Problems Starting 028AV

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Vernon Tull

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Apr 3, 2005
Messages
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Location
Alabama
Before I took my 028 into the local Stihl dealer for minor repair it always started very easily. I had them put on a new rubber fuel line from the tank into the carb and to replace the fuel filter. This they did for a whopping $40, but now the saw is very difficult to start. Sometimes it takes 25 pulls now to start it and keep it running.

What's happened here?
 
Do you know what your carb is set to? Just wondering if the old fuel line was bad and you had compensated with carb settings. I would reset the carb back to the basic setting of 1 turn out from lightly seated and see if that helps.
 
Check the choke is operating fully - the 028 has a crappy control rod system and it's very fussy...

...and take it back and tell them they made the starting worse... If it was recent and they are a decent dealer, they'll fix it ...
 
You took a saw to a Stihl dealer, and told them to put in a fuel line and filter,
but the saw run great and started easily? It always ran great before!??!

I have heard that story before............

I stopped playing that game a long time ago.

Put on a new bar, chain and sprocket. And yeah put in a new plug, and maybe a new fuel filter.
What??? It ran great before???!!!!! What did you do to my saw???!!!

When anyone brings me a saw with that line of bull, I always get
them to start it for me before they leave. It saves me from a lot of
headaches of customers trying to get their saw fixed cheap.
 
Fish -- I don't know what the hell you're talking about. My fuel line had disintegrated to the point it was leaking fuel all over the handle. I didn't have the part or really even the knowledge to change it and the fuel filter out. I don't know that my old fuel filter was clogged with crud; I only had them change the filter as part of maintenance and precaution. This saw has always started within three or four pulls when cold and one pull when warm. Since I got the saw back, it takes 25 or more pulls to crank it when cold and 6 or 7 when warm.

Now despite whatever scam Fish is referring to, I have come to a solution about the saw. With some careful thinking and reading the manual about carb settings, I have made some adjustments to the carb and it's back running and starting top notch. I don't know if they made some sort of adjustment to the carb while it was in the shop, but it was a poor adjustment if they did. Fortunately I won't have to take it back since I've got it adjusted fine now myself.
 
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Vernon Tull said:
Fish -- I don't know what the hell you're talking about. My fuel line had disintegrated to the point it was leaking fuel all over the handle. I didn't have the part or really even the knowledge to change it and the fuel filter out. I don't know that my old fuel filter was clogged with crud; I only had them change the filter as part of maintenance and precaution. This saw has always started within three or four pulls when cold and one pull when warm. Since I got the saw back, it takes 25 or more pulls to crank it when cold and 6 or 7 when warm.

Now despite whatever scam Fish is referring to, I have come to a solution about the saw. With some careful thinking and reading the manual about carb settings, I have made some adjustments to the carb and it's back running and starting top notch. I don't know if they made some sort of adjustment to the carb while it was in the shop, but it was a poor adjustment if they did. Fortunately I won't have to take it back since I've got it adjusted fine now myself.

Good job adjusting it yourself. It sounds like you saved yourself some grief trying to explain it to your omniscient Stihl dealer.

I'll tell you what he was talking about. There are some around here that think that Stihl dealers are close to gods, and naturally if one criticizes another person's god, that person whose god was criticized then tends to get their panties all in a bunch. 'Fish', (and I'm sure others like him) was just trying to get his panties un-bunched.
 
Vernon Tull said:
I don't know if they made some sort of adjustment to the carb while it was in the shop, but it was a poor adjustment if they did.

If you wanted the shop to properly adjust the carb as well as replace the line and filter, it probably would have cost you and extra $20.00 :laugh:

Sounds like reason to make a note: "I will NEVER take a saw to this saw shop again!"

The best way to avoid these problems is to learn how to repair such items yourself. Then there's only yourself to blame for your mistakes. I am glad you've got it running like it should once again.

Dan
 
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Glad you got it starting and running great again; plus, you learned something that will come in handy again. Madsen's has a great article on carb adjustments on their web site. Even though you've got 'er fixed, you might want to refer to that article for any fine tuning you may need down the line. http://www.madsens1.com/sawtune.htm
 
coveredinsap said:
I'll tell you what he was talking about. There are some around here that think that Stihl dealers are close to gods, and naturally if one criticizes another person's god, that person whose god was criticized then tends to get their panties all in a bunch. 'Fish', (and I'm sure others like him) was just trying to get his panties un-bunched.


Idiot
 
Thanks West Texas. That is a helpful article on carb adjustment.

I guess that when I stop to think about it, there are some folks out there who would try to scam a saw shop. Maybe that's part of what Fish is talking about. As anyone can easily see, I'm no saw mechanic, but I would certainly rather repair something myself than take it into a shop if I can.
 
Sorry Vernon, just a little shell shocked at this time of year.. Most customers say that it never ran right since it was last in for work,
or they bring in a rusted piece of junk for sharpening, and oh yes, a
spark plug.

Most everyone does not bring in a saw, unless it does not run.
Most of them run the pis s out of them until the piston is damaged,
then they bring them in for the sharpening, and "tune up", or plug.

There is a small fraction of customers that will request a parts
install, because they see the need for it, not that the unit is running
poorly,but they see the part going south, and they want to nip the
problem in the "bud".
But that usually is not the case. If a customer brings a saw [or
whatever] in for a specific repair, i usually note the request. And as
well, I note on the work order, that if the requested request does not
make the unit, start and run correctly, I will call them and inform them
as such, but they still will owe for the parts and labor of performing
the original request.
Sorry if I got my panties in a knot in your case, but I deal with folks
everyday, and all of them try to get me to fix their equipment for
as cheap as they can, no matter if they are a deacon, or a crack dealer.
Just been there, and done that alot.
the readjusting of the carb, in your case, is fortunate that it cured
the problem, as a cracked fuel line will surely introduce dirt/crap
into the carb, as I would have informed the customer if it was brought
into my shop. Adjusting the carb richer would compensate, maybe,
for a while, but I would not take that chance, as I would have informed
you that going through the carb was needed from the getgo.
A cracked fuel line, in a carb box will ingest lots of fine dirt in the carb.

If someone comes in requesting a specific part install, I note that
when they bring it in, and if they claim the saw starts and runs great,
then I get real detailed on my comments on the work order, as that
throws up a huge red flag, because I have been there and done that.

When I worked at a mower shop in a nearby city, a local lawyer called
in to ask if we could sharpen the blade on his pushmower during his lunchbreak,
he would drop it off and come back by an hour later, he wanted the blade
sharpened, ONLY.

When he came by, it was stuffed in the trunk of his BMW. I went out
to get the mower out of his car, one of our lackeys followed, when we
were lifting the mower out of his trunk, he shouted, "Be careful!"


The lackey brought the pushmower in the shop, I went in a short while
later and removed the blade. I usede my impact wrench, but the
wrench zipped without resistance, a broken bolt piece came off with
my socket, but the end of it had dried jb weld on it.

He had broken the bolt, while trying to remove it, so he jb-welded back,
and took it to the local mower shop for just a "sharpening".

I work on all types of stuff, and if I am wrong in my earlier post, I apologize,
I just deal with all types, and have heard it all.
 
Vernon Tull said:
Before I took my 028 into the local Stihl dealer for minor repair it always started very easily. I had them put on a new rubber fuel line from the tank into the carb and to replace the fuel filter. This they did for a whopping $40, but now the saw is very difficult to start. Sometimes it takes 25 pulls now to start it and keep it running.

What's happened here?

40.00,, dayummmmmmmmmm thats awful high for a 15 minute job at most. I charge 11.25 for such a minor job as that. Sounds like to me they did what you asked and something you didn't ask for, they fooled with your carb. Turn both carb screws in all the way and then screw them back out 1 full turn. Thats the starting point. Bet that saw starts firing right up. After that find the saw's best run setting and leave it alone.
 
From Fish: "no matter if they are a deacon, or a crack dealer" -- well said right there. I see your point.

Thall10326 -- Yes, the price breakdown was this: fuel line, $8.50 or so; pickup unit or filter, $8.50; labor, $15; and my favorite, something called an "Environmental Fee" of another $8. For good manners I didn't argue; I just wrote out the check. They're the only Stihl dealer within 30 miles, so I don't want to start an argument unless it's truly necessary.
 
Yes , the "enviromental fee", in other words, another buzz word to screw
some more money out of you. When a shop tries that crap, then they are
blatantly trying anything to get more money out of you, trying to make you
believe Bush is the blame. I agree, he is dumber than a bag of hammers,
starts wars where he should not, is likely culpable on this gas/fuel rape/job,
but the enviromental fee is something thought up by some shops to
screw you out of more money.
 
Vernon Tull said:
From Fish: "no matter if they are a deacon, or a crack dealer" -- well said right there. I see your point.

Thall10326 -- Yes, the price breakdown was this: fuel line, $8.50 or so; pickup unit or filter, $8.50; labor, $15; and my favorite, something called an "Environmental Fee" of another $8. For good manners I didn't argue; I just wrote out the check. They're the only Stihl dealer within 30 miles, so I don't want to start an argument unless it's truly necessary.

Well the price on the fuel line is about right, the filter or pickup is about 2.00 too high, I assume from the 15.00 labor they must be charging 60.00 a hour because its no more than a 15 minute job at most. The EF fee consist of throwing the old line and filter in the trash, what a deal. Man thats awful. You should remind them that they aren't working on a $40,000 car. That EF fee is what most car dealers use to get rid of old battiers and oil and anit-freeze. I've always tried to keep repair costs low as possible for when a dealer does that his customers spread the word and sales tend to climb from just word of mouth around town.
 
Vernon;

Any shop that knows what they are doing would have automatically checked the carb adjustments after replacing a bad fuel line. If it doesn't adjust out, then the screen in the carb is likely dirty.

Fish;

You have got to finish that story about the lawyer and the blade bolt! How did you handle the guy when he came back? Pleeeeeeeease say you didn't cave in to the jerk!

And an $8 EV fee is just plain stealing. I agree with Sap on this one! Shops like that are why people are wary when they walk into the store for the first time. Sometimes I just ask them straight out if they have had a bad experience somewhere. And they tell me stories like Vernons'.
 
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