Red Maple Problem; need advise!

[lck]

Hi, I have a nice red maple, about 25 years old (I guess). It has a crotch at
about 6 feet up where the tree trunk splits into two sections and continues
on up to about 30 feet high. There is a small cavity at the split, which holds
about a cup of water. Also at the split is a 6 inch crack, running from the crotch downward.

I have attached a drawing of the problem. I have a plan to "fix" the tree because I don't want to loose it. At this point it is healthy, but vulnerable to the wind which we occasionally get here in MA.

I would propose to put eye bolts through the trunks about 2 feet above the split, with chain between them so they can flex. Then tighten them up snug so that the tree will not have any more pressure on the crack. Then I would fill the cavity with something like hydraulic cement, which will firm up and keep water from sitting there and rotting the trunk.

I'm not an arborist, just a home owner with a tree that needs help. I'd appreciate any comments concerning this issue. I don't want to do anything that will make the problem worse.

Thank you very much,

larry.k

 

[ddhlakebound]

Hi, I have a nice red maple, about 25 years old (I guess). It has a crotch at
about 6 feet up where the tree trunk splits into two sections and continues
on up to about 30 feet high. There is a small cavity at the split, which holds
about a cup of water. Also at the split is a 6 inch crack, running from the crotch downward.

I have attached a drawing of the problem. I have a plan to "fix" the tree because I don't want to loose it. At this point it is healthy, but vulnerable to the wind which we occasionally get here in MA.

I would propose to put eye bolts through the trunks about 2 feet above the split, with chain between them so they can flex. Then tighten them up snug so that the tree will not have any more pressure on the crack. Then I would fill the cavity with something like hydraulic cement, which will firm up and keep water from sitting there and rotting the trunk.

I'm not an arborist, just a home owner with a tree that needs help. I'd appreciate any comments concerning this issue. I don't want to do anything that will make the problem worse.

Thank you very much,

larry.k

Since it's holding water, I'd guess that it only appears cracked or the water would drain. Many times an included bark junction will look much like a crack.

You've got the right idea (sort of), but the placement needs to be much higher to support the junction. The guideline is 2/3 of the height from the fault to the top. So if the junction is at 6', and the tree is 30' tall, the cable should be installed around 22' in height.

Installing a chain 2' above the crotch would likely cause the failure to be at that point sometime in the (near or distant) future.

DO NOT add anything in an attempt to displace the water, more harm than good by adding foreign material.

If the trunk really is cracked, then a steel bracing rod along with the cable is in order.

There are a few pics on my cabling and bracing page, just follow the link in my sig.

 

[lck]

Red Maple Problem

Thanks for the reply! I'm glad to know where to put
the chain which will be much higher than I originally planned.
Thank you for that info.

I'll check out your weblink.

larry.k

 

[S Mc]

Larry, could you post pictures of the actual tree?

The usual goal when installing a cable or brace in a tree is to limit the movement, and this is certainly the case when there is a crack or other defect. You don't want play or slack.

Industry standards on co-doms with included bark or crack state that a 10" dbh tree should have two braces, using 1/2" rod. The one brace would be through the trunk where the split is and the other above the crotch. The placement for this brace would be determined by measuring one of the co-doms. For instance is the co-dom is 6" then you would place the 2nd rod between 6 and 12" above the crotch.

Cable(s) are then usually installed above a brace job, 2/3 the distance from the crotch to the top of the tree.

I'm not a fan of using chain in a tree as a brace or cable. The old saying "a chain is only as strong as its weakest link". The reason cables are recommended is their relative strength, 5/16" EHS cable is rated for over 11,000 lbs. They are visually discrete, fairly easy to inspect for integrity, and relatively inexpensive.

Sylvia

 

[lck]

Red Maple Fix

Thanks Sylvia for the helpful info. I'll take some photos tomorrow
and put them up on this thread. That might help me determine
if the crack is real, or just the way that the bark has grown.
I could use some help determing that also, it looks cracked to me!
might also help me figure out why the water sits there in that
"bowl" in the middle of the crotch.

Yes, I'll use cable instead of chain, cable is less obvious and
more strenght is always welcome.

Thanks again,
larry.k

 

[Bermie]

Do not fill the hole or 'cup' with anything!!!
Fillings just make the situation worse.
Check the thread 'how to fill a hole' in the climbing forum...some good comments there.

 

[lck]

Red Maple Problem

Hi All, Thanks Bermie, I'll check that link.
Here's some photos I just took. The water has evaporated, and the hole seems to hold about 2 cups full of water. The crack may well be just a "seam" between the two big trunks. I have some more shots looking up into the tree above the crotch if you guys want to look. Anyway, here's some of the crotch itself for now. Thanks to you all for the help. larry.k

 

[treeseer]

:agree2: with Bermie on the "hole"--just hose out the crud now and then.

attached

 

[Bermie]

Yes, post some shots of the whole tree, and the canopy.

It's hard to give definitive advice over the internet...an arborist needs to see the whole picture, including the surrounding area, soil etc to render an opinion...

For what its worth, your cup and crotch appear stable to me and there is no need to fiddle with it, the tree is managing it on its own, look how old and large it is and there are no fresh splits or cracks that would indicate recent movement...HOWEVER...there are some old pruning wounds below it that may factor into the equation when developing a management plan for your tree...again an arborist on site would look at the WHOLE tree and its surroundings, before suggesting a plan of action.

 

[lck]

More Shots of the tree

Yes, post some shots of the whole tree, and the canopy.

It's hard to give definitive advice over the internet...an arborist needs to see the whole picture, including the surrounding area, soil etc to render an opinion...

For what its worth, your cup and crotch appear stable to me and there is no need to fiddle with it, the tree is managing it on its own, look how old and large it is and there are no fresh splits or cracks that would indicate recent movement...HOWEVER...there are some old pruning wounds below it that may factor into the equation when developing a management plan for your tree...again an arborist on site would look at the WHOLE tree and its surroundings, before suggesting a plan of action.

I'm attaching two full shots of the tree. It sits very close to the service lines for the house, as shown in one of the photos. It is also about 20 feet away from a line of pines which will be cut this summer as they are too big to be safe anymore and too close to the house. The tree sits in about 2 ft. of soil, and then sand below that. The property is on a bed of sand that runs down at least 8 feet deep (I know that from a basement excavation project we did three years ago). Thanks everyone for your advise.

 

[lck]

:agree2: with Bermie on the "hole"--just hose out the crud now and then.

attached

Thanks Treeser for the photo with comments! I'm printing that right now, I'll take care of the "stub" that was left from a trimming. I think I will run a cable up high on the two trunks just to protect the crotch a bit.

Thanks, larry.k