I used long bolts and the case bolt holes to draw the case halves together. Did not have to heat them to get the old case off so no need to heat them to get the new one on.
Rebuilding the 372XP
- Thread starter Roanoker494
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
I used long bolts and the case bolt holes to draw the case halves together. Did not have to heat them to get the old case off so no need to heat them to get the new one on.
Boskaerm
ArboristSite Guru
Okay, but you installed the crank, with the bearings in the cases, right?
Yep, the bearings press into the case a lot tighter than they do onto the crank. Your not going to be able to just push the halves together by hand but it does not take that much force. The 372xp shop manual states that you should heat the crankcase to 200 degrees to install the bearings, let it completely cool and then use tool number 502 50 30-14 to pull the crankshaft into the bearings. The tool basically screws onto the crankshaft threads, clutch or flywheel threads, and draws the crank into one bearing at a time. I find that using the crankcase bolts works just as well and you don't have to buy a $60 specialty tool.
Here is that shop manual if you are interested, the crankcase is covered towards the end of the manual.
http://www.gardening-tools-direct.co.uk/content/husqwm273_hwen2000_1019061-26.pdf
Last edited:
homelitejim
Full of Scrap
You are really coming along on that 372, good quality pics too.
Thank you, always nice to have your work appricated. I can not really take credit for the the quality of the pictures because, the camera did all the work. There would have been more pictures but I was playing musical batteries, I stole the batteries out of every remote in the house to get the few pictures I have now. I made me a kill wire for the saw but now the dang power swich is broken. I got the kill wire installed and everything was looking good until the switch made a odd feeling click, it still works but has almost no resistance. Good thing the switches are fairly cheap and a regularly stocked item.
It has been a while since I updated this thread, completely forgot to post the final pictures.
Finally painted that clutch cover and put the new decal on. I will have to say that the Valspar Husky orange looks good to me. I also fixed the threads in the fuel tank so I could use the oem handlebar bolts.
Found a better looking muffler and a inner bucking spike. I picked up a can of the high temp black paint and I plan to spray the muffler here shortly.
Finally painted that clutch cover and put the new decal on. I will have to say that the Valspar Husky orange looks good to me. I also fixed the threads in the fuel tank so I could use the oem handlebar bolts.
Found a better looking muffler and a inner bucking spike. I picked up a can of the high temp black paint and I plan to spray the muffler here shortly.
Last edited:
It has been a while since I updated this thread, completely forgot to post the final pictures.
Finally painted that clutch cover and put the new decal on. I will have to say that the Valspar Husky orange looks good to me. I also fixed the threads in the fuel tank so I could use the oem handlebar bolts.
Found a better looking muffler and a inner bucking spike. I picked up a can of the high temp black paint and I plan to spray the muffler here shortly.
back from the dead. nice restore.
did you ever upgrade to unlimited coil?
Never did mess with changing the coil. The "limit" on the coil is something like 13,300 and the saw will never even come close to that while cutting. I don't see where the unlimited coil has any advantages, short of making it a bit easier to tune.
NORMZILLA44
Addicted to ArboristSite
Nice looking project, and progress. NOS, that is a good question. Im with ya.
true. so whats your final tally on the 372 project? 400? :msp_ohmy:
sunfish
Fish Head
Super nice job on the 372xp !!!
Why?? You looking to make me a offer??
:hmm3grin2orange:
I believe I will keep that small bit of info to myself in case I decide to sell it. I will say that I would not even considering selling it for what I have invested.
Pulled the muffler for a quick paint job today, turned out pretty darn nice IMO. I used the Krylon high temp BBQ/stove paint that claims to handle up to 1200 degrees, got it at Wally World for around $4. This paint dries extremely quick, only took about a minute before I could handle it without damage and I installed it within 5 minutes of the last coat.
EDIT:
Now that I look at the picture closer I should have hit the bolt tubes with a little paint, I will be fixing that later.
MacLaren
Addicted to ArboristSite
Nice thread!
Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
Johnnie is so good he installed a functioning reverse gear
.Nice work, Johnnie, thanks for the thread & the photos. I'll rep you if the software will let me :msp_confused:.
Can't believe I did that......... I just slapped the bar and chain on for the photo opt and I had not paid a bit of attention to the orientation of the chain.
The temp was in the triple digits the day I painted the muffler, I believe the "baked on" has been taken care of already.
The instructions on the paint can specified not to heat the paint before it was fully cured, evidently the paint is designed to "bond" best without heat. Johnnie is so good he installed a functioning reverse gear
Nice work, Johnnie, thanks for the thread & the photos. I'll rep you if the software will let me :msp_confused:.
Dang straight......... The first saw that throws the chips away from the operator instead of all over his feet, though it may end up proving to cause a mild kickback issue.........
newmexico
ArboristSite Operative
First, nice to see an abused saw fixed up and running again looks real nice.
Second, I'm curious as to what you did to fix up those threads so you could use the proper size bolt again.
