I have been using anti-seize since last season with good results; but last night I noticed a problem that I believe was my own fault. My stove has a latch handle that closes down on a bushing. The assembly is this: a bolt holds on 2 flat washers that "sandwich" a bushing that spins on an "inner sleeve". Well, I know that there should be lube between the bushing and the inner sleeve, but I believe that I put anti-seize between the inner sleeve and the bolt-I believe that this was my mistake, as I found out last night the inner sleeve doesn't spin. The sleeve and the left flat washer were "stuck" onto the bolt-had to put it in a vice and tap it loose. I'm thinking that it doesn't need anti-seize right on the bolt since the sleeve doesn't move and it "caked-on" and burnt tight? Am I on the right track with this-I just put anti-seize on the sleeve so that the bushing spins. Thanks for listening to my ramble! :greenchainsaw:
Question about anti-seize for door latch bushing
- Thread starter PA. Woodsman
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
anti sieze works well---MOST places--but in some instances--it will dry out with enough heat--and become sticky--ssooooo
thenorth
ArboristSite Operative
try Molibedium di sulfide (sp)...
white, very high temp grease..............used on brake parts etc.
john
white, very high temp grease..............used on brake parts etc.
john
user 19670
ArboristSite Operative
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2007
- Messages
- 310
- Reaction score
- 41
Anti-seize is NOT a lubricant
I just retired from 34 years as an Industrial Mechanic (Millwright) at a local Paper Mill.
We used Anti-seize for years and over those years of use (sometimes properly and sometimes not properly) some things came to light. One that applies here is as follows:
- Anti-seize contains powdered metal (metal filings) which is used as a binding agent to keep the oil in it from disbursing. Would you use metal powder or filings in any lubricant? When used as a lubricant, Anti-seize actually accelerates wear. This product is not for use in bearings of any kind, ball / roller / plain (sleeve) and can cause bearing failure. Bearing failure in sleeve bearings often shows up as seizure and that is exactly what you are describing.
Read the label and you will see that what I said is true.
I just retired from 34 years as an Industrial Mechanic (Millwright) at a local Paper Mill.
We used Anti-seize for years and over those years of use (sometimes properly and sometimes not properly) some things came to light. One that applies here is as follows:
- Anti-seize contains powdered metal (metal filings) which is used as a binding agent to keep the oil in it from disbursing. Would you use metal powder or filings in any lubricant? When used as a lubricant, Anti-seize actually accelerates wear. This product is not for use in bearings of any kind, ball / roller / plain (sleeve) and can cause bearing failure. Bearing failure in sleeve bearings often shows up as seizure and that is exactly what you are describing.
Read the label and you will see that what I said is true.
Uncle Stashu
New Member
I like to use dry lubricant on my stove's door hinges and draft knobs. It's a moly that comes in a spray can. It's good for high temp applications.....
chowdozer
Addicted to ArboristSite
Lock-Ease works good too.
Thanks for the information. From your experience, what would a good product be for metal-on-metal that would hold up to high temperatures?
user 19670
ArboristSite Operative
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2007
- Messages
- 310
- Reaction score
- 41
Good question. On the Lime Kiln we resorted to using graphite and the heat involved on a Rotary Kiln is comparable to what you will get with any woodstove. Anything with a petroleum base (oil or grease) will burn and turn to carbon at those temps.
Unfortunately applying graphite might mean taking the latch off first and that is not an option in this cold weather. There used to be an applicator with powdered graphite available for speedometer cables so you might be able to find one at the local car parts store and use it without dismantling the latch.
I used to take it apart and use graphite but that didn't seem to last very long; that's what lead me onto this "search" for another product. I appreciate ALL of you guys for your replies! :greenchainsaw:
Freakingstang
Doctor Freakinstein
They make high temp never sieze. IT is pricey but works well.
If antiseize isn't a lubricant, why does it say that it lubricates threads and whatnot while keeping the bolts removable?
If antiseize isn't a lubricant, why does it say that it lubricates threads and whatnot while keeping the bolts removable?
I guess the question would be. How tight would have it been without the Anti-seize. In injection molding, blow molding, compresson molding exc, exc. They all run with high temp equipment. We always use copper-flake Anti-seize on the screw threads, head bolt threads, and anything elce that was going to see high temps. You always knew when someone did'nt use Anti-seize. The only way you could get it apart, was to brake stuff.
Are anti-seize and never-seize basically the same product or are they different?
Freakingstang
Doctor Freakinstein
smae thing as far as I know, just differant terminoligy. There are a lot of brands out there that are basically the same chemical coumpound. The High temp, htough I have only seen it in permatex and maybe one other brand.
Heck, Napa has their own line of never/anti seize. lol
Maybe I should make my own called.....
never-Freaking-seize! lol
:greenchainsaw:
user 19670
ArboristSite Operative
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2007
- Messages
- 310
- Reaction score
- 41
Lubricating threads is very different than lubricating bearings.
Anyway, you now have what I know from my experience. Do what you will and no matter what you choose -- have fun.
We had many horror stories with failed bearings, burned up pumps and gearboxes, seized bellcranks, etc. until the failures were traced to the misuse of Anti-Seize.
I really haven't much more to add so I will bow out now.
treemandan
Tree Freak
How do they make Anti- Sieze? They take away her medication! That is sadly the best joke I know. The best part about it is that its not the punchline that I find funny. Its the agony.
Not to make light: Gordie is a lubrication specialist. Here is som more insight as to what it is good for and why it should be used ( sometimes).
Basically it is made up of nickle( or another very malleable metal) and some other goo. Nickle does not rust though I am sure your lug studs and nuts do. It is used on fasteners which require low speed turning to operate as opposed to bearings that need clean oil to spin at high speeds all the time. There are many diferent heat ranges so make sure you use the right one.
It will make nuts and bolts not seize. It is good to use it on things like spring bushings to keep the through- bolts from seizing over time, a long time. If you use a through-bolt and there are threads sticking out from the nut side, put some on there to. On Ford trucks with the washers on the lug nut it is good to squish the anti-sieze between, actually its nessasary. It is good to put some on when putting on a slip fit brake rotor or drum. Put it where the wheel hub flange so the rotor comes of easy next time. Also between the rims of dually trucks where they meet. It is not really for moving parts. If you find it is too thick cut it with trans fluid.
If you have ever been through getting the wheels off the truck and they won't, use it before you put it together. Do not use on internal engine parts or fasteners. It is good for thermostat housings bolts, water pump bolts, and things of that nature.
Not to make light: Gordie is a lubrication specialist. Here is som more insight as to what it is good for and why it should be used ( sometimes).
Basically it is made up of nickle( or another very malleable metal) and some other goo. Nickle does not rust though I am sure your lug studs and nuts do. It is used on fasteners which require low speed turning to operate as opposed to bearings that need clean oil to spin at high speeds all the time. There are many diferent heat ranges so make sure you use the right one.
It will make nuts and bolts not seize. It is good to use it on things like spring bushings to keep the through- bolts from seizing over time, a long time. If you use a through-bolt and there are threads sticking out from the nut side, put some on there to. On Ford trucks with the washers on the lug nut it is good to squish the anti-sieze between, actually its nessasary. It is good to put some on when putting on a slip fit brake rotor or drum. Put it where the wheel hub flange so the rotor comes of easy next time. Also between the rims of dually trucks where they meet. It is not really for moving parts. If you find it is too thick cut it with trans fluid.
If you have ever been through getting the wheels off the truck and they won't, use it before you put it together. Do not use on internal engine parts or fasteners. It is good for thermostat housings bolts, water pump bolts, and things of that nature.
