Received the Englander 28-3500 wood furnace yesterday

[Whitespider]

I assume i cant over heat the metal duct without the gas furnace blower to cool the plenum down right? The ductwork is from 1985 so it should be heavy duty.

Your ducting should be fine (should be)... unless you over fire or overheat the wood furnace.
I believe (if I'm remembering correctly) a minimum rating of 200° is "standard"... the metal will handle much more than that, it's more about clearances to combustibles I think.
*

 

[aaronmach1]

Your ducting should be fine (should be)... unless you over fire or overheat the wood furnace.
I believe (if I'm remembering correctly) a minimum rating of 200° is "standard"... the metal will handle much more than that, it's more about clearances to combustibles I think.
*

thanks, i thought ive read 200 degrees on here before but i couldnt remember for sure.

 

[flotek]

A lot of people cheat Recommended clearances on ducting because they think it doesn't get hot enough to cause any fire issue and for the most part that's true but those recommendations are there for a reason they are listed for extreme circumstances in an over heat situation like if the power goes and you have a hundred pounds of red oak blazing away in your furnace with no blower operation. ..not normal operation

 

[OnTheRoad]

Glad to see you having good luck with your new Englander. In my predicament, an add-on furnace is probably the best option, and the Englander seems like a solid unit at a great price. Have you seen the youtube videos where people have added secondary burn circuits to these stoves? It looks like a significant improvement.

 

[aaronmach1]

yes, this furnace is working out very good now!!! 40 mile an hour winds at below zero and im easily at 76f in here. Dont even have to crank it up to maintain a steady 76f all day. Very good overnight burns way better than my old unit. Finally learning the unit and how to work it the best.
Ya, i have seen the secondary burn you tube videos but im not buying into it. Also not going to hack up my new furnace. Anyway im already seeing a secondary burn of sort above the normal fire. Watching mine through the window looks like the same effect the guys has in the videos with the tubes. So are his modifications working? Maybe for him but for me mine is working great as is.

 

[OnTheRoad]

That's interesting re; the secondary burn in your unit. As with just about every other piece of equipment, one user loves his and the next loathes it. Some Englander owners complain about short burn times but others, like you, have no problem running it over night. That's a primary concern here, as I am away from the house all day during the week.

Does anybody have the firebox dimensions?

 

[mopar969]

In the description part is the firebox dimensions here:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Englande...Add-On-Furnace-28-3500/100185844?N=5yc1vZc4ky

I have the englander 30 and it has been junk for me from the get go. Needless to say I am looking at buying the englander furnace.
I should have done this form the beginning but I was convinced that the epa stove would save me on wood no its not.

Anyone want to trade their englander furnace for my 30?

 

[mopar969]

Also,
aaronmach1 what is your chimney setup? bends height lined masonry etc...

It is good to hear you are getting easy burn times I think your draft setting then is ideal also you still running it with the flue pipe damper?

 

[flotek]

The nc 30 Is great .. It's known for its ability to throw heat and get 10 hour burns however it requires really dry wood .. One thing I miss about my old Englander furnace is that it was not picky on wood seasoning much you can get good results with half seasoned wood if you give her a little more air . An EPA furnace just plain sucks with half seasoned wood if it will even stay going. My new one burns longer but the Englander oughta get 8 hrs if packed up with the good stuff . The People complaining are usually newbies to wood heat or they are too dumb to understand how the air control works and run it wide open and just torch their wood off in a couple hours. The Englander can get a little secondary action if it's burning really hot and the top slide is open to half it isn't true secondary burning like if you had dedicated air coming into burn tubes

 

[mopar969]

Thats part of my problem with 21 22% wood the 30 will not even get past like 300 for me I think that is crazy but then again my chimney does not have a strong draft too so it has to go.

However, it makes me wonder what the chimney setup is for the OP since he is getting a secondary combustion in firebox which is good.

 

[alleyyooper]

I also have the England 28 3000. I love this furnace compared to my 30 plus year old unit it replaced. My stove pipe goes into the 30 plus year old double wall non insulated chimney use of one 90 degree elbow and with no stove pipe damper per England recommendations when I called and asked since it wasn't in the owners manual. I am burning seasoned Ash and keep the coldest room in the house at 78F even during the 28 below wind chill days with out even turning on the blower. Of course my house is well insulated being built in 79 for electric heat. I get all night burns on those really cold nights but fill it earlier at 6:00 AM instead of at 8:00 AM on our normal winter temps. I get all day burns with it by filling with a big round I can handle then packing smaller stuff around the round. Shut it tight and return 10 hours latter to a nice bed of coals and a warm house.
After 4 month of use I would buy the same unit again just like how ell it works.
I would not mess with it either, happy with the performance as is.

Al

 

[mopar969]

Hey,
alleyyooper what is the height of you chimney? Just curios since you are getting great results.

 

[alleyyooper]

It starts at the basement ceiling goes thru the first floor ceiling then about 4 foot of attic and about 3 feet over the roof . I have a roof picture some place I will attempt to find. OH! Did I mention no cresol? None Nada.



I had started to rake the insulation off the roof so I wouldn't get a dumb ice dam from the gutters.

Al

 

[zogger]

It starts at the basement ceiling goes thru the first floor ceiling then about 4 foot of attic and about 3 feet over the roof . I have a roof picture some place I will attempt to find. OH! Did I mention no cresol? None Nada.



I had started to rake the insulation off the roof so I wouldn't get a dumb ice dam from the gutters.

Al

The broiler houses here have snow doors. These are trap doors that open the ceiling so heat can get directly to the metal roofs and melt the snow and ice off. They started adding them to houses after storm of the century in 93 when so many got damaged from ice buildup.

 

[aaronmach1]

lovin this englander 28-3500! working great. I did recently clean the chimeny and it had a small amount of creosote which was the most ive had in my 4 yrs of burning. So i quit using the flue damper in the stove pipe problem solved. Awesome burns.
My chimeny is about 18 foot tall id guess. One story house with basement. Wood burner is in basment. Masonary chimeny with 8x12 or so clay liner and then i put a stainless steel 6x8 or so liner in it.
i have around 5ft of stove pipe leading to the chimney in basement. With 2 slight angles and then once into the chimeny there is a 90degree bend and staight up the chimeny it goes.
see page one of this post thread for couple pics of it installed in my basement.

 

[ziggo_2]

I have a anti-backdraft damper in the ducts for each furnace....i strongly recommend them! The 8'' round ones can be bought the other one is custom made, by a company (cant remember name) but i went through crappie keith from yukon furnaces, just gave him the measurments and sent a check, arrived at my door in a week or 2. excellent quality!....but a good hvac guy should be able to get one made for you. Both the dampers i have open by force of air and close automatically.

I dont know about your furnace but...the hvac guy that replaced one of those heat sensors told me the reason it went out is because they are not meant to be tripped on a regular basis, they can only be tripped so many times and then they fail. That is why you need a quality damper to block the air flow!

As for your flue temps.....those magnetic temp gauges are JUNK! They are NOT accurate!

 

[aaronmach1]

I dont know about your furnace but...the hvac guy that replaced one of those heat sensors told me the reason it went out is because they are not meant to be tripped on a regular basis, they can only be tripped so many times and then they fail.

well i must have a good one. This house was setup this way way before i owned it. Was built in 1982 and this is the 3rd wood furnace set up this way in this house with the same lp furnace and ductwork.

 

[ziggo_2]

well i must have a good one. This house was setup this way way before i owned it. Was built in 1982 and this is the 3rd wood furnace set up this way in this house with the same lp furnace and ductwork.

if its an older furnace they handle the heat much better but you will still be more efficient if you had those dampers

 

[Woodchucker Ron]

I have a anti-backdraft damper in the ducts for each furnace....i strongly recommend them! The 8'' round ones can be bought the other one is custom made, by a company (cant remember name) but i went through crappie keith from yukon furnaces, just gave him the measurments and sent a check, arrived at my door in a week or 2. excellent quality!....but a good hvac guy should be able to get one made for you. Both the dampers i have open by force of air and close automatically.

I dont know about your furnace but...the hvac guy that replaced one of those heat sensors told me the reason it went out is because they are not meant to be tripped on a regular basis, they can only be tripped so many times and then they fail. That is why you need a quality damper to block the air flow!

As for your flue temps.....those magnetic temp gauges are JUNK! They are NOT accurate!

I tried to tell him that on page 2.