Question about 044 plates and oiler air vent.

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trouts2

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On the 044 IPL there are two plates listed. The plate on my 044 is 32. The tabs on it
are a pain when taking out the bar studs. Would switching to 31 be ok?

#5 is the oiler vent. Does that come out by punching it through the case into
the oil tank the way it is removed? I assume you just push the new on in its place.

plates.JPG
 
On the 044 IPL there are two plates listed. The plate on my 044 is 32. The tabs on it
are a pain when taking out the bar studs. Would switching to 31 be ok?

#5 is the oiler vent. Does that come out by punching it through the case into
the oil tank the way it is removed? I assume you just push the new on in its place.

View attachment 743696
The tab plates were/are a royal PITA. Switching will be good for your sanity (and the saw won't care).

See the screen shot for the vent.
 

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@Mad Professor I tired punching it through and hitting it pretty hard. It would only go about ¾ through then stop. If I hit harder I thought I would break the case so punched through the reservoir. That got it out. ? Not sure why it would not punch through.

@atpchas OK, thanks. I was not sure so will swap them. Yes, on sanity part. I had oiler problems and had to take out the studs many times which was a royal pain.
 
@Mad Professor I tired punching it through and hitting it pretty hard. It would only go about ¾ through then stop. If I hit harder I thought I would break the case so punched through the reservoir. That got it out. ? Not sure why it would not punch through.

@atpchas OK, thanks. I was not sure so will swap them. Yes, on sanity part. I had oiler problems and had to take out the studs many times which was a royal pain.

Sorry, I am a little late. There is usually no need to replace the oil tank vent. Just spray some carb or brake cleaner through it from the outside in to clean it out. This may or may not be your oiler problem. Oil pumps can get clogged with debris from the tank. Usually it will flush through but sometimes not. Then you have to get creative to flush it out or disassemble the pump.
 
I poked and poked with a couple of thin wires that were fairly strong without success. I could get about 3/4 of the way into the vent. What ever was plugged in there seems solidly jammed. The assembly I was doing that on was the original case that got no oil scored. I'll try flushing with carb spray on the good 044 when I get back in Maine in a couple of days. Thanks.
 
I poked and poked with a couple of thin wires that were fairly strong without success. I could get about 3/4 of the way into the vent. What ever was plugged in there seems solidly jammed. The assembly I was doing that on was the original case that got no oil scored. I'll try flushing with carb spray on the good 044 when I get back in Maine in a couple of days. Thanks.

You shouldn't be able to push anything through the vent... Otherwise it would just be hole! There is a moveable disc inside the vent that will let air in but not let oil out. This is the part that can get gummed up. Take the old one apart and see for yourself.
 
@SteveSr Ah! I thought it was something like a duck bill that could be prodded. The old one is out but I did not notice anything to indicate how it worked. I’ll take a closer look in a couple of days. Again the one I took out was from the original case, now scrap.

The 044 with the new case and engine has the big oil leak and might be a plugged vent. That case sat on a repair guys scrap pile for several years. It might be that the vent is plugged with dried up oil.

Thanks.
 
Finally got around to the 044 vent. I was not able to punch the bent into the oil reservoir. The pictures show the difficulty. Looking into the inside it looks like there are internal case parts that obstruct the vent from getting into the case. Also there is what looks like a metal flange or something at the bottom of the vent port. It may be possible to punch it through on other saws but I don’t think it possible on the cases I have. One is a Stihl and the other a Huztl. Pictures below. On the internal picture you can see part of the vent is under what seems to be the case wall.

The Stihl was ruined by running without oil (not by me). The Huztl was low cost replacement assembly to get the 044 running again. I cut beams so wanted something a bit beefier saw so squeaking by with the Hutzl assembly. The Huztl worked for a short time but got damaged when an alignment pin vibrated into the clutch area. It is being replaced by Huztl.

The rebuilt saw had a big oil leak. I took out the vent and think it is plugged. I can’t blow air through it. I can with the Stihl original although it is hard to blow air through. I’ve heard that a plugged vent will cause an oil leak. I’m not sure but I guess that would be due to pressure buildup causing oil to leak out anywhere it can to relieve pressure. I opened the oil cap to relieve pressure a few times but it still leaked. But that might have been due to oil already leaked into the case internals and dripping out later.

A weird thing that happened when the pin was inside the clutch area. The oil leaking out turned black. The leak was not out of the chain oiler port but someplace else. I’ve never been able to locate the leak. I had replaced the oiler tube and put in a new oiler but the leak was the same. I was test running the saw without a bar. The leak was the same with proper color oil. Then the pin got into the clutch area, the oil started turning black. This happened fairly quickly. The oil ran then the clutch broke and the E-clip and sprocket came off.

My puzzle is what caused the oil to turn black. The pin or clutch broken piece put a hole in the was of the clutch area. That hole goes through to an open area of the saw so not at the oil tank or other place that seemed critical. Any suggestions what could cause the oil to turn black?

Another question:

The Stihl oiler has a groove. Is that for an o-ring?


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