Replacing carburetor on McCulloch Power Mac 310

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WVBrady

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Hi: I was wondering if you had any tips on reassembly after removing the carburetor. I can (with difficulty) get the bolts through the carburetor mounting flange (which is threaded), but there is no way that I can get the nuts on the back of the bolts. I thought maybe I could take off the fan housing and bolt the carburetor onto it with the eyelet, flange, spring clip, and boot and then try to push the boot onto the intake. Is this possible, or is there a better way?
Thanks,
Brady
 
I remember that the last one I monkeyed with was a real PITA.
I have another one that has the carb off, I'll look at it tomorrow, and see if it jogs my memory.
I think that I screwed the mounting screws in without the carb on, that brought the nuts as clost to the plastic fan housing as possible. Then I unscrewed the screws while pulling on them, that kept them in place.
Then while holding the carb in place, turned the saw on it's side (carb down) and carefully tried to catch the threads on the captive nut.
I'm pretty sure that's how I did it. I'll double check tomorrow and get back to you.
Jim
 
Jim: Thanks for the reply! I am not sure that I even know where the nuts go. I left gas in it many years ago and could not get it started the next year. This is before I knew about Stabil (or maybe before it even existed). I couldn't get it running at that time and just put it back together, but I'm not even sure that I got everything in the right place.

I have a copy of a parts manual, but it doesn't show that level of detail. What purpose do the nuts on the carburetor bolts serve? The flange is threaded, so the bolts will hold the carburetor on without them. Do the nuts go between the inside of the fan housing and the flange?

I am also missing a spacer for the choke plate. When I tightened down the lower carburetor bolt, it made the choke plate hard to move. I tried putting a washer in between the plate and the carburetor, but it still was too much friction.

I wish that I had taken notes when I first took it apart. I would appreciate any detail that you could provide.

Thanks,
Brady

Edit: Found a parts diagram, if that would help in your description:

http://mcculloch.motoruf.de/spell/get_file.php?filepath=/Mipl/pspm310.pdf
 
Last edited:
More info

I bought the carb kit from ebay. The guy that I bought it from says that there aren't any nuts after the flange and said that they must be from someplace else on the saw, such as the horizontal bar. He has rebuilt some of them for his own use and also for sale, so maybe some people just leave those two nuts off.

Brady
 
Checked my 310 last night. Carb removes simply by undoing 2 flathead screws and pulling the carb out, unhooking the throttle cable. Could scarcely be simpler....

J
 
Jim: I am beginning to think that the two nuts must have been on the back side of the plastic fan housing. I remember that after turning the bolts ccw, the carb was still being held to the plastic shroud. I had to take a small wrench to hold the nuts from turning while turning the bolts. I don't see that they are really necessary; maybe they were there to hold the carburetor in place during the original construction. I have thought of gluing them on the case with Goop, because it would hold them temporarily in place, but allow them to be tightened later on.

I soaked the carb in a mixture of Sea Foam, Kroil, and ATF and also used this with a Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner. I have not used this device before, so I don't know if it is any good or not. I put the carb back on, but could not get the saw to run with it, just a few seconds by priming the carb. I got a carb rebuild kit, but have not had time to install it. It will be a while before I can get back to it; my ankle decided to swell up and leave me non-ambulatory.

If you come up with any more info or suggestions, I would appreciate it.

Thanks,
Brady
Thanks
 
You are running into the biggest reason these saws find themselves on the parts pile. This setup is simple, yet to get everything in its place the first time for a guy who hasn't done this 10 times before is a ribbon winning accomplishment. The nuts you describe probaly do go in the case cages somewhere; you have that figured out. If you haven't put new impulse and fuel lines in, I would so you aren't doing this again, as it gets very irritating after awhile. Take heart, you are not getting paid by the hour and don't have to answer to an annoyed customer why it takes so long to tune up these saws.
 
Jeff: Thanks for the response! Where can I get new lines? Is there anything special about these lines, or can I just get comparable lines from some place such as NAPA?

Brady
 
I used Tygon lines and on the impulse one, don't skimp on the wall diameter; its easier to rebuild the saw. On the fuel line, I use whatever size fits through the tank but doesn't collapse totally; 5/32 comes to mind and here you also have to go with the thicker walled stuff so the tank doesn't leak. The fuel line was available on Ordertree, but the Tygon will last as long. You might need a different fuel filter to fit the new line. Also another tip: Clean out the saw case and cooling fins, and also around the coil. At one time I had three of these things, an Eager Beaver 2.1ci, a MacCat, and a Wildcat, which was a 2.3ci. If you are keeping one as a collector, I understand. If you are fixing one to sell or as a favor, I get that too. If you want to cut firewood or use this saw as a limber on a regular basis, you are finding out why I used to have three, and now own none.
 
If memory serves me correctly, install the impulse line, then the case half with the intake manifold. Make sure its still in good shape and not torn or too stiff. I used a needlenose, you have to, nothing else fits and tried to position that silly hose clamp so I could kinda need to move only one side of it to position it. I left the fuel line slightly longer than needed on the carb end to ease the rejoining of the halves. Then make sure the ring is in the manifold when you get ready to install the carb. If you move the throttle to wide open the throttle latch goes on easier, and make sure the choke operates as you tighten everything up. I think I have spares for everything but the coil and the manifold hose, and maybe still have one of those. Take your time and keep track of whats left so you don't leave something out.
 

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