Resources on Wedging Techniques?

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cunrya

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Since joining this site the other day I have realized I know far less than I thought I did. Whoever posted the link to the OSHA site bravo, most informative saftey/cutting technique information I've ever seen. At this point I'm very interested in learning more about wedging techniques. Yes, Ive used wedges, but at this point realize I may not be doing it correctly. Anyone know of a good resource for information on this? Also I see there are many types of Wedges available, what do you use and why? Thanks in advance!
 
Read these

Both of these have lots of good info, including the use of wedges, both for felling and bucking.
 
It is best to use a plastic wedge as you don’t want the saw to accidentally contact a metal wedge.

The Stihl DVD “Chain Saw Safety, Operation & Maintenance” shows how to use wedges for felling or bucking. This is also an excellent DVD on chain sharpening, safety, felling, bucking, and maintenance (for any brand of chainsaw). Get it here…
http://www.stihlusa.com/knowhow/knowhow_lit_video.html

Also my Stihl MS 440 instruction manual covers this as I recall. Read instruction manuals here…
http://www.stihlmanuals.w1.com/stihl_ownersmanuals/ownersmanuals_listing.html

Then in addition to wedges, for felling in a particular direction, there are “Tree Jacks”. This is at the first link below. The second link shows them in use…
http://www.madsens1.com/siljacks.htm

http://www.madsens1.com/sf1.htm
 
Thanks Blowdown surely a wealth of information there, seems at first glance to be very thorough, will read through it very soon thanks. Ignorance is curable, Stupid just plain hurts! :cool:
 
Info on use of Wedges

The US Forest Service has a publication "Saws That Sing: A Guide To Using Crossuct Saws" that contains a section on wedges and their use. This publication can be downloaded. Do a google search on "Saws That Sing". The "bucking wedges" with an eye for a rope are available from Dixie Industries (www.cmindustrial.com), Grandview Aluminum (www.gapalum.com email and ask for info on their 10 wedges), and American Arborist (www.arborist.com). The rope between a pair of wedges is secured to an axe sunk on the uphill or least movable log segment. The wedges will not fall onto the saw when the log segments come free. This would seem even more imortant for chainsaws.
 
There is a major difference between east coast logging and west coast logging. East coast loggers usually use Soren Erikson's Game of Logging method of falling timber. The Game of Logging method applies math and physics to falling trees. Basically, the theory is that each size wedge provides a given amount of lift to overcome lean, whether it's side lean or back lean. If you take the course, they will provide you with a sight card that has all the lift tables, lean tables and a sight on it to measure the height of trees, because that and the diameter is the basis of all the tables. This is just a brief overview I can't remember how long all four modules are. The last module is basically planning how to fall the whole tract of land to maximize skidder reach and cutting timber at working speeds. Here is the contact info for the state of Ohio:

Ohio Forestry Association
Contact: Gina Whaley
[email protected]
[email protected]
4080 South High Street
Columbus, OH 43207
Telephone: (614) 497-9580
http://www.gameofloggingusa.com

Hope this helps you.
Onelick
 
I missed two more contacts in Ohio. Check out the website, I can't seem to cut and paste the other two contacts. (operator error, I need to RTFM.)Sorry.
 
you might be better sending gypo logger or kf tree from this board a p/m between them you have the biggest lunch box full of everything you could ever imagine on wedging,although neither own a decent wedge. :)
 
A couple thoughts on how having a few tricks in your wedging knowledge toolbox can really help.
1) Carry and occasionally use a metal wedge. It will drive and convert a lean more powerfully than any plastic wedge. You do have to have the discipline to keep your chain away from your wedge. But you absolutely should be doing that anyway.
2) Have two types of plastic wedges. Soft ones work well in cold weather. Hard ones that break easily in the cold work well on warmer days.
3) Spend a little more and get some plastic wedges that have a metal reinforcement on their butt, they'll last a fair bit longer.
4) When stacking wedges, don't put them directly on top of each other. They will drive easier and in some cases it’s the only way they'll continue to lift if you angle them about 70 degrees. When lifting like this, the decreased friction from less contact aids significantly.
5) Don't limit yourself to one technique, or deny yourself another technique. If a game of logging thing comes your way, consider it thoughtfully. But don't lock into anyone’s 'my way' when you can utilize another way advantageously.
For instance, does "the theory is that each size wedge provides a given amount of lift to overcome lean" have merit? As a basis to start from, yes. And if you don't have that tool bag of knowledge full, you can usually get by. But understand that there is more to life and that how you use that wedge, what type of wedge etc make the "given amount of lift" a substantial variable, (which is of course; physics).
On the West Coast, with larger diameter trees, the need for a cutting technique that better lends itself to wedging, use of jacks and so forth, the game of logging hasn't caught on.
Did I mention on smaller diameter trees that because of their size are difficult to wedge, using a back cut first, then securing your wedge(s), then the face cut without jeopardizing holding wood, then driving the tree over?
And another big caveat for all of this, what is the weight of the tree/snag you're dropping? No substitute for experience, eh? (I speak Canadian, eh).
 
Smoke,
I agree with having a full toolbox and picking out which ever tool fits the situation best. I just figured all the other ones were covered in the other earlier posts, so I just added another tool....
Onelick
 
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