Powerhead up or down when saw is verticle?

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At best...........

YOU'LL PUT YOUR EYE OUT KID


at worst.............don't wanna even guess.

It is one thing to carry the saw with the mill atached and use it as a hedge trimmer......quite another to have a saw running flat out mounted on a lightweight tractor and not inertia chainbrake
I'll learn to post pictures when it's done.

On safety, you can't see the chain, as I said back of blade is guarded, enclosed, light tubing to direct the cut branches down, to be mowed later.
 
A slightly.......ever so slightly safer alternative

But some engineering involved.

<a href="http://s149.photobucket.com/albums/s48/RnsWScissors/?action=view&current=DSCF0015.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s48/RnsWScissors/DSCF0015.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
But some engineering involved.

<a href="http://s149.photobucket.com/albums/s48/RnsWScissors/?action=view&current=DSCF0015.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s48/RnsWScissors/DSCF0015.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Take a lot of them to get the cut of a 5 foot bar, not to mention the drive....
 
One blade on a vertical carriage that moves up and down......

So you own the granberg and have never hit a nail or spout with the set up?

They get pretty scarey
 
I like PES+ solution to the problem the best so far. You could build something like what they use to clear the power lines with the helicopter. You could use about four or five of those blades in a row and have them chain driven. I think using a chain saw is going to be a problem, as you probably will not be able to keep a chain on a bar five feet long cutting limbs.
 
Removing every other row would not destroy the orchard in fact it may greatly improve the health of the remaining trees.

The apple tree spacing was set with maintenance in mind that would be the most productive with that cultivar. Wider spacing may mean that all of the trimming you have planned may not be necessary now or even in the future and the trees could be allowed to grow unmolested into their natural form.
I agree with you but the money involved is too much for him. 7 orchards on the property. He just wants to keep some rows open to cruise and not have to go around. And trim along the lanes.
 
I like PES+ solution to the problem the best so far. You could build something like what they use to clear the power lines with the helicopter. You could use about four or five of those blades in a row and have them chain driven. I think using a chain saw is going to be a problem, as you probably will not be able to keep a chain on a bar five feet long cutting limbs.

And driving 5 circular blades will be easier???????????
 
Just do a little test........take your set up out and manually try what you propose by hand and see what happens with the chainsaw mill.

WITH THE CHAIN BRAKE INSTALLED AND WORKING CORRECTLY


Then you may rethink your design some


No one said the circular blade was EASIER
 
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And "Mowing" the trimmings is a waste of prime smoking chips
Get a little home type chipper
When the orchard was in production, we mowed with a 7 foot single rotary, with a 65 HP 4 wheel drive to climb over a 4 foot pile of branches the length of each row. Branches to 3 inches, then a lower cut with a 15 ft double bat wing, not much to find by next year.

We tried pushing with a dozer but the piles took too much room.

If you ever want chips PES+, I'll get them to you.

After burning orchards, of 20+ onch trees, a home chipper was never considered......a problem of scale.
 
You are missing a point that lakeside and I both have stated,

You appear to think that the bar of the chainsaw mill will act like the clip and trip but it will not.

What it does instead is to bend the limbs so the saw chain will be biting at an angle and that is the one thing that is pretty much guaranteed to flip and or break a chain

See lakeside's post regarding the 357XP......that is how the majority of those case breaks happen to those series saws.....brush cutting and flipping the chain

Now consider a 50 incher flipping off the same way and look at the guard and consider all places that chain can flip
 
You are missing a point that lakeside and I both have stated,

You appear to think that the bar of the chainsaw mill will act like the clip and trip but it will not.

What it does instead is to bend the limbs so the saw chain will be biting at an angle and that is the one thing that is pretty much guaranteed to flip and or break a chain

See lakeside's post regarding the 357XP......that is how the majority of those case breaks happen to those series saws.....brush cutting and flipping the chain

Now consider a 50 incher flipping off the same way and look at the guard and consider all places that chain can flip
If I mount several clip and trims to a 5 foot bar, how would that create a different load than on a 20 inch bar, larger yes but how different. The clip and trim works really well. Ever tried one?
I thank you for your help
Rob
 
So you will be drilling your 50 inch and not using the mill frame?

It would work slightly better than attempting the mill.....if you use the mill you still have the bend problem and it likely won't cut much of anything with the combination of the two
 
You are missing a point that lakeside and I both have stated,

You appear to think that the bar of the chainsaw mill will act like the clip and trip but it will not.

What it does instead is to bend the limbs so the saw chain will be biting at an angle and that is the one thing that is pretty much guaranteed to flip and or break a chain

See lakeside's post regarding the 357XP......that is how the majority of those case breaks happen to those series saws.....brush cutting and flipping the chain

Now consider a 50 incher flipping off the same way and look at the guard and consider all places that chain can flip

Maybe the commo problem.........

This thing will look like a giant hedge trimmer, Teeth and all, with the chain

set back with the clip and trim. I thought the clip and trim was better known,

I should have explained better.

The saw running health was the threads question.
 
So you will be drilling your 50 inch and not using the mill frame?

It would work slightly better than attempting the mill.....if you use the mill you still have the bend problem and it likely won't cut much of anything with the combination of the two

Yes...drilling the bar, mounting said bar to frame.

I have GOT to learn to post pictures!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The rear guard gives the rigidity to the bar. The power head mounts to the bar, the bar is mounted rigid.
 
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