Poulan Micro XXV dating/version and carb problem

[HarleyT]

The husky will be a little heavier due to the chain brake.

 

[Boomer 87]

Rich, when you put the fuel line on do you remember wether the fuel inlet was the metal type or plastic, some of the plastic ones like to split and leak fuel I had one that was split it would actually start and run but run poorly. I actually swapped 3 carbs that had split plastic fuel inlets.

 

[Rich Purdum]

metal type or plastic

Boomer, it is metal. I eliminated the plastic coupling where the line moved into the handle and just did a "home run" from the tank to the carb. I left enough slack in the tank to cut off the filter and pull the line through in case I needed to.

 

[HarleyT]

Boomer, it is metal. I eliminated the plastic coupling where the line moved into the handle and just did a "home run" from the tank to the carb. I left enough slack in the tank to cut off the filter and pull the line through in case I needed to.

I think he is talking about the elbow on the carb itself.

 

[HarleyT]

Never mind, I see what you said now. Yeah, I always did away with that little barbed fitting. I always put it in my junk/carb drawer, just in case I'd someday need one.

 

[Boomer 87]

Gotcha, it does sound like a carb rebuild is in your future. It mite just be me but it seems like the little displacement saws are more finicky about the condition of the diaphragms than a big thumper is

 

[Rich Purdum]

Well, I ticked open the high speed screw and ran through the Sea Foam Carb Spray procedure and I'm happy to report no more stalling . I've verified I am getting lots of oil on the bar so I must assume the chain is getting wet. It's not throwing oil like Stihl seems to call for but it's not a Stihl.

Now I need to order and new bar and chain. Since this will be an occasional light use saw, I want to avoid gold plated solutions and am looking at the Oregon bar/chain combo that pops up on the Oregon product selector page and upgrade the bar from 10" to 12".

I still intend to do the minor carb rebuild once the kit arrives. The saw has always been a little difficult on starting. Are there any guidelines on what I should look for in number of pulls on choke and then on start?

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

I was going by a different source:

http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...6e87c2a6c4824f6a88256bfa00192646?OpenDocument

versus this one..

http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...1d08ddfcd6ae13b988256d62001d46da?OpenDocument

There are only ounces difference so no big deal...

Almost a pound = 12oz difference in paper spec and actual weight. Big difference when you are 1 handing them in a tree.

Thats why I like the micro's over the older ones that were even heavier but better in the cuts.

 

[Rich Purdum]

Almost a pound = 12oz difference

JJ,

The 2000 spec is listed at 7.8 lbs. The XXV is listed at 7 lb 8 oz. Not sure how to get to 12oz from these numbers. My reading of the specs is a 2000 is an XXV with a few design tweaks which may have have added the extra weight. When I got my replacement fuel tank after my original developed a pin hole leak which I could not repair, I noticed he replacement felt heavier and sure enough it was almost 1 oz heavier and looked better made. Not sure if it came from a 2000 or an XXV. While I won't be up a tree with the saw, I will be working on a slippery bank where the smaller lighter tool will be safer to manage.

 

[BroncoRN]

There is a gasket kit and a full kit available.
Get the full kit anyway.

https://walbro.force.com/parts/Comm_PartsServiceDetails?partId=a0Fo000000V5CFaEAN

FWIW, those K10-wat kits are all over ebay and amazon for super cheap.

 

[Rich Purdum]

super cheap

Now you tell me. Jack's has shipped the kit for way more than Amazon! Next time I should ask here!

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

JJ,

The 2000 spec is listed at 7.8 lbs. The XXV is listed at 7 lb 8 oz. Not sure how to get to 12oz from these numbers. My reading of the specs is a 2000 is an XXV with a few design tweaks which may have have added the extra weight. When I got my replacement fuel tank after my original developed a pin hole leak which I could not repair, I noticed he replacement felt heavier and sure enough it was almost 1 oz heavier and looked better made. Not sure if it came from a 2000 or an XXV. While I won't be up a tree with the saw, I will be working on a slippery bank where the smaller lighter tool will be safer to manage.

Never mind . I was showing the difference in PAPER spec you posted and actual weight.

 

[BroncoRN]

Oh and FWIW the offbrand/chinese/whatever kits work exactly the same at least as far as the diaphragms/gaskets go.

In my experience the knock off carb I used on my HT75 pole saw worked awesome.

 

[Rich Purdum]

I still intend to do the minor carb rebuild once the kit arrives. The saw has always been a little difficult on starting. Are there any guidelines on what I should look for in number of pulls on choke and then on start?

Finished the minor carb rebuild (fuel pump/metering diaphragm), installed new air and oil pump filters and a new 12" Oregon bar and chain. I could not believe it coughed on the fourth pull on choke and started on the fourth pull on run. What a relief! I probably need to do some fine tuning but that can wait a bit. We have some cooler weather headed our way on Sunday so I'm running out of excuses to avoid tacking the real work that got me started down this path with my old Poulan.

 

[Rich Purdum]

I know this is an old thread but I figured this is where to pick up on my Poulan Micro trail of tears. After all of the above work (carb/oiler/etc.) and working ok for a few hours, the thing started the same old behavior...stalling under load. I had since then inherited a Stihl 049 so put the little guy to one side. I decided to take the carb back to the specs in the manual and see if it would run...to no avail. It has been sitting to one side of my workbench for a few years now (heart surgery paused me) and I figure it's time to give this little terror one last try. New carb? Diffetent carb? Higher test gas? As it sits now it won't start. All suggestions are welcome. Thanks.

 

[gumneck]

I know this is an old thread but I figured this is where to pick up on my Poulan Micro trail of tears. After all of the above work (carb/oiler/etc.) and working ok for a few hours, the thing started the same old behavior...stalling under load. I had since then inherited a Stihl 049 so put the little guy to one side. I decided to take the carb back to the specs in the manual and see if it would run...to no avail. It has been sitting to one side of my workbench for a few years now (heart surgery paused me) and I figure it's time to give this little terror one last try. New carb? Diffetent carb? Higher test gas? As it sits now it won't start. All suggestions are welcome. Thanks.

Have you ever tested the crank shaft seals to make sure they are not leaking?

 

[Rich Purdum]

Have you ever tested the crank shaft seals to make sure they are not leaking?

I have not tested the seals and would have no idea how to go about doing that. I don't see what that might have to do with losing power under load.