Rigging knots

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I believe thirty six years pre-dates captive eye biners.:cheers:

Yes, it does make a difference that you use captive eye biners but a scaffold hitch would still be better to use than a bowline. An anchor hitch wouldn't fit in the eye of the biner well nor in the eye of a snap.

then there was somthing else a steel hook with a captive eye.
 
Discussions like this on AS got me to move on from my bowline on the biner for life support.
Despite that I was taught to do this, the discussions on AS were measured and factual and I tried using the fisherman's instead...I liked it, got good at tying it and will not go back to a bowline on the biner.

SO this discussion on rigging knots that has managed to remain calm and adult has given me some hmmm moments and some different things to try on my next rigging job.

Thanks for keeping it sensible guys:cheers:
 
Discussions like this on AS got me to move on from my bowline on the biner for life support.
Despite that I was taught to do this, the discussions on AS were measured and factual and I tried using the fisherman's instead...I liked it, got good at tying it and will not go back to a bowline on the biner.

SO this discussion on rigging knots that has managed to remain calm and adult has given me some hmmm moments and some different things to try on my next rigging job.

Thanks for keeping it sensible guys:cheers:

Yes Bermie, I guess we do sound like a bunch of turkeys crowing in the locker room at times. I know I have been guilty of sounding like I am talking to my guys on the job site at times. Easy to forget that we have those of the more delicate (and more sensible) gender around here. I'll try to keep that more in mind. ;)
 
Wow, this went to #69!. All is good, Just having that half-hitch (marl) on there makes them all good, or just throw another half-hitch (marl) on there and get it done.
Jeff :)

I was shooting for 68 and I'll owe you one.... Doh! There I go again! :greenchainsaw:
 
Thanks to all I got the rest of the tree down today and I belove I was using a clove hitch to a running bowline about a foot higher. My buddy said it wouldent work but we didn't have one problem. Then again I didn't relize how much a 460 kicks ur but when I was cutting chucks of the stalk. But the 60' tree is sitting down on the ground. But once again thank you to everyone. But then again I would like to keep learning from you guys so please keep the great info comming.
 
The only problem was when I was cutting a branch it pulled the chain out of the bar and didn't seem to ride right. Then when I topped the tree it when the top fell it took my saw with it now part if the chain does not fit right. If I pull the chain off the bar it will not set back in without wiggling back in. And when I move the chain it does the same on the top but the other have of the chain fits fine on the whole bar
 
There are too many sources on the bowline on a biner topic to list. A quick search should render lots of results. Treeco is correct, any attachment knot used for life support needs to cinch up tight on the biner or snap. I use the scaffold knot as well.

PDQDL,

I found my TCC. It says quote:

"Unless the hitch is proceeded by a half hitch this knot is not recommended for tying off limbs for lowering because of it's potential to 'roll out'. Even still, the clove hitch and running bowline perform this latter function better".

I also found this quote worthwhile and thought it would be educational for this thread:

"It is recommended that at least five tucks or turns be made around the standing part for this hitch to function properly".
...

Good! I'm glad you found your reference. I recall reading the five tucks, but I have apparently missed the other comments. Thanks for nailing me with that one.

Well...All I can say is that the TCC is a good book, but it certainly isn't the final word. The author clearly is not fond of the timber hitch. Myself, I don't think I have ever used five tucks, and I have never had a timber hitch pull out.

I suspect that the author is one of those experienced climbers who never learned to use this knot. As I have already pointed out, it is rather sensitive to being tied and set correctly. Done wrong, and it will pull out in a heartbeat. For an inexperienced climber, I would strongly recommend learning the running bowline as a primary knot, then learning to use other methods for improved convenience and safety.

I don't like the timber hitch best because it is more reliable, I am fond of it because it cannot be made hard to untie, and it is faster for my groundies to untie. So far, nearly all of the tree climbers that I have trained over the past 25 years have graduated to preferring the timber hitch for rigging, after I almost choked them by the neck making them learn how to use it. As we can see from almost every thread hear at AS, many tree workers are not terribly inclined to changing their methods or learning new ways.

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I still wish to take exception to the "roll out" comment. I think that the phrase is misleading. A clove hitch will literally roll out, if attached to a post that is not anchored, much like a log that is dropping. If the log, branch, or post is firmly anchored, the clove hitch holds pretty darned well. A slick surface is much more likely to have this problem than a rough textured log.

The timber hitch literally cannot "roll" out, since the tail turns back on itself. Of course, that tail can be pulled out, but that would be a knot "failure to hold", not "rolling out". This same logic applies to bowline, taut line hitch, or any other knot that is accused of being prone to failure. They are pulling out under load, not unwinding from their attachment point.

I know. It's all just semantics.
 
Sounds like you pinched your bar Charsha...either that or you've put a kink in the chain from when it came off or when the saw got pulled with the top.

When you got the saw pulled out of your hands, had you made a snap cut (two parallel overlapping cuts) or a wedge and a back cut?
Sequencing the cuts properly when there is a lot of weight that will go on its own is key to not having this happen.
 

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