If you have to grind the shank of the tooth to get it to fit, your pockets need to replaced . the front of those pockets do get buggered up a little . A file will solve that problem for the short term, but eventually the pocket has to be replaced. Like Stumper and Dada have said the tooth should slide right in.
If you have a real stubborn tooth, remove the pocket with the tooth, put the pocket on top of a vise with the jaws open enough for the tooth to go between the jaws, then use a 3/8 th's drive extension and knock the tooth out and down through the jaws of the vise with a hammer. The 3/8th's drive extension fits right down into the slot of the pocket and butts up nice to the rear end of the tooth. Clean the pocket up good after that and file if needed.
I know 135 to 150 lbs is the right torque, but to me that is too much, or seems to be too much, a cylinder head on an engine isn't torqued that much. I use a long 3/4 in drive breaker bar with a 3/4 to 1/2 adapter for the Allen wrench and tighten as much as I can, you can feel the bolts seat in after you do it a jillion times. I carry a spare bar and teeth and a gauge with me when I do stumps in case disaster hits on the job and have change some teeth, you have to be able to get them undone out on the job, I don't use air tools just those hand tools and keep the pockets and bolts in good shape, never had a big problem having teeth come out if a tooth does come out the pockets are in need of replacing or the wheel is gouged. I have never measured the torque I am probaly close but this has always worked for me.
Another thing that might work is those pockets can be reversed, I don't do it but they are made to be reversed.
Good luck
Larry