Rookie question

[jpdocdave]

So I've been running saws for a while now, but now I've realized I want to learn more proper and safer techniques, and skills.

I've done a lot of reading and watching instructional videos. I'm not up on all the terminology, so please dumb it down for me. And sorry if this is an already covered topic, or really stupid question, but I could'nt find much info on this:

I am looking for info on falling a tree that is wider than the chainsaw bar, or is that just absolutely unaccpetable? Every instructional video I see is cutting a tree smaller than the saw, there's gotta be instances where people have to cut something larger than the saw. Or is it just not allowed?

Thanks for the help.

 

[atvguns]

So I've been running saws for a while now, but now I've realized I want to learn more proper and safer techniques, and skills.

I've done a lot of reading and watching instructional videos. I'm not up on all the terminology, so please dumb it down for me. And sorry if this is an already covered topic, or really stupid question, but I could'nt find much info on this:

I am looking for info on falling a tree that is wider than the chainsaw bar, or is that just absolutely unaccpetable? Every instructional video I see is cutting a tree smaller than the saw, there's gotta be instances where people have to cut something larger than the saw. Or is it just not allowed?

Thanks for the help.

Well it can be done but I am not the one to teach you how maybe somonelse will chime in

 

[rb142]

Absolutely you can fall trees wider than the bar. Lots of people do it every day.

For starters, check out these books: "Professional Timber Falling" by Douglas Dent, and "To Fell a Tree" by Jeff Jepson.

The really short version is that you [obviously] need to work your way around the tree, cutting in from multiple directions. The specifics of how to do this safely and efficiently depend on a lot of factors. I won't try to reproduce them here.

Spend some time searching and reading through threads in this section and in the Forrestry&Logging section. There are a lot of threads on this exact topic in the F&L section with extensive description and diagrams showing cutting techniques.

 

[troythetreeman]

just make sure your cuts line up and be careful with your back cut, try and come through as even as possible and not leave on side a lot more meaty then the other, this can cause it to fall the wrong direction

 

[jpdocdave]

Thanks for the help and refferences. I was kinda shocked and disappointed all the instuctions I found were guys with 18" bars or so cutting down a 16" tree, or youtube videos of professionals falling a huge tree, with a bar just exactly the same length.

 

[Kottonwood]

It is definitely allowed and a pretty common practice. My biggest bar is 36" and I probably cut one tree every week or two over 50" in diameter.

Look up bore cuts. Bore cuts are an advanced cutting method and should only be done by someone with good experience and someone who is able to have absolute control of the saw. It is best to learn these things hands on with someone who knows what they are doing, instead of learning online. It is very easy to cut out to much holding wood or experience kickback if you don't know what you are doing.

If you look through the videos on here there are a bunch of people cutting trees bigger than the bar, though they are not labeled that way.

As always with felling and especially when cutting a tree larger than your bar you need to have a safe place to go and a clear path to get there, you need to watch the top of the tree and be ready to move once it starts to go. You need to be able to judge the lean of the tree and cut accordingly. If you can't already do that every time you have no business trying more advanced cuts.

 

[defensiblespace]

its all about the hinge

I don't care what size bar you are using in relation to the tree. Making proper cut dimensions is everything. The face cut should go 1/3 of the way into the tree. The back cut should be parallel with the face cut and you should leave a hinge that is about 10% of the diameter of the tree. By no means should you ever cut all the way through your hinge or you lose all control of the fall.

 

[jpdocdave]

I appreciate the help, tons of wisdom here. I'm going to pick up the recommended reading materials also.

 

[troythetreeman]

I don't care what size bar you are using in relation to the tree. Making proper cut dimensions is everything. The face cut should go 1/3 of the way into the tree. The back cut should be parallel with the face cut and you should leave a hinge that is about 10% of the diameter of the tree. By no means should you ever cut all the way through your hinge or you lose all control of the fall.

i agree with most of that
there are times the depth of the notch is essentially moot
there are other times deeper is better, a deeper notch changes your center of gravity, you dont have as much room for error tho with a deeper notch
i also like my back cut slightly elevated from the face cut in your standard notch
when felling trees with rot/hollow or stress cracks you want you hinge on the area of the best wood possible, this has nothing to do with depth

 

[defensiblespace]

i agree with most of that
there are times the depth of the notch is essentially moot
there are other times deeper is better, a deeper notch changes your center of gravity, you dont have as much room for error tho with a deeper notch
i also like my back cut slightly elevated from the face cut in your standard notch
when felling trees with rot/hollow or stress cracks you want you hinge on the area of the best wood possible, this has nothing to do with depth

I agree. There are exceptions to every rule. You can really tell the good fellers from the bad ones by the stumps they leave behind. I still can't stress enough though how important a proper hinge is. Learn how to use the sights on your saw to line up your hinge and you'll be able to drop a tree in the exact location you want it. Just don't ever cut through your hinge under any circumstances on a conventional cut.

 

[randyg]

Use those sights

I agree. There are exceptions to every rule. You can really tell the good fellers from the bad ones by the stumps they leave behind. I still can't stress enough though how important a proper hinge is. Learn how to use the sights on your saw to line up your hinge and you'll be able to drop a tree in the exact location you want it. Just don't ever cut through your hinge under any circumstances on a conventional cut.

Use the sights to line up the face cut (notch) for sure, but don't neglect the sights in making the back cut as well, to keep the hinge thickness uniform. When dealing with a bit of side-lean and purposely wanting the hinge thicker on the up-hill (tension) side, I will sight on one object for the face cut but choose another for the back cut. Clear as mud?

 

[jpdocdave]

Thanks again for the comments. I just looked through all the F&L pages, I only came across one thread helpful, if anyone knows of any off hand, post a link, that'd be great.

Thanks.