Eccentric
Mister Wizard
And, it's all your fault. You drug them down here from Iowa.:msp_thumbsup:
I.H. white is a nice off-white color.
I'm partial to IHC red too.
Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)
- Thread starter wampum
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I'm partial to IHC red too.
Mr. Bow Saw
Addicted to ArboristSite
Looks like this is why the spark is weak.
Bendix Scintilla magneto. Not on every corner these days.[/QUO
Yours looks just like the 2MG's
Yours looks just like the 2MG's
More usefull information.
Thanks.
Vibes
Addicted to ArboristSite
Auction alert
Nice Mall 2 man for sale near Pittsburgh. I believe its a 10 A. Can be seen at Find Live & Online Auctions for Antiques, Art, Cars & More at AuctionZip.com Search 15219 inZIP CODE 30 miles. and look for Bill Evans auction service. date is 6/9/12. Auction is in Export Pa. Lots of good chainsaw stuff. Wright, and McColluch shop manuals and a Peerless chain grinder. I can't make this one due to work.
Nice Mall 2 man for sale near Pittsburgh. I believe its a 10 A. Can be seen at Find Live & Online Auctions for Antiques, Art, Cars & More at AuctionZip.com Search 15219 inZIP CODE 30 miles. and look for Bill Evans auction service. date is 6/9/12. Auction is in Export Pa. Lots of good chainsaw stuff. Wright, and McColluch shop manuals and a Peerless chain grinder. I can't make this one due to work.
Mopie Rich.
Now we have spark and 130 psi compression.
Same ole' rings, just not stuck anymore and the spark plug lead is soldered to the coil not twisted.
Hah! Cylinder is painted flat black. Just disappears in there.
Now we have spark and 130 psi compression.
Same ole' rings, just not stuck anymore and the spark plug lead is soldered to the coil not twisted.
Hah! Cylinder is painted flat black. Just disappears in there.
GL-7 is dead in the water.
Broke off the tiny (.003" dia.) wire lead in the coil trying to solder it back on the plug wire terminal. Now, no wire sticking out to work with.
Unless I can find a usable coil, we may have to pass him on.
Broke off the tiny (.003" dia.) wire lead in the coil trying to solder it back on the plug wire terminal. Now, no wire sticking out to work with.
Unless I can find a usable coil, we may have to pass him on.
8433jeff
Aftermarket connoisseur
Now we have spark and 130 psi compression.
Same ole' rings, just not stuck anymore and the spark plug lead is soldered to the coil not twisted.
Hah! Cylinder is painted flat black. Just disappears in there.
I noticed that. "Why did he paint it and not assemble it?":msp_smile:
Fooled you didn't I.:msp_tongue:
He would have been running by yesterday evening except I got one line up in the seal catalog. .010" undersize on the O.D.
ChainFinn
ArboristSite Operative
Like an hour ago, my buddy called me, that his grandpa, has been clearing their farms sheds etc and the guy saw that the oldman threw away, in to the garbage pile,an old chainsaw, and i asked him to save it for me,no matter what it was.
Its an Remington "LogMaster" GL-7, with two tone paint, white and red, complete with bar and chain BUT the carb was missing. I own a never used tillotson HL but i donno what venturi it should have to be used well in conjunction with logmaster. The old plug gives a spark in other chainsaws wire, but i did not get yet a spark, made by the chain itself and i am wondering how to remove teh flywheel as it seems to be in front of ignition parts that i need to check, fix /clean. The engine has reeds valve in nice condition, and the bearings sound and feel quite good, when i played with it.
Worth making it run or should i just put it in my pile of museum stuff :msp_sneaky: ?
Its an Remington "LogMaster" GL-7, with two tone paint, white and red, complete with bar and chain BUT the carb was missing. I own a never used tillotson HL but i donno what venturi it should have to be used well in conjunction with logmaster. The old plug gives a spark in other chainsaws wire, but i did not get yet a spark, made by the chain itself and i am wondering how to remove teh flywheel as it seems to be in front of ignition parts that i need to check, fix /clean. The engine has reeds valve in nice condition, and the bearings sound and feel quite good, when i played with it.
Worth making it run or should i just put it in my pile of museum stuff :msp_sneaky: ?
Hell yes!
Remove the three screws holding the recoil on. Use a thin wall 5/8" socket to remove the fanwheel/flywheel nut. The design pulls the wheel off as you loosen the nut. Under that you will find the magneto. Be very carefull with the coil as after 60+ years the plastic insulation has become fragil. Clean and gap the points to .020".
Check and clean the plug wire connection to the coil as they were twisted together when new but coroaded over the years. Clean and solder the joint.
Pro 88 part numbers correction.
I've reposted my previous entry as I got the p.t.o. side seal number wrong.
Got Mopie Rich running this evening. :biggrinbounce2: Finish with the minor stuff and mount a bar in the morning.
I've reposted my previous entry as I got the p.t.o. side seal number wrong.
Got Mopie Rich running this evening. :biggrinbounce2: Finish with the minor stuff and mount a bar in the morning.
Mr. Bow Saw
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have wanted one of these Bow saws for a long time.
Anyway I had this Mall 6 sitting on the end of my bench for
two years. Last year started to restore it. Once I had it apart
I could see it needed a cylinder, piston and rings. I found the parts
I needed seven months ago but was not in a hurry to start
working on, until I got the Bow bar.
Anyway I had this Mall 6 sitting on the end of my bench for
two years. Last year started to restore it. Once I had it apart
I could see it needed a cylinder, piston and rings. I found the parts
I needed seven months ago but was not in a hurry to start
working on, until I got the Bow bar.
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Wow if a saw can be pretty that one sure is, really great job.
PL/SL fuel line change.
Easiest way to replace the fuel lilne on a PL/SL type is to: Remove the recoil cover, pull the flywheel, take out the top wrap handle screw, separate the oiler line and remove the three #12 screws fastening the tank to the crankcase.
Leave the bar/chain on him and chuck him up in the bench vise.
Easiest way to replace the fuel lilne on a PL/SL type is to: Remove the recoil cover, pull the flywheel, take out the top wrap handle screw, separate the oiler line and remove the three #12 screws fastening the tank to the crankcase.
Leave the bar/chain on him and chuck him up in the bench vise.
Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
Did these parts go to anyone here?
Remington Chainsaw OEM Vintage Antique Collectors Part Lot Mostly NEW NOS Parts | eBay
If yes, let us know what you wound up with.
67, your photos? attachments? are Xs for me.
Remington Chainsaw OEM Vintage Antique Collectors Part Lot Mostly NEW NOS Parts | eBay
If yes, let us know what you wound up with.
67, your photos? attachments? are Xs for me.
Holy cow, how did I miss that auction?? I search at least once a day for 'Remington' in chainsaw parts.
Two new air filters for Bantam types!
The red X's just happen to some for who knows why. Has to be software conflicts. I get them on some posts but not on others.
Hit reply with quote and copy/past the link in your browser.
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Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
I try not post links to auctions that might cause AS members to get into a bidding war. If I spot another good one, I'll send you a PM.
The links are showing as Invalid Attachments when I click on them :dunno:.
The links are showing as Invalid Attachments when I click on them
:dunno:.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Get it Carl. The Boss won't be able to tell once you put it on the shelf with the other Remmys (or does she keep inventory?). Once you cross the threshhold where YOU don't know how many saws you have anymore..................there's no way your better half will be able to keep track of them. I crossed that line a while ago...
