Replacing chain tensioner on McCulloch ProMac 600 series (aka on the inside of the bar)?

[jtracy1223]

I have a McCulloch eager Beaver 3.7. Basically a proMac 610 but i think this applies to any of the promac 600 line. Had the saw for years but it starts every summer to cut enough wood for bonfires for the kid. Besides replacing the fuel filter and lines every few years and the Air filter once or twice it has strong compression and is a workhorse (and probably weighs as much as the horse too)

So enough backstory: yesterday when i pulled it out to clean up up for the year i pulled the bar and (surely threw no fault of own ) bumped the tensioner screw and bent it just enough that it doesn't go back in very well. I may be able to force it but I'd rather just put in a new screw and maybe the nub that contact bar to tension it. It was getting dark and i was working on my back deck and was a little p*$$ed so I just put it away and thought there was probably a video or walk threw on what to do (no such luck). Only had a few before my kids game so i wasn't able to tell if i could just back it out and install a new one or if i was going to have to pull the clutch and other parts. I feel like the bolt should back out but getting that little nub that rides on it to tension the bar, in/out may be a challenge hey buddy familiar with this process?

 

[heimannm]

Everything you need to know is shown right here.



The most difficult part of the task is holding the nut while you back out the screw. The bar adjust nut (dog) will just lift out once the screw is removed.

I don't know where you are in Iowa but if you can make it to Dike we could take care of in in about 10 minutes. I have NOS adjuster parts on hand.

Mark

 

[jtracy1223]

Thanks Mark. Thats very kind of you but im near the quad cities so we are a bit far apart. But the offer proves there are still good people in the world.

How difficult is it to replace the bar adjust nut well replacing the tensioner bolt? I ordered the bolt and it comes with the adjustment nut. Seems like i would have to pull the clutch to get to everything. Not scared of the job, but never done it before so I wanted to be sure i was on the right track

 

[heimannm]

It would be easier to access the nut with the clutch off but certainly it would be possible to replace the adjuster screw and nut with the clutch in place.

Mark

 

[jtracy1223]

It would be easier to access the nut with the clutch off but certainly it would be possible to replace the adjuster screw and nut with the clutch in place.

Mark

Thanks for the help. Pulled the cluch and associated parts behind it. Glad i did. My big fumble fingers would have never been able to get it with the cluch in place. Only regret was after i was done i wish i would have left the old tensioner bolt. The part was sold as oem and i couldn't tell any difference but the original bolt looked slightly better. But its probably just tolerance at the factory. I had my mind on not knocking that roller bearing off the bench . But it all went smoothly. As you can see those darn kids vandalized my bolt . Lol