Poulan S25 fuel line replacement

[Eccentric]

You can probably order the duckbill valve through your local Husky dealer too. As Nelson said, it's cheaper to get multiple duckbills due to shipping. I need to get a bag of the Poulan 26119's (and a bag of the Homelite 69451's) myself.

 

[7hpjim]

Thanks guys, just bought sone of the little orange ones for the Homelite S2 @ the Steal dealership @ 4.50 each plus 7% gov share:msp_scared: but they are obviously too big for the fuel caps on the S25's.

 

[7hpjim]

mowers4u.com Duck Bill Valve # 530026119. $1.50 or so for the part $3 or so for shipping. If ever will use more It's cheaper to get a few extra.

I just ordered 2 of these from an Epay seller last week and they are WAY too big, the originals were black those are green and twice the size of the orange ones for the homelite, can someone please give me a good part # and source for the correct valves.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Jim, part # 530026119 is the correct valve for the S25 fuel caps. There actually smaller in dia then the Homelites.

Trying to figure out why you think there too big.

 

[7hpjim]

I'll try to post some pics of what I have on hand, maybe the ebay seller got me , gonna sling some lead @ the range after work and then I'll try to get them pics, its not real pressing but I have the s25da ready to go and all the cvda needs is a fuel and oil line then its ready to play with and I wanna play with em!!

 

[7hpjim]

Just wanted to update, the ones I bought from the bay are the wrong ones, but the orange Homelite ones will work, just have to shoe horn it into the star washer, set and seat assembly back into the cap and no more peein' poulan!!:msp_thumbsup:

 

[jammin_with_j]

Great Post Mark, I also liked the post for the Micro XXV, very helpful in doing the fuel lines for the first time.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

bump. keeping it on top

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I'll bet you could do that blindfolded! Nice job on the write-up.. Rep sent.

 

[carguy]

Nice write up, last week I replaced the fuel line on my S25 and did not remove the flywheel. It was tough routing the line using wire and long thin needle nose pliers. It took more than 15 minutes for the job.

 

[redunshee]

Nice write up, last week I replaced the fuel line on my S25 and did not remove the flywheel. It was tough routing the line using wire and long thin needle nose pliers. It took more than 15 minutes for the job.

I typically remove the flywheel. Find it much easier.

 

[Chris J.]

bump. keeping it on top

Yep, also to subscribe to make it easier to find in the future.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Great write-up, Mark. Deserves yet another bump.

Been on the prowl for a S25 for some time and bookmarked this thread a while ago in case I actually found a deal on one. Found a couple of em in nice shape last week for next to nothing, 'course they need fuel lines and filters as expected.

Piece o' cake, mang. Thanks.



Poge

 

[3000 FPS]

Great write-up, Mark. Deserves yet another bump.

Been on the prowl for a S25 for some time and bookmarked this thread a while ago in case I actually found a deal on one. Found a couple of em in nice shape last week for next to nothing, 'course they need fuel lines and filters as expected.

Piece o' cake, mang. Thanks.



Poge

Ha I did the same thing about a month ago. Marks pictures were very good and like redunshee I took the flywheel off. It did make it much easier.

 

[Roanoker494]

Ha I did the same thing about a month ago. Marks pictures were very good and like redunshee I took the flywheel off. It did make it much easier.

I have done three in the last week without removing the fywheel, not the easiest thing to do for sure. First one was just to prove I could, the second one was because I was to lazy and the third one was because the flywheel would not come loose. Third one was a Craftsman 2.3/16 but it was little different with two guide holes by the flywheel, spaced about 1/2" apart and in line with each other.

 

[Mack10]

Hey guys new to the forum. I was just wandering if anyone has a trick for securing the flywheel on a super 25 in order to tighten the sprocket assembly on the other side of the crankshaft. I've tried pinching a block of wood in the flywheel but im afraid i'll bend the fins. Also, if anyone is aware of proper torque values for the flywheel and sprocket assembly that info would be great too.

Thanks, Mack

 

[Kostas]

Hey guys new to the forum. I was just wandering if anyone has a trick for securing the flywheel on a super 25 in order to tighten the sprocket assembly on the other side of the crankshaft. I've tried pinching a block of wood in the flywheel but im afraid i'll bend the fins. Also, if anyone is aware of proper torque values for the flywheel and sprocket assembly that info would be great too.

Thanks, Mack

Welcome to the forum Mack.I don't know the proper torgue for the flywheel but you don't have to tight the clutch with a proper torgue.Just put it in place,tight it a little and put the bar and chain(DO NOT RUN THE SAW WITHOUT BAR AND CHAIN).Fire the saw and touch some wood,the clutch will tight by it self.

 

[zogger]

Hey guys new to the forum. I was just wandering if anyone has a trick for securing the flywheel on a super 25 in order to tighten the sprocket assembly on the other side of the crankshaft. I've tried pinching a block of wood in the flywheel but im afraid i'll bend the fins. Also, if anyone is aware of proper torque values for the flywheel and sprocket assembly that info would be great too.

Thanks, Mack

I just use clean starter rope or equivalent inside the cylinder as a piston stop. Flywheel, no idea on torque, just snug to tight. I do both sides. flywheel andf clutch side, all the time with the rope. Get piston near to top dead center so that the way you are turning the nut causes the piston to want to continuie travelling up a little, stuff in rope through plug hole, have at it. Also easier with the muffler off as you can see you are not getting the rope hung up in any port, you don't want to do that.

Some guys use a low powered impact and normal engine compression, but I have never done that.

 

[redunshee]

Regarding the flywheel, I simply ho ld it by hand and tighten snug with a socket. Other option is to stuff a rope in the sparkplug hole and snug nut with ur socket wrench. Same procedure for Yyclutch when whe In removing it.

 

[nelson727]

Welcome Mack. I use a big set of channel lock pliers to hold one side of the flywheel. I’m sure that is not exactly the ‘right’ way to do it. Out of about 50 or 70 removals I slipped and broke a fin once when I first started doing that.

Since this model of saw uses the fuel line as a seal in the gas tank I find that I have problems with it leaking gas sooner rather than latter. I switched over to Tygon fuel line for this reason. It is better than the junk I was using before but it gets hard and shrinks within a year or so. Anyone know of anything better?