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If its not getting gas the gas cap may not be venting. My best friend's 3816 did that once, took me longer to figure it out than I care to admit. Your saw should handle 6 cords a year no problem. My advice: add a little extra oil to the mix, around 35:1 and always use fuel stabilizer. Get a real chain and keep it sharp. The training wheels chains they come with make the saw work harder in my opinion. Adjust the chain so it runs very easily across the bar with no binding whatsoever. My little Poulan 2050 is in its seventeenth year and still going strong.
 
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Hey guys will the carb adjustments cause it not to start though? Also, I am just thinking about returning it to the store. Do you think I got a bad product and what can I do next time so this does not happen again. Next time I am going to put in a champion plug instead of the cheap one in there anything else I should do. Also, How long should I expect the saw to last since I cut 6 cords of wood a year? Thanks.

Lack of compression will cause a saw to not fire... Don't take this wrong, but I gotta know... You did mix 2 stroke oil in the gas before using the saw, right?
If so, then it will be covered under warrantee if the piston is toast...
If not, you got a problem.
Only way to know for sure, is to take the muffler off and look at the piston.
 
Yes I did use two stroke gas 40 to 1 ratio. Is there a thread on this website that shows me how to adjust the carb once I get the new one. Why did the piston go on mine could the carb setting really do that this early?
 
$40 really? Seems high for such a basic tool.

I read this a while ago somewhere on here and saved it as a note:

"Using a piece of 1/4" dowel rod, center drill it with a 9/64" drill bit and then gently tap it on the screws." Now you have a wooden adjuster, should work just fine.

The tool???
YES!!!
Pay $40 for it???
HELL NO!!!
I paid 15 bucks for mine...
 
The tool???
YES!!!
Pay $40 for it???
HELL NO!!!
I paid 15 bucks for mine...

That sounds more reasonable, but check the link. "1 new from $39.95" is all that is listed. I can't find them on eBay right now either other than in a $60 kit that has 3 others bundled with it.
 
Yes I did use two stroke gas 40 to 1 ratio. Is there a thread on this website that shows me how to adjust the carb once I get the new one. Why did the piston go on mine could the carb setting really do that this early?

A saw depends on fresh fuel and air for cooling and lubrication...
When a saw is lean, it has too much air, and not enough fuel/oil mix...
It runs very hot... This can get so hot, the aluminum from the piston can soften and smear over the rings and up the side of the cylinder...
Proper fuel/air tuning is essential for long life and proper operation of any 2 stroke motor...
There are tuning threads on this forum...
 
That sounds more reasonable, but check the link. "1 new from $39.95" is all that is listed. I can't find them on eBay right now either other than in a $60 kit that has 3 others bundled with it.

Ouch!!!
I have, in the past, just removed the needles and cut a groove into the heads with a hacksaw blade...
It works, and don't strip out...

But that sucks those tools are so freaking high right now... Cause they work even better than traditional screws and screw drivers...
 
The tool I use is a pair of needle nose pliers. Works everytime. Sometimes you gotta pull a few parts tho to get the pliers in there.
 
Hey Mopar, what did the wood chips that the chain was throwing look like? Were the big chips or did it look like sawdust??? I can't imagine that a new saw running oil in the fuel can die with out some help from the operator. If the saw was making dust instead of chips it was being run at too high of a RPM and thus would melt down. I can't imagine that it just died all by itself.........
 
Hey guys will the carb adjustments cause it not to start though? Also, I am just thinking about returning it to the store. Do you think I got a bad product and what can I do next time so this does not happen again. Next time I am going to put in a champion plug instead of the cheap one in there anything else I should do. Also, How long should I expect the saw to last since I cut 6 cords of wood a year? Thanks.

My uncle still occasionally uses a McCulloch 10-10A that my grandfather bought new around 1973 or 1974. It's been used a lot, but it's also been well maintained. Try to find an Autolite or even NGK substitute for whatever crap plug the manufacturer uses.


They were $15 a couple of weeks ago when I bought mine. :msp_sad:
 
Hey mechanic Matt the saw was throwing out the appropriate SIZED WOOD CHIPS AND THE CHAIN WAS TENSIONED APPROPRIATELY. The last time it worked I was cutting about a 12 in diameter tree, I was in the middle of the cut and it bogged down and it now will not start regardless of new plug. As I said, I am returning to the store and when I get the new one, I am immediately using the new plug and adjusting the carb, is there a particular thread that is really good explaining how to adjust the carb. Thanks all!!!
 
Hey Mopar, Im not one of the guys on here that starts fights or likes to fight on the Internet. It makes no sense to me, so do us both a favor and settle down. Im just trying to figure out what happened so YOU don't repeat it and hurt another saw.

As for tuning, get the tool and turn the H screw out 1/8 of a turn past where it is. You want to be able to "hear" it start to break up when ran WOT with no load on it. Guys call it four stroking, but its really not four stroking. It is just breaking up. When you put the saw under load it'll clear up. I tune all mine by ear then check with the tach. Do a search, alot of guys have made videos so you can learn what to listen for. Good Luck, Ill stay out of your posts now.
 
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OOPS!! I did not realize the caps lock was on. I apologize for any misunderstanding. Thanks again everyone for all of the advice it means a lo!!! I know this saw was cheap but I think I ended up with a lemon!!
 
OOPS!! I did not realize the caps lock was on. I apologize for any misunderstanding. Thanks again everyone for all of the advice it means a lo!!! I know this saw was cheap but I think I ended up with a lemon!!

Awe, I don't think it was a lemon, but they sure can be ticking time bombs in the hands of unsuspecting users... Just get another one, and be suspicious of it...
I assume every saw I get has been inadvertently set wrong at the factory.
Sometimes I'm wrong, but sometimes not. I tuned a saw for a friend of mine that's just like the one you had. It's still going strong... Just remember, the high setting needle is the farthest from the jug. Turn it counter clockwise till the saw "blubbers" at full throttle no load...
When you put it in the wood it should "clean up"...
Go to the search function and type in "how to tune a carb".
If ya get nothing, post back on here...
 
Okay I got the new saw and I ran it without adjusting the carb. It only took a few cuts to realize it needs adjusted thanks epa standards!! So, since I do not have the tool I turned the high setting one and half turns counter clockwise but it still was not blurbing like I though. I think I need to cut slots on the crab adjusters so Ican use a regular screwdriver instead of the 40 dollar tool. Should I do that or did I adjust the high setting too much because I don't know about others but my poulan gets hot only using it for a few minutes. Also do I nee to adjust the low and idle eventually. Let me know, If I should post this on the poulan thread cause so many n here use these regularly.
 
Okay I got the new saw and I ran it without adjusting the carb. It only took a few cuts to realize it needs adjusted thanks epa standards!! So, since I do not have the tool I turned the high setting one and half turns counter clockwise but it still was not blurbing like I though. I think I need to cut slots on the crab adjusters so Ican use a regular screwdriver instead of the 40 dollar tool. Should I do that or did I adjust the high setting too much because I don't know about others but my poulan gets hot only using it for a few minutes. Also do I nee to adjust the low and idle eventually. Let me know, If I should post this on the poulan thread cause so many n here use these regularly.

You turned the high side out an additional 1.5 turns out?
That may be a bit much...
Usually 1/2 turn will suffice...
 
I think that I did turn it out to much. I am going to use a dremel and create slots so I can use a regular screwdriver.

Also, when tuning the chainsaw, can I take the bar and chain off? Thanks.
 
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