Preston
Addicted to ArboristSite
Has anybody here reversed the wedge and plate on a splitter? I'm want to put a rack on the end of mine with a lift table for the rounds. Wondering just how much trouble it would be and if it would work as well?
Reverse the wedge
- Thread starter Preston
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farmboss45
ArboristSite Operative
What do you mean by "reverse" the wedge? Try looking through the woodsplitter pic thread in this section of the forum. There are a ton on homeade splitter pics and good ideas. I put a large table on mine and a log lift. The wedge is stationary, splits go right on the the table.
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memory
ArboristSite Guru
I think he is referring to switching witch end the wedge is on.
How is yours setup now and what do splitter do you have?
How is yours setup now and what do splitter do you have?
Fronty Owner
ArboristSite Operative
should work the same.
The only problem I see with it is this is going to put the wood sliding on the rail with every split. get a little dirt and grit on there, its going to wear.
We may be talking years and decades depending on use, but it is additional wear..
The only problem I see with it is this is going to put the wood sliding on the rail with every split. get a little dirt and grit on there, its going to wear.
We may be talking years and decades depending on use, but it is additional wear..
Preston
Addicted to ArboristSite
This is what I meant. Putting the plate on the ram end. And I have a 22T Huskee. Maybe a shelf on either side of the I beam would help. I just know I do not care for the wedge on the ram. And there is just no way I can buy another splitter.
flyboy553
Oakaholic
It is do-able, but you have to make sure the physics stay the same. Otherwise you could end up bending the ram or worse.
One poster said you would cause wear on the beam from the wood sliding. Well, when I load a round on mine, I jam it up against the wedge to hold it still, so the wood doesn't ever slide. Can't imagine why one would put it against the plate and do it that way anyway. My splitter is probably 40 yrs old and there is no visible wear on it yet. Maybe the next 40 yrs? lol
Ted
One poster said you would cause wear on the beam from the wood sliding. Well, when I load a round on mine, I jam it up against the wedge to hold it still, so the wood doesn't ever slide. Can't imagine why one would put it against the plate and do it that way anyway. My splitter is probably 40 yrs old and there is no visible wear on it yet. Maybe the next 40 yrs? lol
Ted
Preston
Addicted to ArboristSite
I just knew somebody would bring up that word physics. Now I'm really lost.:msp_ohmy:
flyboy553
Oakaholic
That's funny! What I mean is that the butt plate has to be mounted to the ram at the same height the wedge is currently mounted at. Also, you need to use the same wedge, don't go trying to put a 12 incher on there. That beam can only handle so much stress and torsion(twist), which was calculated(physics) at the factory. You put a larger wedge on there and you will change those properties(numbers). That could either twist the beam(because forces are being put on the wedge 12 inches from the beam instead of 6 inches) or it could bend the ram.
Ted
kenfain
ArboristSite Lurker
reverse wedge
The difference seems to be stationary or horizontal /vertical. I don't care for vertical splitting. But it's nice to have that option. If you change the wedge, you'll be unable to split vertical without problems. Stationary splitters seem to all have the wedge welded in place,with a pushing plate. You'd need a log lift for big stuff. If the splitter will handle logs larger than you can lift. Otherwise I can't see any other problems. Let's see what everyone else thinks.
The difference seems to be stationary or horizontal /vertical. I don't care for vertical splitting. But it's nice to have that option. If you change the wedge, you'll be unable to split vertical without problems. Stationary splitters seem to all have the wedge welded in place,with a pushing plate. You'd need a log lift for big stuff. If the splitter will handle logs larger than you can lift. Otherwise I can't see any other problems. Let's see what everyone else thinks.
Cheesecutter
Addicted to ArboristSite
I've built 3 splitters over the years as my wood length needs changed. The first one had the pusher on the cylinder end and wedge welded to the I-beam. The second one was much more heavy duty and had the wedge on the cylinder end, but the splits were always hitting my feet and shins. The third is on my skid-steer I put the pusher at the cylinder end due to personal preference. I don't see any difference in actual performance either way.
ft. churchill
Addicted to ArboristSite
I've used a several different splitters and I much prefer the ones with the ram on the cylinder shaft and the splitting wedge welded to the end of the beam. I do not care for vertical splitting either, I noodle big ones down to size first. It seems like all of the ones that I've used that have the wedge on the cylinder have a nasty trick of having the wood smack you when the split cracks open explosively. Ergonomics also seem better with the wedge on the beam.
Preston
Addicted to ArboristSite
Y'all have hit dead on. Gravity, my shins and feet. At times they really take a beatin. I have a good friend with a shop and all the equipment needed. I thing we'll have a talk. I talked to him about a lift table and the valve needed. He said he had that already. His main work is with hydraulics on bucket trucks and boring machines. But I've seen him do it all.
WidowMaker
Addicted to ArboristSite
If you use the search function with terms such as, Log splitter, log lift, 4 way wedge, and the like you will finds days worth of reading an just about every conceivalbe design you could want....
I have never operated a splitter with the push plate ram mounted, so I can't really say that I wouldn't like them. However I don't like the idea of having to chase after a chunk that needs resplit.
Our splitter has a ram mounted wedge, a hydraulic log lift and a catch table, as long as you have a helper to feed the lift you never have to leave the operator positon. With the lift and catch/work table you seldon have a split falling on your shins or toes, as far as explosive splits I I always keep one hand on the round to interecpt such surpises..ymmv
I have never operated a splitter with the push plate ram mounted, so I can't really say that I wouldn't like them. However I don't like the idea of having to chase after a chunk that needs resplit.
Our splitter has a ram mounted wedge, a hydraulic log lift and a catch table, as long as you have a helper to feed the lift you never have to leave the operator positon. With the lift and catch/work table you seldon have a split falling on your shins or toes, as far as explosive splits I I always keep one hand on the round to interecpt such surpises..ymmv
Jules083
ArboristSite Operative
If you put the wedge on the end of a beam it will be in the same spot my Supersplit's wedge is. Copy the SS production table and you'll basically have the same function as a SS, just with a hydraulic. Look at a few videos of a SS in action, that's basically what you'll be doing. I like it and feel like I don't handle the splits as much. The action of a log splitting pushes the last split off the end of the table.
motoman3b
ArboristSite Operative
My cousin has a splitter set up like the huskys I borrowed it a few times before running across the splitter I bought and rebuilt, I never liked using the thing vertical and the wedge being so short you had to make sure the log was pressed tight against the beam cause the foot plate was tiny and it would sit crooked if you didnt and just never really liked the way it worked. I know many people love those style splitters to each there own I couldnt stand it for more then a hour or so
Couldnt be happier with my current splitter the wedge on the end of beam works so much better for all the reasons others have already mentioned, with that said If it was me I would make the wedge taller 8-12" and reinforce your beam accordingly you will be happy you did!
Also I'd consider picking up a truck crane and use that with a winch instead of the lift table, that's how mine is set up and for one it keeps the beam side open and you wouldnt have to add a extra spool/cylinder/hoses and you can swing it 360 degrees to pick up logs all around the splitter rather then having to have the log on one side to pick up. Either way keep us updated I've seen alot of people saying they're going to do this with their splitters but not many following up with pics or posts!
Couldnt be happier with my current splitter the wedge on the end of beam works so much better for all the reasons others have already mentioned, with that said If it was me I would make the wedge taller 8-12" and reinforce your beam accordingly you will be happy you did!
Also I'd consider picking up a truck crane and use that with a winch instead of the lift table, that's how mine is set up and for one it keeps the beam side open and you wouldnt have to add a extra spool/cylinder/hoses and you can swing it 360 degrees to pick up logs all around the splitter rather then having to have the log on one side to pick up. Either way keep us updated I've seen alot of people saying they're going to do this with their splitters but not many following up with pics or posts!
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woodguy105
ArboristSite Guru
If you want to set up a table that will allow splits to be pushed away from the splitter you must have the push plate on the ram/wedge on the beam.
I dont know what others are talking about...RE: chasing splits that are too big and need to be resplit.
I assume if you dont have a mounted catch table everyone sets up a deck on either side of the wedge so big splits dont roll away or fall, they just lay flat and at beam height for easy access( I use big rounds flat side up). Am I missing something???
You'll love being able to use a 4 way wedge when you change your set up.
I dont know what others are talking about...RE: chasing splits that are too big and need to be resplit.
I assume if you dont have a mounted catch table everyone sets up a deck on either side of the wedge so big splits dont roll away or fall, they just lay flat and at beam height for easy access( I use big rounds flat side up). Am I missing something???
You'll love being able to use a 4 way wedge when you change your set up.
I think before you go to all that trouble you should build yourself some side tables as the splitter is now. I would make one stick out about a foot with a curl up of some sort on the opposite side of you, then on your side build one similar but only about 6" or so. You will be surprised at how much better the experience will be. I too was a non believer of the vertical mode but recently I bought a used Huskee 22 ton, now having never used a splitter of this configuration I was quite impressed. The first thing I did to it was make the larger table, the unsplit piece could sit there while I tossed the smaller piece on my side, man what a difference.! The vertical proved to be quite handy also as some of the wood I get is up to 3 feet in diameter. I scrounge butt ends at a log yard so I can't be fussy, They were too big for me to pick up so vertical it was. I have since sold that splitter and am in the process of building a mean machine so mine will be the opposite, pusher on ram, wedge on beam, log lift and outfeed tables.
At least if you do the tables and you decide you don't like it, you will want them if you swap the splitter around anyway to help hold the pieces. I made mine removable like two little trailer receivers.
good luck!
At least if you do the tables and you decide you don't like it, you will want them if you swap the splitter around anyway to help hold the pieces. I made mine removable like two little trailer receivers.
good luck!
Preston
Addicted to ArboristSite
Dave, I just may go that direction. Sounds like a lot less trouble and just simplistic enough for me to handle.
Bushmans
Smoke Dragon Herder
A lot of times what I do with the little Speeco 22 ton I use is to put a wheel barrow on the opposit side with a small piece of plywood sitting on it.
Makes a perfect table and if you leave a slight gap in between the plywood and the beam it is a great place to throw all the bark and tidbits that normally have to be raked up.
I am used to wedge on ram but would like the convience of being able to push a round through with the next round. I hate splitting vert. I'd rather noodle!
Makes a perfect table and if you leave a slight gap in between the plywood and the beam it is a great place to throw all the bark and tidbits that normally have to be raked up.
I am used to wedge on ram but would like the convience of being able to push a round through with the next round. I hate splitting vert. I'd rather noodle!
kenfain
ArboristSite Lurker
wedge reversal
I've used both types of splitters. I'm not clear on exactly what the problem is that you're trying to correct. They both have pros and cons. In my experience none of the cons would be a deal breaker. My priorities would include things like a large added work table. Working height is a must, but your husky being a modern machine it's probly tall enough. Back in the day, they had a tendency to be much lower to the ground. Yep, A real back breaker. You'd like to think it'd be easier to lift those rounds only a little bit. Work closer to the ground. You'd be wrong there. I would suggest you just add a couple foot of work table. Not neccesarily on both sides. But generous on the opposite side, moderate on the opperator's side. Leave the wedge as is. Why reinvent the wheel. I have a 37 ton from northern, and my favorite feature is the automatic idle control. I tell everyone, it would be simple to fit to an existing splitter. Check it out whichever way you go. Saves gas and hearing. Would be easy to make your own. Back to your splitter, wouldn't a stationary wedge just push everything past the work area, out on the ground? Be okay if you split small stuff only.
I've used both types of splitters. I'm not clear on exactly what the problem is that you're trying to correct. They both have pros and cons. In my experience none of the cons would be a deal breaker. My priorities would include things like a large added work table. Working height is a must, but your husky being a modern machine it's probly tall enough. Back in the day, they had a tendency to be much lower to the ground. Yep, A real back breaker. You'd like to think it'd be easier to lift those rounds only a little bit. Work closer to the ground. You'd be wrong there. I would suggest you just add a couple foot of work table. Not neccesarily on both sides. But generous on the opposite side, moderate on the opperator's side. Leave the wedge as is. Why reinvent the wheel. I have a 37 ton from northern, and my favorite feature is the automatic idle control. I tell everyone, it would be simple to fit to an existing splitter. Check it out whichever way you go. Saves gas and hearing. Would be easy to make your own. Back to your splitter, wouldn't a stationary wedge just push everything past the work area, out on the ground? Be okay if you split small stuff only.
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