are different and atypical.

But, since we're on the topic, a proper squishband taper is important. Without it, and without proper squish clearance, combustion is lazy and inefficient. Here's a little technical reading for you guys. Section 4.1 is most relevant to this discussion.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...x-ISIaSSR7pXzbNDQ&sig2=Pd_acxfFKndYgaTzEjZwRA
 
Guys I was just curious as to why the squish band would be angled, trying to get anything stirred up wasn't my intention...I just didn't understand the reasoning behind the tapered squish band is all.
 
I've always cut them flat but I'm probably wrong, there was that one time I was. Lol
 
Guys I was just curious as to why the squish band would be angled, trying to get anything stirred up wasn't my intention...I just didn't understand the reasoning behind the tapered squish band is all.

Why in the world would having a discussion about these things cause anything to be stirred up?
 
Why in the world would having a discussion about these things cause anything to be stirred up?

We all have different ways to do things. Without discussion, how will any of us understand the why in another person's methods?

And I agree 100%, I really enjoy the discussions about things like this. I just wanted to let everyone know I wasn't trying to ruffle anyone's feathers by questioning their method of madness lol

And thanks for the insight on how you cut the squishband. Do you do anything with the Pistons or are they cut a certain way as well?

Matt
 
And I agree 100%, I really enjoy the discussions about things like this. I just wanted to let everyone know I wasn't trying to ruffle anyone's feathers by questioning their method of madness lol

And thanks for the insight on how you cut the squishband. Do you do anything with the Pistons or are they cut a certain way as well?

Matt


I don't alter the piston on any saw besides the 026. It starts out with a dome, and I cut it flat. I'd tried a bunch of different ways to get consistent compression numbers in the 026, but never could make every saw turn out right where I wanted it.

Treemonkey shared his method, and I tried it....I've been cutting the piston flat every since. Scott was spot on.....
 
My atv heads had tapered squish and plug in the center of a perfect round dome ,but they ran pipes and longer stroke ,and slide carbs etc.
Had interchangeable domes in a billet head to change compression ratios also ,but they also produced close to 60 hp ,not 5 to 8 like a saw .
pd252sh-pd252sh-pro-design-cool-head-w-head-stay-lt250r.jpg
 
A flat squish with 020 clearance should pretty well have the charge in the combustion chamber I'd think, I don't think "aiming" it there will gain power but I've never tried it.
 

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