Poulan 2400 - worn out or fixable?

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Sprint60

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Hello all, new to the forum.

In 1995, right after closing on a new house in the country, I said to my wife, “we need a chainsaw!” She was so excited about the house that she didn’t even remark. I won’t go into the reason (at this time at least) for why I purchased this saw; a Poulan 2400. it’s been a pretty good saw and did all I asked of it until about 2008 when I became frustrated with it and “replaced” it with a Stihl MS260. A decision that I’m still glad I made. (And I won’t go into the reasoning behind that purchase either; I’m saving that for a “Stihl Saws Are Better Than X Saws” flame war.)

This little saw has always had a 40:1 mix of genuine Poulan 2-cycle oil and 91-octane non-alcohol gas kept in the gallon metal can that was purchased with it. (Not intending to start another oil thread; simply stating the facts, man.) Maintenance has been good, but apparently I let some junk get up under the air cleaner, which due to the design is somewhat easy to do; I’m basing that on the scoring of the cylinder. It’s not been run lean to the best of my knowledge - I’m the only one who’s ever used it. And it has been used a lot; it’s on it second or third sprocket, third or fourth bar and I don’t know how many chains. The thing about the chains is that they stretch out, so much so that I always ran out of adjustment long before the chippers were too small to sharpen.

When out running it one afternoon I came to the realization that I seemed to be spending a lot more time fiddling instead of working. That’s when I went for the MS260. After the Stihl came home I figured I look into the issue with the old Poulan and found the jug bolts loose and a worn down gasket. I replaced the gasket for a couple dollars and about half an hour on the bench. That’s as far as it went though; I never even put gas in it. Until last week that is. I was looking for information on chain sharpening and stumbled upon AS. My CAD has always been a level one addiction that could be easily treated with some occasional drooling on the saws at the local dealerships and running mine. Color doesn’t seem to matter too much, as long as the proprietor doesn’t get annoyed at the drooling, it’s good. But having seen all of the various threads on mending and souping up saws, I realized I didn’t need to go out and buy a saw to fix up because I already have one. So I poured some mix in it, and glory be it started straight away. Out of tune of course, the high side is slobbering rich. No compression though. Needs a sprocket too. Parts are available and not overly expensive. So I thought I pull it down again and take a hard look at its condition before I start spending money.

Unfortunately, the cylinder and piston look pretty rough and if I replace both of those, along with the sprocket, I’m up to about half of what the saw cost new. The con-rod bearing seems OK but I can wobble the crank sideways in the mains ever so slightly. Worth mending? I figure it’s going to run upwards of $100, possibly more if I tear out the main
s. I’m thinking about doing it just for the fun of it. But on the other hand I could put that toward a new saw and be money ahead. Opinions?

I’m posting some pics if I can figure out how to do it.

Saw
View attachment 268913
Slug
View attachment 268914
Exhaust Side
View attachment 268915
Intake Side - are those bands caused by piston slap?
View attachment 268916
 
It's a pretty tough little saw. I might take a shot at fixing it if it were me. You've had it since new. It has not been abused other than letting the jug work loose.

You buy a runner, it'll need something. They always do :(

Looks like aluminum on the cylinder wall ... That can be cleaned off with acid, so you likely can save the jug. Then it's just a piston, ring, and gaskets. Ain't so bad :)

I'd go through the oil pump too. Look and see if anyone makes a pro clutch and rim sprocket that will fit on there. If so, get some spare rims and you will be running well.

I run Stihl chain on most of my little saws. Best chain metal I have found. They stretch a bit, but settle in nicely. Get Stihl Oil-Rite chains with the holes in the drivers and the bars will last longer too.

Also, find a spike for that saw. It'll hold the powerhead out a bit away from the wood and allow the air to circulate better. Easy to open up the muffler outlet say 20% on these and make a bit more power w/o going crazy.

It's a good back-up saw and when you need it, it'll be right there waiting. Oh, and use Ultra Grey silicone on the sealing surfaces and threads of the bolts you take out and put back. They won't come loose again until you want them too :)
 
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The picture looks like it has the chromed piston and alum cylinder. If that is true, I'm wondering if there is a chrome cylinder and alum piston option available. Alot of these small poulans can interchange a few parts.
I will say that poor thing looks tore up but it sounds like you used it a lot so it must have earned its keep. if thats the case another upper end like that one should last another 20 years or more since you now have a nicer saw to handle the bigger chores.
 
If the jug was loose, it's a lean siezure. Even if it didn't stop, it was running lean and letting junk in.

Which would explain the scoring. I figured out pretty quickly that it wasn't right and quit running it; not quick enough though it appears.
 
[ The con-rod bearing seems OK but I can wobble the crank sideways in the mains ever so slightly. Worth mending? I figure it’s going to run upwards of $100, possibly more if I tear out the main
s. I’m thinking about doing it just for the fun of it. But on the other hand I could put that toward a new saw and be money ahead. Opinions?

Side to side play in the crank is normal. Radial play is a problem. If it's just side to side you have no issue there.
I guess the answer to your question depends on whether or not the saw has any sentimental value to you. If you like it, go fix it.
 
It's a pretty tough little saw. I might take a shot at fixing it if it were me. You've had it since new. It has not been abused other than letting the jug work loose.

You buy a runner, it'll need something. They always do :(

Looks like aluminum on the cylinder wall ... That can be cleaned off with acid, so you likely can save the jug. Then it's just a piston, ring, and gaskets. Ain't so bad :)

I'd go through the oil pump too. Look and see if anyone makes a pro clutch and rim sprocket that will fit on there. If so, get some spare rims and you will be running well.

I run Stihl chain on most of my little saws. Best chain metal I have found. They stretch a bit, but settle in nicely. Get Stihl Oil-Rite chains with the holes in the drivers and the bars will last longer too.

Also, find a spike for that saw. It'll hold the powerhead out a bit away from the wood and allow the air to circulate better. Easy to open up the muffler outlet say 20% on these and make a bit more power w/o going crazy.

It's a good back-up saw and when you need it, it'll be right there waiting. Oh, and use Ultra Grey silicone on the sealing surfaces and threads of the bolts you take out and put back. They won't come loose again until you want them too :)

I thought the cylinder would clean up too, until I checked that one above the exhaust port towards the right. That one's not surface smearing, it's a scratch and it's deep.

Spike's a good idea. Running Stihl chain is also a good idea; I'll look into that if I repair it. I think the local dealer can make a 56dl loop for me.

Thanks!
 
The picture looks like it has the chromed piston and alum cylinder. If that is true, I'm wondering if there is a chrome cylinder and alum piston option available. Alot of these small poulans can interchange a few parts.
I will say that poor thing looks tore up but it sounds like you used it a lot so it must have earned its keep. if thats the case another upper end like that one should last another 20 years or more since you now have a nicer saw to handle the bigger chores.

It certainly has earned its keep; it was originally purchased just for tree-trimming, which was a tall job when we moved in out here. No one had been tending the trees and the kudzu was shocking. Perfectly suited for that, but it was used for firewood duty as well later. Not as good at that; probably should be considered abuse.
 
[ The con-rod bearing seems OK but I can wobble the crank sideways in the mains ever so slightly. Worth mending? I figure it’s going to run upwards of $100, possibly more if I tear out the main
s. I’m thinking about doing it just for the fun of it. But on the other hand I could put that toward a new saw and be money ahead. Opinions?

Side to side play in the crank is normal. Radial play is a problem. If it's just side to side you have no issue there.
I guess the answer to your question depends on whether or not the saw has any sentimental value to you. If you like it, go fix it.

Yes it does have side to side; it's the radial that I was commenting on. Yep it does, it's a small amount of play but it's there and noticeable. Guess that's the clincher. No sentimental value really.

Thanks!
 
Hello all, new to the forum.

In 1995, right after closing on a new house in the country, I said to my wife, “we need a chainsaw!” She was so excited about the house that she didn’t even remark. I won’t go into the reason (at this time at least) for why I purchased this saw; a Poulan 2400. it’s been a pretty good saw and did all I asked of it until about 2008 when I became frustrated with it and “replaced” it with a Stihl MS260. A decision that I’m still glad I made. (And I won’t go into the reasoning behind that purchase either; I’m saving that for a “Stihl Saws Are Better Than X Saws” flame war.)

This little saw has always had a 40:1 mix of genuine Poulan 2-cycle oil and 91-octane non-alcohol gas kept in the gallon metal can that was purchased with it. (Not intending to start another oil thread; simply stating the facts, man.) Maintenance has been good, but apparently I let some junk get up under the air cleaner, which due to the design is somewhat easy to do; I’m basing that on the scoring of the cylinder. It’s not been run lean to the best of my knowledge - I’m the only one who’s ever used it. And it has been used a lot; it’s on it second or third sprocket, third or fourth bar and I don’t know how many chains. The thing about the chains is that they stretch out, so much so that I always ran out of adjustment long before the chippers were too small to sharpen.

When out running it one afternoon I came to the realization that I seemed to be spending a lot more time fiddling instead of working. That’s when I went for the MS260. After the Stihl came home I figured I look into the issue with the old Poulan and found the jug bolts loose and a worn down gasket. I replaced the gasket for a couple dollars and about half an hour on the bench. That’s as far as it went though; I never even put gas in it. Until last week that is. I was looking for information on chain sharpening and stumbled upon AS. My CAD has always been a level one addiction that could be easily treated with some occasional drooling on the saws at the local dealerships and running mine. Color doesn’t seem to matter too much, as long as the proprietor doesn’t get annoyed at the drooling, it’s good. But having seen all of the various threads on mending and souping up saws, I realized I didn’t need to go out and buy a saw to fix up because I already have one. So I poured some mix in it, and glory be it started straight away. Out of tune of course, the high side is slobbering rich. No compression though. Needs a sprocket too. Parts are available and not overly expensive. So I thought I pull it down again and take a hard look at its condition before I start spending money.

Unfortunately, the cylinder and piston look pretty rough and if I replace both of those, along with the sprocket, I’m up to about half of what the saw cost new. The con-rod bearing seems OK but I can wobble the crank sideways in the mains ever so slightly. Worth mending? I figure it’s going to run upwards of $100, possibly more if I tear out the main
s. I’m thinking about doing it just for the fun of it. But on the other hand I could put that toward a new saw and be money ahead. Opinions?

PM sent re parts
 
Yes it does have side to side; it's the radial that I was commenting on. Yep it does, it's a small amount of play but it's there and noticeable. Guess that's the clincher. No sentimental value really.

Thanks!

Have a look at the PM I sent ou. You should be able to pick up a piston, ring, cylinder, 2 crank seals, 2 crank bearings (Poulan parts) for $77 plus shipping

Fixing that Poulan is just a little easier than mastering those GD flippy caps on your 260
 
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Have a look at the PM I sent ou. You should be able to pick up a piston, ring, cylinder, 2 crank seals, 2 crank bearings (Poulan parts) for $77 plus shipping

Fixing that Poulan is just a little easier than mastering those GD flippy caps on your 260

lol - ain't it the truth! I've dumped a couple tanks of gas or bar oil by not paying close enough attention to that little detail! I think I've got the hang of 'em now though.

Hey; no flaming! I've got gas on my trousers!
 
If it has zero sentimental value to you stick it under the bench and start your quest for various parts saws, scored free or cheap. Eventually you can build runners.

man, it doesnt take long either, I started with one truckload of junkers for 100$, made several runners from it right off the bat with nothing but new fuel lines. There were some just needed carb cleaning, thats it, no parts at all needed. Some are still parts saws, havent even looked at them yet much, but scored a lot more since then to add to the pile, whenever the opportunity presents itsel to get deals like that. Whenever I am in the mood I poke through my stash and build another runner, not in any sort of huge hurry now that I have a wide range of different sized runners. Once you have several of the same model, usually you can piece together one or two.
 

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