Professional chain sharpening

[StihlyinEly]

Also you guys must have some absolute morons running grinders over there. Everytime a chain sharpening thread pops up people come out with grinder comments like "butcher", "wreck", "overheated" etc etc. Trust me, this isn't the grinder's fault, this is due to inexperienced or stupid operators. A properly operated grinder will do an excellent job on sharpening a chain.

My guy has a light touch on the grinder. Well, he's not my guy anymore, since I'm hand filing unless I really rock the #### out of a chain and it needs more than hand attention.

And since I'm always wearing gloves when I cut, it's easy to always wear gloves when I sharpen. Aside from protection, gloves give us a big advantage in grip strength.

I also recommend Save Edge files. Got a bunch a few months ago and like them a lot.

 

[Dan_IN_MN]

I read a post by an AS member about how much more successful he felt using a diamond coated tool in his hand held grinder was than hand filing.I used a battery powered sharpener to remove steel on cutters that were hardened by overheating:the result of poor machine sharpening.In the 37 years of making my living with chainsaws,I've only sharpened with files.The point the member using the hand held grinder was making was that it seemed easier than hand filing. Set your angles prior to touching the cutter and because the grinder is basically static while sharpening it was easier to concentrate on maintaining the correct angles.It isn't for me,but it may be an option for some less experienced wood cutters.Few things are as frustrating as illcutting chains.That new sharpening device by Oregon seems at a glance to have its merits.I am fanatical about keeping my chain out of the dirt and watch for hardware and rocks.To me ,smokin' fast chains are a thing of beauty.Gary

Here's the post I belive you are speeking of DIAMOND SHARPENING

 

[Mastermind]

I hand filed for many years before I got to the point that I considered myself to be fairly good at it, then I bought a grinder. It take practice to become proficient at grinding as well. I see how easy it is to blue a cutter or grind a raker too low, but for my needs it's a great thing to have.

 

[wsg]

I love the local Stihl dealer. Waiting at the counter and you hear the guy behind the wall grinding chains. Sounds like he is Grinding a steel plate with a 4" grinder. The first and last time they did a chain for me it came back blue and didn't cut for sheet. When I do mine it barely makes much noise when the wheel touches the chain.

I am new around here but I will tell you something i learned. The same dealer who sharpens you chains wants to SELL you more chains as well. Just a thought that made sense to me when deciding to learn the right way to file my own.

 

[StihlyinEly]

I am new around here but I will tell you something i learned. The same dealer who sharpens you chains wants to SELL you more chains as well. Just a thought that made sense to me when deciding to learn the right way to file my own.

You are right, but it really depends on the dealer. Both the JRed guy and the Stihl shop locally here use a very light touch on the grinder.

 

[garyischofield]

Roncoinc

The post I'm referring to is by AS member Roncoinc on 6/2/2010.He tells about using a dremel like tool and his thoughts make sense IMHO.I'm no authority on chain grinding,but the little I did using a dremel and 7/32 round stone brought out some important points.As you're not moving the stone back and forth but 1" and you're able to see very well what's happening "the angles seem easier to maintain.Of course, the height of the sharpening stone in relation to the cutter is critically important to the bevel on the top plate and the side plate.Too deep/feathered top plate and possibly too much hook on your side plate.Too high/blunt bevel on the top plate and possible back slope on the side plate in extreme cases.I used to file my chains with the file very deep in the gullet.Much less angle on the top plate but the resulting hook in the side plate can detrimental to cutting speed.Art Martin explained this well in one of his race chain tutorial threads.If an AS member had enough spare chains where shipping was'nt prohibitive I'd hand sharpen them for short money /send them back.After 37 years and miles of saw chain sharpened that is one thing I'm pretty fair at.I'd hope so!Gary

 

[MCW]

I also recommend Save Edge files. Got a bunch a few months ago and like them a lot.

Yeah I got 6 dozen 7/32" Save Edge files in via Brad. They are great files, definately the nicest modern files I've used (I got hold of some old Stihl files from the 1970's that were awesome - all used though sadly).
Out of the modern bunch of files these Save Edge ones are definately the best.

 

[roncoinc]

For those file freaks that can make a race chain on a 20in setup in five minits,good for you... i have never been able to master the file,can sharpen with one when i have to but not a master..
that is what led me to the dremel tool...so easy to use,dont even need to clamp bar down,hold onto saw or anything because there is very little pressure used.
then i found the stones would wear uneven and shrink in size as they wore,,then i found the diamond bits..they exhibit none of that..
check the video,how can it get any better ??

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[MCW]

For those file freaks that can make a race chain on a 20in setup in five minits,good for you... i have never been able to master the file,can sharpen with one when i have to but not a master..
that is what led me to the dremel tool...so easy to use,dont even need to clamp bar down,hold onto saw or anything because there is very little pressure used.
then i found the stones would wear uneven and shrink in size as they wore,,then i found the diamond bits..they exhibit none of that..
check the video,how can it get any better ??

I'm always worried about dropping a unit like that in straight on top of the cutter's leading edge and taking the chrome off the top. I've got a couple of rotary units like that but the stones have always been the real let down. Those diamond bits would have to be a massive improvement.

 

[wigglesworth]

My local "professional chain sharpener" uses the same grinding stone for 3/8, .325 and LP chain.. Some pro huh? You should see some of the crap that comes off that grinder. I file exclusively.

 

[MCW]

My local "professional chain sharpener" uses the same grinding stone for 3/8, .325 and LP chain.. Some pro huh? You should see some of the crap that comes off that grinder. I file exclusively.

I'm glad you used quotation marks for the "professional" bit. Sounds like a peanut. No wonder you only file

 

[StihlyinEly]

For those file freaks that can make a race chain on a 20in setup in five minits,good for you... i have never been able to master the file,can sharpen with one when i have to but not a master..
that is what led me to the dremel tool...so easy to use,dont even need to clamp bar down,hold onto saw or anything because there is very little pressure used.
then i found the stones would wear uneven and shrink in size as they wore,,then i found the diamond bits..they exhibit none of that..
check the video,how can it get any better ??

<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/_O6cXeCMS3s&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/_O6cXeCMS3s&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>

Now that's just slick. We've got two cordless Dremels like the one shown. What size diamond bit is needed for 3/8 pitch chain, and where can a fella pick them up?

 

[Philbert]

. . . that is what led me to the dremel tool...
check the video,how can it get any better ??

The Dremel is a perfectly legit way to go. Whatever works for you is what is important. But listening to the video instructions to remove the spark plug from gasoline powered saws before sharpening - REALLY? Kind of eats into the time saving advantage of sharpening on the bar a bit, doesn't it?

Freaking lawyers who probably never used a chain saw (or a Dremel tool for that matter).

Philbert

 

[StihlyinEly]

Plus, if you're gonna throw sparks, you really DON'T want the combustion chamber open with those easily ignitable gasses.

 

[MCW]

The Dremel is a perfectly legit way to go. Whatever works for you is what is important. But listening to the video instructions to remove the spark plug from gasoline powered saws before sharpening - REALLY? Kind of eats into the time saving advantage of sharpening on the bar a bit, doesn't it?

Freaking lawyers who probably never used a chain saw (or a Dremel tool for that matter).

Philbert

Yeah but what happens if the spinning Dremel head catches your starter rope, you have a faulty on/off switch, you've accidentally pulled your choke on, you've also forgotten your chaps, and the saw starts at full noise and cuts your leg off? Bet you didn't think of that scenario Philbert

 

[DSS]

Yeah but what happens if the spinning Dremel head catches your starter rope, you have a faulty on/off switch, you've accidentally pulled your choke on, you've also forgotten your chaps, and the saw starts at full noise and cuts your leg off? Bet you didn't think of that scenario Philbert

LOLOLOLOLOL................yeah, Philbert....

 

[Philbert]

Yeah but what happens if the spinning Dremel head catches your starter rope, you have a faulty on/off switch, you've accidentally pulled your choke on, you've also forgotten your chaps, and the saw starts at full noise and cuts your leg off? Bet you didn't think of that scenario Philbert

Well, you are right again MCW. Funny how we complain that modern saws can be so difficult to start and the lawyers assume that your scenario is an actual possibility.

I actually did think of the issue that StihlyinEly raised; plus, that it's a lot simpler to just pull the wire off the spark plug (which you have to do to pull the plug anyway) if you want to put the saw into zero mechanical state (ZMS).

Wait until they realize that most Dremel tools plug directly into a line voltage wall outlet, and that they spin cutting tools at 35,000 RPM.

Philbert

 

[A10egress]

After many hand files, I took some chains to the nearest saw shop and dropped off without asking the price...... they charged $9.00 each plus tax for 18" loops... and they do not look right to me...

They look as though the wheel was too big and instead of a nice scallopped cutting edge, it looks like a flat edge. Hard to explain... but I won't be taking them back there anymore.... The Husqvarna dealer is about 10 more miles, but worth the trip.

I always see the chain sharpener at Harbor freight, but it looks less than precise.... any user inputs?

 

[Philbert]

I took some chains to the nearest saw shop and dropped off without asking the price...... and they do not look right to me...

Just like good barbers and bad barbers - just because one owns a pair of scissors, doesn't mean that you want them to cut your hair.

I always see the chain sharpener at Harbor freight, but it looks less than precise.... any user inputs?

HF one is Crap. You won't be happy. Lots of grinder threads on this forum. Good Italian grinders (several names) $300 - $350. Chinese knock offs (several names) around $100.

As noted in an earlier post, even if you buy your own, it takes a little practice and skill to get good chains.

Philbert

 

[A10egress]

Just like good barbers and bad barbers - just because one owns a pair of scissors, doesn't mean that you want them to cut your hair.



HF one is Crap. You won't be happy. Lots of grinder threads on this forum. Good Italian grinders (several names) $300 - $350. Chinese knock offs (several names) around $100.

As noted in an earlier post, even if you buy your own, it takes a little practice and skill to get good chains.

Philbert

correct on both points.... Lesson learned!

I have found that talking with, and not talking "at" (like most of the rude locals do) my local Husqvarna dealer has paid big dividends. I got to know the sales and service people over the last few weeks by just taking time for small talk. Buying a rototiller and a new leaf blower/ vac didnt hurt either.

He'll get all my business from now on. Heck, his prices for OEM parts / stuff are VERY competitive with Baileys... and still gives me a discount! Baileys is still top notch in my book, but still gotta help the little guys too.

No one locally beats my old dealer back near Pittsburgh, but I am not driving 700 miles round trip to save $50.

back on topic.... for the hobby cutting I do, I'll stick to filing them myself and giving them to the right person to sharpen every once in a while to keep them "trued" up....