Rookie needs help cs590

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
here is carb adjustment data and service data. echo has not release a service manual for the 590 and 600 yet
 

Attachments

  • CS590 walbro carb adjustment.pdf
    228.5 KB · Views: 16
  • cs590 600 service data series 12 13 14 15.pdf
    527.3 KB · Views: 15
have you tried to turn the idle way in till the chain spins then back it slowly out....?
 
once you get the to idle you can adjust the others....if your pig rich on the low it will throw it out of wack also.... for future reference when i remove my limiters i walk my screws in count the turns then back the same amount... give me a starting point... out trim the tabs put them back on... this is before i even touch the muffler...pardon me for saying but you should learn your carb tune skills way before you muffler mod any saw...just my opinion.... that being said it is what is dont freak out take your time and figure it out....
 
Yes I would turn the idle to chain moveing if I could get it to idle!!!that's my problem can't get to idle!!!and the mm was on the saw already wasn't me but it's a good reason to take in some knowlage o n carb tuneing!!im no expert on saws but I'm not totally ignorant!!
 
Need to check

Fuel line

Fuel filter

Carb and gaskets etc. I would put a carb kit in while I was checking carb unless it’s a new kit

Also need to make sure you nozzle check valve is sealing I have had them leak and the saw would not idle

Then I would do a pressure and vac test the carb and the saw
 
Setting the "L" speed screw isn't at all difficult, but it may take a few attempts if you don't have a reference point because if more than about 1/2 turn rich or lean the engine will usually not stay running.

Once you get it to stay running at a low idle speed turn the "L" screw in or CW until it reaches the highest/smoothest rpms, then a little further till it starts to slow down/stall. Go out or CCW until you once again reach the highest smoothest idle speed, then slightly more until the engine slows ever so slightly. This is usually about the best place to end up at producing less tendency to hesitate with quick hits of the throttle, etc.

IF you are not able to get a stable idle no matter where you set the "L" speed screw, then for sure you will need to investigate and make repairs accordingly. When I run into this here in the shop we install a new fuel line, filter, and carb kit as mentioned above. Once in a while you will run into a carb that is defective and will not work not matter how many times you rebuild it, but that is not all that common. In most cases a good cleaning and carb kit with correct settings will take care of that deal Don't forget about the intake gaskets/boots and we always inspect and replace them if/as needed while the saw is here for repairs.

If that doesn't get it, it's probably got an air leak someplace else. Of course I ALWAYS do a compression test for very poor running/hard starting saws before throwing money at them, and may remove the muffler for a P/C inspection as well.

The "H" speed screw may require a little more effort than the "L" speed screw. I always go well out with those so the saw is noticeably rich, 4 stroking heavily and down on power in the cut. Start turning the "H" speed screw in a little at a time, making a cut with each new adjustment. Remove the load during the cut and the engine should instantly "four stroke" just a tad. Continue doing this until you find best power but it still misses just a tad removing the load. This setting will be ever more difficult to find as many modern saws will have rev-limiting coils in them which mimic a good carb setting. So best to er just a tad rich on the "H" speed screw but still making best power in the cut. It will take a little effort to find the "sweet spot" for the "H" speed screw, and you may have to make very minor adjustments to it for different weather, especially in the hot/humid summer months compared to the clean/cool dense air we often see in the Winter.........Cliff
 
Also need to make adjustment with the saw warm saw that been running for 3 min cycling throttle trigger. Don’t Adjust a cold saw adjustment will never be right
 
Setting the "L" speed screw isn't at all difficult, but it may take a few attempts if you don't have a reference point because if more than about 1/2 turn rich or lean the engine will usually not stay running.

Once you get it to stay running at a low idle speed turn the "L" screw in or CW until it reaches the highest/smoothest rpms, then a little further till it starts to slow down/stall. Go out or CCW until you once again reach the highest smoothest idle speed, then slightly more until the engine slows ever so slightly. This is usually about the best place to end up at producing less tendency to hesitate with quick hits of the throttle, etc.

IF you are not able to get a stable idle no matter where you set the "L" speed screw, then for sure you will need to investigate and make repairs accordingly. When I run into this here in the shop we install a new fuel line, filter, and carb kit as mentioned above. Once in a while you will run into a carb that is defective and will not work not matter how many times you rebuild it, but that is not all that common. In most cases a good cleaning and carb kit with correct settings will take care of that deal Don't forget about the intake gaskets/boots and we always inspect and replace them if/as needed while the saw is here for repairs.




If that doesn't get it, it's probably got an air leak someplace else. Of course I ALWAYS do a compression test for very poor running/hard starting saws before throwing money at them, and may remove the muffler for a P/C inspection as well.

The "H" speed screw may require a little more effort than the "L" speed screw. I always go well out with those so the saw is noticeably rich, 4 stroking heavily and down on power in the cut. Start turning the "H" speed screw in a little at a time, making a cut with each new adjustment. Remove the load during the cut and the engine should instantly "four stroke" just a tad. Continue doing this until you find best power but it still misses just a tad removing the load. This setting will be ever more difficult to find as many modern saws will have rev-limiting coils in them which mimic a good carb setting. So best to er just a tad rich on the "H" speed screw but still making best power in the cut. It will take a little effort to find the "sweet spot" for the "H" speed screw, and you may have to make very minor adjustments to it for different weather, especially in the hot/humid summer months compared to the clean/cool dense air we often see in the Winter.........Cliff


perfect advice
 
Thanks guys for the awesome advice,I tried all of the above with exception of the compression test, vacuum test, fuel lines.im getting a rebuild kit for it and try that and check the fuel lines.let you guys know when I get it rebuilt trying to find the kit for it now .hda 268 walbro
 
Thanks guys for the awesome advice,I tried all of the above with exception of the compression test, vacuum test, fuel lines.im getting a rebuild kit for it and try that and check the fuel lines.let you guys know when I get it rebuilt trying to find the kit for it now .hda 268 walbro
K20-HDA. if you cant find it local give me a call
 
How do i go about getting that carb kit from you!



HDA-268 isnt listed in my IPL's but a 234 carb takes the same kit so you can go here if you want quick and easy ordering and just wanna do it online...https://www.performanceoutdoorequip...-234-1_PARTS_LIST/15HDAHDA2341/15HDAHDA2341~1

or

PM me and I can invoice you on paypal

or

call me 740-492-4002(if it goes to time warner voice mail just call later, I am on the phone and the voice mail isnt set up) and we can do it over the phone with CC.

paypal and phone method will save you $3 on the shipping but are also the most time consuming methods
 
Back
Top