Refinishing Tool/Knife Handles

[svk]

Ok, I know linseed oil is the standard but I've heard people have also had good results with vegetable oil? What do you recommend?

What grit sandpaper should I use? I have a couple dozen kitchen/steak knives and a couple axe handles I'd like to do soon.

 

[Creeker]

TUNG OIL is a nice oil finish svk, I use it on any untreated furniture like a Euc. hardwood coffee table, cutting boards etc and wouldn't hesitate to use it on knife handles.

Re finish, axe handles I'd leave semi rough, don't like 'em to slippery.

Won't be suitable for dish washers of course but I'm sure you know that.

A quick google just suggested it's available in the US.

 

[kevin j]

Boiled linseed oil and 1/3 to 1/2 turpentine
Works well on cane seats and rattan also
Keep applying every day until it stops soaking in

I have also heard that drilling a 3/8 inch diameter hole about 6 inches deep, on the handle end OPPOSITE the head or blade, filling it with the same mix, and adding a brass threadedc plug or a cork. Holds the oil in a mini reservoir and soaks into the grains slowly.
I have used 1/8 NPT brass plugs, and do see it disappear over a year, but not sure if it is helping the wood or not.

 

[DIETERK]

Ok, I know linseed oil is the standard but I've heard people have also had good results with vegetable oil? What do you recommend?

What grit sandpaper should I use? I have a couple dozen kitchen/steak knives and a couple axe handles I'd like to do soon.

I do not post much here, but use the forum a lot and am happy to contribute to this thread. I have refinished most of my tool handles with boiled linseed oil. I use the Allback brand as it is organic. The store-bought stuff has chemical driers in it that make it unsafe to touch without gloves. While expensive, I can apply this by hand and avoid wasting rags and gloves.

Most tools have varnish on them. I first use a cabinet scraper to remove the varnish, then work over the handle with 100-grit sandpaper. They sell rolls of sandpaper with the sticky back for automotive body workers and this works great for tool handles. After sandpaper, I use a 4-in-1 tool to rough up the base of the handle for grip. I then wipe the handles down to get the dust off and apply boiled linseed oil by hand. I then leave the tool sit outside for a few hours and wipe away any excess oil on the handle with a piece of paper towel, then dispose of the paper towel in the fire pit. Boiled linseed oil soaked rags are a high fire hazard. If needed you can do multiple coats, but I usually just do one coat and apply a fresh coat annually when I clean/put the tools away for the fall.

I have done all my tools in this way and have been happy with the results: the handles feel better to use, there is a reduced chance of blisters and using the 4-in-1 to rough up the bottom of the handles makes them much easier to hold.

I learned most of this from watching this video on youtube:



I got the idea for the automotive sandpaper from Wranglerstar's youtube videos.

I have not tried vegetable oil, but have tried raw linseed oil and was not happy with it. Raw linseed oil takes forever to dry.

As a note, sometimes you find an old tool that has the handle "ridged" from aging. You cannot sand these ridges out, but I have used a sharp #4 plane to take out the ridges and then sand it down. I did this for an ancient flat-nose shovel and it saved me from replacing the handle.

 

[svk]

So 100 grit on the axe handles but I'm assuming a little finer for the knives?

 

[tla100]

I have used 1/3 turpentine, 1/3 BLO, snd 1/3 beeswax on an old Enfield rifle. Maybe a little less on the beeswax, I forget. It turned out great. Applied with lint free rag and rubbed in.

Although some reviews say no beeswax. Mine is not sticky.

Heard tung oil is tops too. I might have to try some

 

[dor-moor hands]

I use olive oil on the carbon blade and handle of my skinning knife. I can post pics later when I get home. I went with the olive oil so it would be a little safer on game I am eating. I have heard it can get rancid but I have been using it for over a year with good results

 

[pweber]

So 100 grit on the axe handles but I'm assuming a little finer for the knives?

Are you using sandpaper to get the original varnish or poly off the handles? Having restored loads of furniture and tons of vintage hand tools in a previous life, I have to say that I'd skip sandpaper all together. Use stripper if necessary - especially on your fancy (rosewood?) knife handles. It might be a pain in the butt, but you'll save the patina and reduce scratching. After soaking in stripper use steel wool to scrub then neutralize the active stripper with denatured alcohol. Then finish them off with mineral oil, and DON'T wash them in the dishwasher. For garden tools linseed oil is fine. The main thing is that if you want your handles to last through eternity you have to constantly reapply whenever the wood feels and looks dry.

 

[svk]

No varnish on any of these. Bare axe handles and the knives have been through the dishwasher so many times they have no protectant left.

 

[pweber]

No varnish on any of these. Bare axe handles and the knives have been through the dishwasher so many times they have no protectant left.

View attachment 454761

Just rub mineral oil into the knife handles and let them dry. Olive oil will go rancid, and tung (as well as most other wood oil) isn't really formulated to be used in the kitchen for butcher blocks etc...

 

[Creeker]

Re Tung oil - butcher/food wooden blocks, agree re not suitable, should have expanded reference in earlier post to
say Bait cutting boards in the boat.

svk, all yr knives will look like that one after probably one dishwasher cycle, not much point really in putting any oil product on the handles is there ? -

 

[svk]

It took dozens of washings to get them to this point from whatever type of oil was rubbed in from the manufacturer. Even if I have to do it a few times a year they will look a lot nicer.

 

[ray benson]

All I ever use is Spar varnish on hammer handles, axes, hatchets, ladders, rakes, shovels and hand saw handles for over 40 years.

 

[Marshy]

Get yourself some Boos Block Mystery Oil.
http://www.amazon.com/John-Boos-Mys...369465&sr=8-1&keywords=boos+oil+butcher+block

Its food grade mineral oil. It works great and wont go rancid.

 

[Iska3]

Marshy has some good advice. Almost any good Butcher Block Oil is your best bet. I use Goddard's Butcher Block Oil on all my cutting boards, knives and the cabbage slicer. My cabbage slicer is 85 years old and lookd so good my son never returned it.. I'm not sure but check Mills Fleet.

 

[Creeker]

"Pure tung is safe for use on wooden toys (EN71 compliant) and kitchen woodwork which contacts foodstuffs."

http://www.tungoil.com.au/

Rainy day, looked this up out of curiosity. Need to be aware of the different additives though.

 

[svk]

I got some butcher block mineral oil today with wax so should work well. Will report on results.

 

[svk]

Did up a dozen knives tonight. The darker wood handles really look good!

Steak knives-treated and untreated.


Kitchen knives. Left one is done.

This one really improved!


This is what I used.

 

[svk]

Here is the axe done with linseed oil.

Before. Looks ok but handle is quite rough.


After 120 grit.


First application of linseed oil.

 

[Ironworker]

Here is the axe done with linseed oil.

Before. Looks ok but handle is quite rough.
View attachment 456134

After 120 grit.
View attachment 456135

First application of linseed oil.
View attachment 456136

Nice.