Put the Top Down, Went for a Ride

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Polesaw advantage # 384:

By selectively pruning the branches above, you not only lighten the load, you change the lean.

Chainsaw disadvantage # 965:

A pox on pollution
From the 2-cycle "solution".
 
Polesaws just don't cut fast enough, on leaners you want to remove as much holding wood as you can before it loads up, breaks off and sends you for a ride. I can cut dimensional lumber with a handsaw, I'm not bad at it at all, but I generaly use an electric circular saw. The old saying "why have a dog and bark yourself" comes to mind.
 
Re-entering the mallee...

I concur clearance, at 6" dia as stated by the originator I could (in Australian tall timber forest or such) still be cutting out 20 or 30'+ of head or more and none of my pole saws would reach the limbs above or wieght reduce enough if they could reach to reduce the wind sail area enough to count if a whip was cracking around about so speed for me is paramount once the lean is committed and for that I praise the mighty little saws we have these days mind you with the mention of popeye arms I would add I had all my saws stolen many years ago with only my 088 left so spent the week waiting for replacements using said 088 with 26"er on and boy did I have arms end of that week...:jawdrop:
 
We're supposed to have arms my Aussie brother. It's sort of expected of us.

I, too, vote for more horsepower while aloft. I think climbing with a 394 is something of a joy. It means I'm earning my living. But that's not what we're talking about here, though. Leaners. Back to leaners.

A power-ported 346XP, this is really not a difficult saw to climb with. The key is in having a good, stong bungee lanyard.


Bigger power bigger abilities. Quicker V-notches, which if you're directionally felling limbage you do a lot of V's. Knock out the V wedge with authority, no matter what size, back cut sure and with total control, the bigger power lets you run the saw through at lower RPM's, so if you have the need to full-throttle it, you are assured that you can plow through wood at the speed you choose.
 
"Polesaws just don't cut fast enough,

with practice, they are faster, and safer.

"none of my pole saws would reach

get a telescoping polesaw then

"Bigger power bigger abilities.

Bigger risk too, bigger boat anchor to drag up. TM, has that blonde whipped you into cert shape yet?

I'll leave you guys alone now. :bang: I can tell that you're all motorheads, addicted to Power, even when it takes more power to use it than you gain from using it.

Do you have a Tim Taylor poster in your shop?:bowdown:
 
Thats right, the big boys play with big toys, when you want to take off the training wheels, let us know.
 
Well, the polesaw discussion does help differentiate between those who primarily trim, and those who do the serious cutting on removals. I wonder how long it would take to cut through a 3 foot diameter silver maple lead with a polesaw?:laugh: FIRE UP THE 394!!!
 
treeseer Buit seriously Fireax said:
Aint got a cannon, but if I had one I probably would want to shoot it at something. I confess I have been known to break out the .22 rat shot on carpenter bees.

Thanks for the advice, though. Do have a tendency toward overkill I have to be aware of. Hit a cottonmouth water moccasin with .44 mag rat shot once at a range of 2 feet. A piece of the head landed on my shoulder.

Got a Sugoi, like it, use it a lot. But I usually have the 200T with me by the time I get to the top on a removal.
 
I would be interested to know the weight difference between a 346 and say a 200t. I used to climb with top-handles. Now I don't. Mebbe some day again I will, but the precision and control and speed I get with that power, Mmmmm.

'Course, we're talking about takedown issues here. As far as 6" pine, normally that's a silky thing, but if you're doing a spear cut, that's a longer cut, diagonal to the plane of the grain. Makes it a tough silky cut, especially the cut coming up from the underside. 346, though, it takes on all limbing with such authority. I don't do slow very well so I'll accept some extra weight. With that comes a LOT more cutting on a single tank and with .058 chain, a chain popping off is a RARE, mebbe twice a month occurance. Also, you tend to use BOTH hands on a rear-handle saw. These things are benefits that outweight the cost, at least for me. At the very least it's something to look at.
 
arboralliance said:
I concur clearance, at 6" dia as stated by the originator I could (in Australian tall timber forest or such) still be cutting out 20 or 30'+ of head or more ...

Yessir. Spindly rascal, that's what hurt. Actually, it wasn't much bigger than 6" where I spurred in. I quit climbing because my weight was complicating the already existing sweep, and I still had 25 feet of top.

I do have 14 feet of pole saw and a marvin head. I could have lightened the top some, and I still like the idea of tieing back against the lean.
 
Tree Machine said:
A power-ported 346XP, this is really not a difficult saw to climb with. The key is in having a good, stong bungee lanyard.
QUOTE]

Hey TM, being a Stihl man i'm trying to picture the size saw your climbing with. What would be the stihl equivalent?

Trev
 
Lost me treeseer please enlighten...

Quote:
Originally Posted by arboralliance
Can anyone else comment on techniques for reducing whip in removing heads/ends form long stems?
Originally Posted by treeseer
"From the left field bleachers"

Yeah, sure.

leave the chain saw on the ground, and put a polesaw on the dogleash. Climb up to where you want to be, double-tie in. Use polesaw to reduce end as much as possible. Loblolly branches snap off easy so this goes fast.

Reclip polesaw, unsheath sugoi. Spin to side of cut, make notch, start back cut. Spin yourself behind the cut, saw until it's ready to go. Sheath sugoi, brace knees against stem, then push top over sloooooooooooooooowly.
Much Less thrilling, but much less jerking around.

I can't see using a chainsaw for anything under 10" on pine. Why deal with the weight and the risk, not to mention the noise and fumes? But that's just me; I may be in the minority here...
treeseer said:
"Polesaws just don't cut fast enough,

with practice, they are faster, and safer.

"none of my pole saws would reach

get a telescoping polesaw then

"Bigger power bigger abilities.

Bigger risk too, bigger boat anchor to drag up. TM, has that blonde whipped you into cert shape yet?

I'll leave you guys alone now. :bang: I can tell that you're all motorheads, addicted to Power, even when it takes more power to use it than you gain from using it.

Do you have a Tim Taylor poster in your shop?:bowdown:
Quote:
Originally Posted by arboralliance
I concur clearance, at 6" dia as stated by the originator I could (in Australian tall timber forest or such) still be cutting out 20 or 30'+ of head or more ...
Yessir. Spindly rascal, that's what hurt. Actually, it wasn't much bigger than 6" where I spurred in. I quit climbing because my weight was complicating the already existing sweep, and I still had 25 feet of top.

I do have 14 feet of pole saw and a marvin head. I could have lightened the top some, and I still like the idea of tieing back against the lean.

treeseer lost me with that one, surely he is not seriously recommending to cut above ones head, surely?

treeseer, can you enlighten me as to what it is you are suggesting here?

Where would I find this suggestion you are making written in ISA writings/teachings?

Really lost me there treeseer from a safety perspective please fill in the blanks?

Anyone?

(I am gravely concerned that people are taking this advice as scripture...)
 
arboralliance said:
(I am gravely concerned that people are taking this advice as scripture...)

Arbor, I really dont think there is any "Scripture" on what is the best way to handle the unique problems each individual tree can present. Hence, the most excellent value of getting advice from so many experienced people here on Arboristsite. Hearing suggestions from your many different backgrounds gives me more options in how to handle the very unique situations I find in my daily work. No two trees are identical. Each has its hazards. The more options I have in avoiding or dealing with those hazards the better prepared I feel.

You, Clearance, Ekka, and others have given me some very excellent advice on this which I definetly will take, and for which I am very grateful. Treeseer has also given me some very good advice, here and in other threads. Too often people seem to think "Either my way OR his way". I try to never forget the magic of the word "and". There certainly will be many opportunities to use your advice, Clearance' advice, AND Treeseer's advice, and on and on.

I used the Sugoi cleaning up Katrina busted limbs in a very nice white oak yesterday, and frankly, taking some of Treeseer's advice, I was surprised that it handled some of the larger limbs very satisfactorily. But I'm not giving up the 200t.

I have another very whippy loblolly, with even more lean on it, in a backyard in Tchefuncte, in the path of the IPS infestation. I can drop this one without climbing, but it is not hard to see where, if it was leaning directly over the house (and I know of some like I describe in Country Club Estates), I might be able to and might want to piece it down limb by very small limb with the marvin head. Since it is so small at the top, it could be pieced down with a pole saw and (if necessary) lowered with throw line. Since it is such a dramatic leaner, none of the branches would be over my head.

Your warning is well taken. Just putting some numbers on it for analogy, I expect maybe 10 or 15% of a project is getting good advice. The other 85 or 90% may well be in having enough good sense to know where and when to use that advice. That is entirely my responsibility.
 
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"treeseer lost me with that one, surely he is not seriously recommending to cut above ones head, surely?
treeseer, can you enlighten me as to what it is you are suggesting here?
Really lost me there treeseer from a safety perspective please fill in the blanks?"

Using a polesaw above one's head is a lot easier that using a polesaw below one's head, aa. fyi, a polesaw does not have a motor and yes it can be used anywhere, quite safely. I'm not aware of a publication that describes this; it's really too simple to need more explanation. Using a chainsaw on a 6" pine is not safer than using a handsaw.

A polesaw is a big, long toy for boys who are willing to work on trees without burning gasoline. As Fireax noted with his Sugoi use, it can be very efficient. It's even easier to learn than climbing without spikes!
 
after climbing a monster removal with a 3120xp @ 36", one would look at every chance to use hand saws and pole saws.... then again, it would make a 346 seem like a break.
limb to limb as tree to tree as saw to saw.
size matters. ;)
 

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