Problems starting STIHL 020T

[Mr_Brushcutter]

Well probally the most problemsom saw i've ever got serves me right for going second hand really but lesson learnt. After removing the bar and chain that were done up so tight i had to use a hammer to knock them loose!

Well When i got it i started it and it chocked to life and it ran fine. Now its decided that it doesn't want to play ball anymore. Got it started the thing was spittling what looked like to be 2 stroke out the exhaust so i probally flooded try to start it.

Anway it runs for a little while and then conks out or starts then dies again. The only thing i've done to it is acdentaly disconnect the ignition wire form the module. Does it matter which way around it goes when connecting to the module as currently i have it open face towards the front of the saw.



Thanks

 

[Lakeside53]

020T and MS200t are great saws when they run and a PITA to correctly diagnose and fix when the don't - mostly due to the very small form factor and difficulty of service. This is the one saw we almost never make "shop rate" on as they take so long to get going right, and we can't pass it on the real cost to the customer.


Having said that..


Best thing to do is pressure test the entire saw to make sure the seals, boots and impulse are correct. Maye you don't have the tester or adapters, but really helps you pinpoint the problems.

Check the Exhaust screen - often these are blocked leading to an over rich problem that blocks them more, and worse, can build up carbon in the cylinder exhaust to the point where it's almost blocked off.

Start with the carb - if the settings are close to standard - about 1 turn out on H and L, and it still does what you describe, just rebuilt it.

Look at the impulse line (take off the rewind starter side cover). It joins onto a nipple of the crankcase, winds up though the to cover and into the back of the carb box mount. It can get pinched or flattened, making it hard to start or run.

Pull out the fuel hose and check it for leaks or flattening.

Check the Boot - you really need to remove the handle to do this... the boots tear near where the plastic flange that holds it in place is mounted. Boots often tear because one or more AV mounts is damaged or missing, and the user continues to operate the saw and stresses the boot.

Crank seals... If the carb is set much richer than standard on the L setting, it's often an indicator of bad crank seals - the carb has been adjusted in an attempt to compensate for the air leak..

TIP: Before you take the handle assy apart, just pull off the side cover, and take a picture of how it is assembled - will save you a lot of head scratching later... also, when reinserting the carb, push it just onto the mount screws, then attach the throttle linkage, and then push the Carb all the way down. If you mount the carb first, you won't be able to attach the linkage without bending the rods - bad thing to do...

Good luck! tough and frustrating saw to learn on... but I survived



BTW, I don't understand your question about the ignition wire... The High Tension wire only fits on the coil in one place. The ground/ shutoff wire just clips on to the coil in one place. The conly mounts one way... Go to www.giftsofwood.com and download the service manual and IPL.

 

[stihltech]

nice

I was gonna jump in on this one, but I couldn't have said it better.

 

[Lakeside53]

I was gonna jump in on this one, but I couldn't have said it better.

well, thank you!...