Pro Mac 610 Oiler

[3000 FPS]

First I am new and the name is Roger. Yes I do like rifles that shoot close to or more than 3000 FPS. This is a great site and from what I have read you all look like a great group here. Now onto chainsaw buisness. I have a McCulloch 610 that I recently bought and the oiler did not work. I took it apart and blew out all the orifices and now the manual oiler is really pumping oil good. On the auto part of it with the adjustment all the way out for maximum it just puts out small drops at a time. What I would like to know is what is normal for an output from the small hole down by the sprocket coming from the oiler. I have never worked on a chainsaw before and do not know what is normal. It could be that it is fixed or it could be that I need a new pump. Look forward to responses.

 

[Chris-PA]

Near as I can tell the manual oiler and the pulse driven automatic oiler are fairly separate. They share the inlet and outlet and are in the same plastic housing, but other than that not much. I had one in exactly the same state, and I got the manual part working but only got a little from the automatic part. I had also blown it out with compressed air, and I damaged a check valve - or it may have been damaged already and I just blew out the part. I'm guessing it was some kind of a rubber bit and it left the premises under air pressure.

My advice is to get a new one with a gasket. I think I got one off ebay. They do pump pretty well when they are working, and while I've been known to take all manner of things apart, that plastic pump is not going to be repairable. I keep meaning to cut the old one apart to see how it's supposed to work.

 

[3000 FPS]

Great that is the kind of info I was looking for. I will look into ebay and just get a new oiler. There is nothing better than to get info from someone who has been there and done that. Thanks.

 

[Chris-PA]

Good luck with it. They do pump just fine - I'm running a 24" bar on mine, and I had it buried bucking up a big oak last week. I had been using the manual oiler too, but I kinda forgot to this time - after multiple cuts I stopped to check it and it seemed well coated with oil, and not too hot. So I think the output is adequate when it's working.

 

[3000 FPS]

Good luck with it. They do pump just fine - I'm running a 24" bar on mine, and I had it buried bucking up a big oak last week. I had been using the manual oiler too, but I kinda forgot to this time - after multiple cuts I stopped to check it and it seemed well coated with oil, and not too hot. So I think the output is adequate when it's working.

You know I was wondering about the use of a larger bar and chain. I have a 20" on it right now, but it is good to know that it will handle a 24" with no problem. I have other saws that use a 20" so I may change this to a 24".

 

[Chris-PA]

And my 3420 is only 55cc (the same as a PM605). I'm sure it's not the fastest saw in the world with a 24" bar, but I wasn't getting bored while cutting. I bought the 24" Oregon Power Match Bar and Chain Combo ( Bailey's - 24" Oregon Power Match Bar and Chain Combo 3/8" Pitch ) with 72LGX full chisel. The full chisel probably helps with my somewhat underpowered setup, at least when it's sharp. Semi chisel would probably have been a better choice for what I do.

 

[3000 FPS]

Thanks for the link.

 

[B.C.]

Hey guys, quick question for ya. Got an old 610 here myself I picked up, trying to fix up. Had a spare, putting together one good saw, or trying to anyway. I got her all put back together today and put a kit on the carb and it fired up and seemed to run pretty good. Let it run for a bit and watched for oil. Never came out. Manual pumps just dandy. So the automatic oiler wasn't working.

Took the oiler off the runner and the other parts saw and swapped them. All of a sudden she was screamin. Of course I assume somehow it went lean? Loosened the gas cap, checked the carb hose for leak, everything seemed fine. Had to assume it was something with the oiler. Kind of looks like the 4 mounting screws might actually pierce the crank!? (I flippin hate when engineers put screw holes into a crank, such a ***** to seal.) Anyway, figure I may as well order a newer oiler here before I put it back on again since it's gonna apparently be difficult, did you guys have to seal up those 4 mount screw holes? If so how did you do it? Or what did you do swapping yours to get them to seal right?