Replacing Teeth

[copper86]

Hi ,

I have recently purchased a carlton 2000 walk behind grinder. What is the best way to press the new teeth into the pockets? Thanks and i love the site.
Mike

 

[Dadatwins]

Contact Carlton manufacturing at www.stumpcutters.com and request an owners manual for your equipment. Read the manual and understand the dangers of the equipment before operating it. Good luck with your machine.

 

[copper86]

Thanks for the reply, I already have the owners manual and read it fuly and understand it. I need ti know the best way to pres the teeth into the pocket. It does not state that in there. Thanks Mike

 

[Dadatwins]

I am assuming you have the 2 piece tooth and pocket. 1/2" square tooth slides into slot in pocket. Best method of changing this type is to completely remove the pocket wire brush any debris away squirt of wd-40 in the pocket groove set the tooth in and reassemble. You will have to gauge that style teeth before tightening. Use a product called never-seize on the caps screw threads before putting them back together. If you do not completely remove the pocket and tooth each time debris will build up in there and you will not be able to tighten them down properly. You also risk damaging the mounting wheel because the tooth will shift while cutting and gouge the wheel. The teeth do not press in to the slot on the pocket they should simply slide in. Sometimes the pockets or teeth get some rust on them but the wire brush and wd-40 should help. I prefer the one piece rayco style teeth for my machine, much easier to work with.

 

[Stumper]

As Dadatwins, has indicated-the teeth should slide into the loose pocket(In contrast to his instructions I have had excellent success for over a dozen years simply loosening the bolts, sliding the old teeth out, running a screwdriver into the empty pocket to knock out dirt and chips packed in there, shaking the pocket a bit and blowing into the hole, slipping a tooth in and out a couple times then installing both teeth into the loose pocket, adjusting for depth and tightening the bolts evenly.

If you had the misfortune of purchasing some Chinese made replacement teeth they MAY NOT fit the pockets correctly and refuse to slide in and out. Properly speced teeth and pockets interface easily and the tooth is held securely by friction when the bolts are tightened.(Official torque specifications vary but generally "tighter'n hell, then 3 more rounds" comes close enough.

 

[copper86]

thans guys for the replys. Did just what you said yesterady Dadatwins and the teeth still had to be ground a little to fit the pocket but i did use never sieze ad the whole nine. Stumper tighter then hell is an undeerstatment per the owners manual 150 ft lb of tourqe. Very tight. Thanks again for the help.

 

[Ax-man]

If you have to grind the shank of the tooth to get it to fit, your pockets need to replaced . the front of those pockets do get buggered up a little . A file will solve that problem for the short term, but eventually the pocket has to be replaced. Like Stumper and Dada have said the tooth should slide right in.

If you have a real stubborn tooth, remove the pocket with the tooth, put the pocket on top of a vise with the jaws open enough for the tooth to go between the jaws, then use a 3/8 th's drive extension and knock the tooth out and down through the jaws of the vise with a hammer. The 3/8th's drive extension fits right down into the slot of the pocket and butts up nice to the rear end of the tooth. Clean the pocket up good after that and file if needed.

I know 135 to 150 lbs is the right torque, but to me that is too much, or seems to be too much, a cylinder head on an engine isn't torqued that much. I use a long 3/4 in drive breaker bar with a 3/4 to 1/2 adapter for the Allen wrench and tighten as much as I can, you can feel the bolts seat in after you do it a jillion times. I carry a spare bar and teeth and a gauge with me when I do stumps in case disaster hits on the job and have change some teeth, you have to be able to get them undone out on the job, I don't use air tools just those hand tools and keep the pockets and bolts in good shape, never had a big problem having teeth come out if a tooth does come out the pockets are in need of replacing or the wheel is gouged. I have never measured the torque I am probaly close but this has always worked for me.

Another thing that might work is those pockets can be reversed, I don't do it but they are made to be reversed.

Good luck

Larry

 

[copper86]

Thanks ax, I definately need new pockets then because the new teeth went in very hard,all f them. Iwill look into it. Any suggestons on where to pick them up. I know my dealer carries them but anywhere on the net cheaper? Again thanks guy's for al the help. Don't know unless you ask questions and always great advise here. Mike

 

[Ax-man]

Border City Tool and Mfg. is where I get my teeth, pockets and bolts I don'tknow if they have a website, they are located in Warren Michigan the number is 586- 758 - 5574. There are others suppliers out there, just watch the trade pubs.

I was thinking of you the other night Copper. I recently updated to new to me 630B Vermeer grinder. The honey moon is over I had to change out some teeth, same problem couldn't get them out easily, darn rust in the pockets and buggered up in the front, plus the pockets were torqued down hard at the dealer with a big impact, plus they were not gauged right, no surprize really but it took me twice as long and I didn't get many teeth changed out only the real bad ones. After going through all that just to be able to do two stumps the next day, I hit some big rocks on the first stump so back to square one we go. :bang:

larry

 

[preach it]

I have a Rayco RG13 walk behind. I tighten the bolts down to 85 ftlbs and have never had a tooth come out or loosen up even after hitting rocks. I also use "wheel savers" under the tooth. They are cheap and keep the teeth from wearing on the wheel itself. At the advice of one on another thread I made a guage to set the teeth at the depth that I wanted, it makes it easily consistent. I also set the curved teeth about 1/8" lower than the straight teeth. The guage works perfect for that. I found that it made the teeth wear more evenly.