Rim or Spur??

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Rim because you can replace, or swap out with a different one utilizing the same clutch bell. Cheaper to replace too.
 
Taste great

Though the name "spur" is old school

I dunno nor do I care what the new "correct" name for a spur sprocket is

I am gonna do a spoof thread about renaming chainsaw parts soon......looks like fun
 
Ummm the rim sprockets are not gauge specific.....just to let you know
one pitch fits all guages

Pitch is the drive tooth spacing
gauge is the thickness of the drive teeth and is matched to the bar
 
Okay, what parts would be needed to change my 026 from rim to spur? Maybe it is spur already, I don't know. Everything is original stock except muffler mod. 74, .325 and fitted with an 18"bar. Thank you.

I guess the only important thing is the .325?
 
Last edited:
The "rim" system is better as it floats back and forth with the chain movement. The "spocket" which has spurs or teeth (private joke between me and Pest :laugh: ) will wear and lock the chain into the groves causing faster wear. And yes, the rim is cheap in comparsion to an entire drum/sprocket (teeth or spurs)..

The 026 is standard with a rim drive. if the thingy the chain goes on is round with slots and attaches to the drum on splines, it's a rim. If it has individual triangular teeth and is part of the drum, it's a sprocket drive.
 
Thankd Lakeside,

Is it okay to keep using an old chain on a new rim? Or does the old chain need dressed up a little? I still have the original rim on my saw and it has cut a lot of wood. It does not seem to be slipping so I have not been concerned until today.
 
Old chain on new rim is fine. If the grooves on the rim are more than 0.5mm... toss it. The rim won't "slip" until it falls in half.. but if badly worn will cause your chain links to wear faster.
 
Back
Top