Problems starting MS362, gets flooded

[etc]

I got it 2 days ago. OK, I did manage to start it yesterday on about the 6th pull but was too late to cut so I shut it off.

Tried it today. Forgot to push the decompression valve. Now all it's doing is flooding and not even turning over at all. The choke is in the bottom position (shutter closed). The engine is cold obviously.

Take out the spark plug, it's usually very wet, so much that the gap is all filled with gas. Clean it, put it back and do the above. Repeat 10 times. Even if the spark plug doesn't get too wet, still doesn't start.

Looking at the plug, looks like the gap is too small. I know it's set at the factory and nobody messed with it, but still looks pretty narrow, maybe that's why it doesn't fire and gets wet so fast?
Frustration sets in.

Tried to yank the starting grip (cord) without the spark plug to clear the gas out of it, apparently without success.
What I am doing wrong?

 

[isaaccarlson]

try starting it on half choke....or no choke....

just an idea.

 

[stihlboy]

check for spark or try new plug

 

[bobt]

1. Dry the sparkplug. You can use a bic lighter on the electrodes if you have one.

2. Flip the chole control to the run position so the choke plate is open.

3. I would tell you to use the the starter handle to turn the engine over 5-10 times without the sparkplug unless this will hurt the ignition module. Check the instructions.

4. Install spark plug and try to start it.

 

[etc]

Just got it to work!!!

1. Set full choke. The very bottom setting, to get there squeeze the throttle trigger and the safety thing above the trigger - tricky, would never figure it out without the book.

2. Pull the cord twice or 3 times. If it doesn't start, don't pull anymore, because after 5-6 tries it will smell like gas, with flooding happening. Instead, go to 3:

3. Go to half-choke - starts right away.

Still don't get what this decompression valve is for but I just follow the book and it works.

But the book is quite right about starting it, that is, it talks about moving to 'starting accelerating' choke setting, namely half-choke. I just had trouble comprehending their technical jargon the first time I read it.

It's not as easy as I was hoping but doesn't seem that bad once you know how. Of course I didn't risk drop-starting, that's a bit out of my league right now.

This below was very helpful too.

Oh yeah and I cut with a bit, nothing of any significance, but man this is one sweet device. Got to put it to work in a few days.


http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=107243&highlight=Stihl+flooding&page=2

 

[Echo6 Sierra]

I'm not trying to be an ass, but you did yourself a serious injustice by purchasing that thing off the internet.

When I took my buddy down to my dealer to look at a 362 the owner came out and took apart the saw and went over every little detail with him. He probably spent a good half hour talking to us about this saw. They even fill it up with gas/bar oil and take you outside and show you how to start it.

When it comes to saws good customer service support is like a sore prick, you can't beat it.

I suggest you read through that manual 2 or 3 times before you head out cutting. You don't want to hurt yourself or your new toy.

 

[davec]

I have flooded mine only once, first time out. Hint: never use full choke (bottom setting) unless the saw is stone cold, or it stopped because it ran out of gas. In that position youonly pull it 2-3 times, and it will sound like it is trying to start. Pull any more and it will flood. It will never fully start in the full choke, AFAIK. Move the switch to the second notch up, and it will start in a couple more pulls (stone cold).

If the saw is at all warm, use the second notch up, or you will flood it. It will usually start in one pull in this situation. If it ran out of gas, then it helps to start on full choke first, even if it is warm.

The odd thing I notice with this saw is that it doesn't "lean-out" like other 2stroke engines I have used when the fuel is almost out. It just dies instantly.

-Dave

 

[Echo6 Sierra]

If the saw is at all warm, use the second notch up, or you will flood it. It will usually start in one pull in this situation. If it ran out of gas, then it helps to start on full choke first, even if it is warm.

The odd thing I notice with this saw is that it doesn't "lean-out" like other 2stroke engines I have used when the fuel is almost out. It just dies instantly.

-Dave

Like Dave said I only use full choke when its stone cold or when I ran it dry. I've never had it start on full choke, when it sputters/dies that first time I go right to half and she fires right up. Once it is warm I start it on 'run' and it fires right up..

I have the 361 but I have also noticed it doesn't sputter or lean out, just dies.

 

[etc]

It seems you can only learn this hands on, but now I know. Cool stuff. Thank you.

 

[Uldis]

Congratulations on Your new saw - it sure looks GREAT!
Well taken care of it will put a big smile on Your face for years.
As You bought it online and didn't get advice and proper familiarization to the saw by an authorized dealer, I think You might want to take a look at this instructional VIDEO made by STIHL. It consists of 5 chapters (You can view them individually or as a full movie) which tells important things You NEED to know about Your chainsaw as well how to use it properly and very importantly - safely.
Stay safe and enjoy Your saw!
PS: Thanks for nice and many pictures in threads!

 

[nmurph]

etc, did you buy this from the internet?????? i didn't see that mentioned.

they don't call it half-choke bc it's not. this setting cracks the throttle slightly, but the choke is fully open.

don't worry about the decomp. if you don't need it, don't use it. i have them on many of my saws and only use them on a few, regularly. most get ignored altogether.

 

[Nethercutt]

I haven't run a 362, but my 361's decompression valve is worthless. The only thing it does is flood the carb. I stopped using it, and haven't flooded the saw since. They should have never put it on the 361: it's not a hard saw to pull-start.

 

[TommySaw]

your decomp valve is to make it easier to start the engine, it decompresses the air in the cylinder on the compression/intake stroke so you don't have to fight the compression to turn the engine over. Some engines need it more than others ie my 346 is harder to start w/o it than my 365, go figure:monkey:

btw congrats on the new saw

 

[rob066]

I dont know how the 362 is. I know 0n the 361 I got you should only pull it about twice with the choke on cold or it floods. Sometimes you cant even hear it pop. I dont ever use the compression release on it or any saw. I may need to use a compression release on on a saw bigger than an 066. An 066 is the biggest saw I had ever ran.

 

[howellhandmade]

I used to think that it needing the compression release was a sign of infirmity, but people who obviously know more than I do say that it's more for the saw than it is for you -- lessens the strain on the recoil mechanism, making it last longer. Equal and opposite reaction and all that. I try to use it for cold starts on my saws that have it but often forget.

Jack

 

[zoulas]

Read these forums and you will find out the best and only way to start these things. I made the mistake and followed the manual. Trust me, the pain you will get in your arms will MAKE you read and learn. It happened to me.

 

[porsche965]

My first time with the 361 had me taking the plug out also. Wanted to kick it like a football after a dozen pulls.

Now I don't touch the decomp. valve, pull two pulls no choke, set choke to full, drop start next pull and flip the choke off toward the bottom of the pull. Starts right up. Every time. Weird I know but it never misses that way.

Once it gets hot and then sits for quite a long time usually 2-3 pulls without choke and it will start right off. Careful setting of the low speed mix screw made a world of difference.

Congrats on your new saw!

 

[davec]

I've gotten it down to a swift routine already. Saw on ground or stump. Grab throttle with rt hand, flip the switch to the right position with the left. Grab the top handle with the left, flick my wrist to set the brake and tap the decomp with my finger while grabbing the pull handle with my right, and yank. Zip zip zip.

I've skipped using the decomp at times, and it really isn't hard to pull that way either. If it helps the starter last longer, great, but I don't find it is critical as the pull isn't that hard. No flooding issues either way.

-Dave

 

[thinkxingu]

I went to the local Stihl dealer last year after having been told that Stihls are a pain to start. He recommended an MS250, filled it with gas and oil, and showed me 'how' to start it. While doing so, he adjusted the fuel settings, tached it out, and told me to come back after 30 or so hours, so he could tweak it for me. Never had an issue starting it, not once.

Two weeks ago, I went back and bought a 361. He did the same for the new saw, including removing the carb limiter thingies--saw starts like a charm, even in 10* weather.

Buying from and supporting a local dealer is priceless.

S

 

[Dan_IN_MN]

Is it really half choke? Check it out some time!

........they don't call it half-choke bc it's not. this setting cracks the throttle slightly, but the choke is fully open........

I was thinking the same thing. I helped a friend of mine with his Stihl. The saw had fallen off of his tractor and ran over with the wagon that was being pulled behind. Well, he got the broken parts replaced except for the choke linkage. The guy doing the repair for him didn't have one. So, he fabed on up out of some wire. When I put the correct linkage in, I noticed that the choke was either closed with the lever all the way down or open in the other settings. I've thought about this when reading other posts about choke positions.

Food For Thought....

Dan