remote throttle and CSM bearing

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harrygrey382

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So I got a chance to do some improvements on my DIY Alaskan. First up was a handle - splaying the arms on the uprights wasn't good, not to mention the vibes. So an old bike and table frame came in handy...
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Next - a hand throttle. I was planning on copying BobL's BIL throttle set up. Then I decided it might be possible to go in earlier on towards the carb. I got one of those cable clamp bolts (a push bike can take a CSM a long way!) from a brake and threaded it over the throttle arm and put a rubber washer on top. Then ground a groove in a washer to stop the cable moving when tightening the whole lot down. It looks like the cable's fowling in the carb body but it runs totally free.
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Then I made a bracket to capture the cable and used a longer bolt to attach it via the front handle mount (cable not tightened here).
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the bottom the the bar clamp was binding. Choice - skids or bearing? Bearing... Happened to find a small one in a skip. It fit snuggly over an M10 bolt.So I spaced the bolt in front of the clamp. I ground a couple of washers down to fit over the balls to keep as much saw dust out as possible (time will tell if it'll be good enough)
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and mounted - I'll slip a ring of inner tube around it
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level with the chain
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lastly, I started on an auxillery oiler.I haven't really needed one yet, but I'm sure I will...
It's a CO2bottle with a spacer welded onto the same style clamp as the height adjusters. I wanted it adjustable on the further upright - seems like a good hold.I need to source the fittings and a valve now. I plan on using aggiewoodbtucher's method of letting itdrip onto the bar - so no bar drilling! That is - if it's still working for him...
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all on
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ok, there we go. Hope you guys like the pics. I now need to get milling!
 
Good work HarryG,

You could get more use out of the bearing/wheel if the vertical position of the wheel was adjustable.

If you look at this picture you will see that a wheel height differs for different positions on the log.
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I understand your skidder was snagging but if you are going to install a wheel then installing an adjustable position one while you are at it makes sense. All you would have to do is make the 10 mm bolt long enough and put a couple of nuts each side.

Cheers
 
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Good work HarryG,

You could get more use out of the bearing/wheel if the vertical position of the wheel was adjustable.

If you look at this picture you will see that a wheel height differs for different positions on the log.

I understand your skidder was snagging but if you are going to install a wheel then installing an adjustable position one while you are at it makes sense. All you would have to do is make the 10 mm bolt long enough and put a couple of nuts each side.

Cheers

Hey that's a good point, didn't even occur to me. I just thought if it was in line with the chain that'd be good enough. I'm thinking of changing it anyway as it takes a good inch or so out of the cutting width, so could bring some adjustment in then...
Thanks for the pointer
 
One more safety related thing about remote throttles, keep the cable as short as possible, If you happen to snag it with the engine running before you know it you can be at WOT.
 
One more safety related thing about remote throttles, keep the cable as short as possible, If you happen to snag it with the engine running before you know it you can be at WOT.
Yeah I think I'll shorten it a bit - but the angles of the cable capture and trigger mean it has to be fairly long for smooth running. I'll tie it down too...
 

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