safe to fell near house?

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Not to hijack the original thread (would be happy to start an new thread), but could someone explain the best method to cut the tree in the video above by derwoodi - the one where the tree 'barber chairs'. Would you notch the face and then plunge cut the leaning tree right near where you want the hinge to be - then work the cut towards the back of the tree?

Thank you.

Do a search on back cut release, Bore cut or barba chair theres a fair bit of chat n thought about it on AS
Recognising the trees potential is the real trick.
 
Not to hijack the original thread (would be happy to start an new thread), but could someone explain the best method to cut the tree in the video above by derwoodi - the one where the tree 'barber chairs'. Would you notch the face and then plunge cut the leaning tree right near where you want the hinge to be - then work the cut towards the back of the tree?

I would notch the face, plunge cut leaving a couple inches of strap wood, cut all the way from there to where you want the hinge to start. Finally cut the strap. In other words do a normal back cut skipping the first several inches of wood.

Bore Cut Demonstration and Practice Post - YouTube
 
thanks for all the tips on things that could go wrong. I am going to buy at least one more good bull rope (not 3 just joking there) and it won't be one time use. I try to use one on every fell even if it's not near the house just to prevent bad fall if hinge breaks. I don't need a vehicle as I have an ample supply of large trees in almost any directions to anchor the rope puller/guyline. I also have 2 plastic wedges. I am pretty good at hinges lately on trees this size, even side leaners, and these honestly don't make me that nervous as far as my skill level. It's just that I also haven't had something unforseen happen either. I will prob end up getting some help putting them on the ground when the time comes. I have had one offer already from this post and I could use it as an opportunity to assist a pro, ask questions, and learn something.

edit: and wow that barber chair looked pretty scary. I wouldn't even try to put tension like that on BEFORE the back cut. I would think face cut, back cut with some wedges to hold it, THEN start cranking rope puller while have a separate anchorline to oppose the natural lean.

edit 2: wow the redneck one was pretty funny too, were they using floss as a bull rope? I have heard of the bore cut method as well, is there a benefit over just using the wedges to hold a backleaner? From what I understand, the bore cut is mostly for heavy front leaners. Haven't really had a need for either yet.
 
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I smell a skunk. You didn't mention the saw you using when you broke a 1/2" dacron/ polyester rope that you placed, with your proficient skills of using a throw ball, at a height of over 45 feet, while snapping the hinge on a 16dbh maple that stood 70 feet tall. But if you would have mentioned the saw you were using, I bet it would have been a stihl.

No offence to stihl owners.
 
sry my run on sentence may have been confusing/poorly written. The rope DID NOT break. I was just saying that if all my safety measures and hinge broke, I was practicing on a tree that would not damage my house anyway due to it's distance. And I can throw higher than 45 ft I'm sure, just that was where the crotch was. I have a cs400 btw. I do sort of share the standpoint that felling in most cases can be pretty simple and I am trying to take my time learning safety and certain techniques to maybe, if I feel comfortable, fell these trees next to my house.
 
I smell a skunk. You didn't mention the saw you using when you broke a 1/2" dacron/ polyester rope that you placed, with your proficient skills of using a throw ball, at a height of over 45 feet, while snapping the hinge on a 16dbh maple that stood 70 feet tall. But if you would have mentioned the saw you were using, I bet it would have been a stihl.

No offence to stihl owners.

:msp_thumbdn:
 
Of all the posts no one has mentioned the tree and previous trimming---

fische08 Thanks for the photos of the tree- If you look at the photos it is evident that this tree has been "pruned" or rather trimmed by previous owners. Each branch has been cut, and it has regrown, but they have been cut off, cleaning out the interior branches. This is called "lions tailing". Each branch has regrown with a lack of good taper- each branch is really a "water sprout" or "sucker" branch now. Where each branch was cut off- there will be decay below the point of attachment of the water sprouts.

If the tree had good vitality at the time of the initial cutting, it probably healed and regrew in 3 or 4 years- More than likely there is decay in the upper crown. It is possible that the decay has invaded the trunk on this tree-- I would suggest using a long drill bit say an 18" X 11/64 ths inch wood bit- to drill into the trunk- observe the wood chips as they come out and feel resistance it should be rather tight drilling in at a very slow speed- if the chips are extracted and they are off color you will have a good indication of decay present in the trunk. If the tree is hollow at the base or if it is decayed-

DON'T ATTEMPT REMOVAL YOURSELF!

In your area of the country you should be able to find a qualified professional with insurance to take this tree down safely for around $300- it could be less or it could be a bit more- but you are keeping all of the wood, and you can live with a stump so don't worry about stump grinding/removal.

If you were to cut this tree down yourself though it would be a great confidence builder (if you didn't smash your home and kill your wife) it could be argued that you took an unnecessary risk. If you slip with the chainsaw and gave your self the average chainsaw cut ( it would take 110 stitches to bind you up and cost in the neighborhood of $15,000 of emergency care, not including time off from work and possible further complications).

As a seasoned professional I would strongly advise against you removing this tree in any fashion yourself. However, if you are reluctant at hiring a professional to do the dangerous work, then I suggest you go all out and buy yourself some books, learn to climb, rig and remove the tree on your own. Buy a good quality climbing harness, all the safety gear, and invest in this as a professional. Get professional quality gear- you should so your not cutting corners. Get some good climbing spikes and also learn to climb without them- you may want to trim some branches without exposing your trees to invasion by insects and disease.

Learn to climb, and remember "when in doubt- Rope it out", if you think it could strike the house or wires put a rope on it and rig it out right. By the way, you will need some good "groundies" as well- these are grounds persons to man the ropes, use chainsaws and clean up under you to keep you safe. Don't become overly confident in that rope puller either- it isn't designed to be indestructible- I have seen them break- under tensions they should have withstood.

A bit scattered in thought process- but hopefully clear in intention- HIRE A PROFESSIONAL DON'T MAKE A POOR CHOICE!


Be careful, this is dangerous work- :chainsawguy:
 
So...Justme23005 and I had quite a day on Sunday. Here is a pic to sum it up. View attachment 222606
This is taken from the wood pile area in the background of the "tree1" picture on the first page of this thread. As you can see, Tree 1 came down 1st as it's on the bottom of the pile in the back. Then to right you can see the stump of a bifurcated tree that we took down individually. Lastly, on the ground in front of me is Tree3, which was leaning over our bedroom, which justme23005 aimed very well onto the tree pile. All in all, I am glad to have had a pro there to do it right, and more glad that he let me help. Thanks again justme23005!
 
heres a good one too, took this when I was standing on tree1 looking at the massive pile. Here you can kinda see the 4th tree we took down, a 24" shaggy looking Beech tree(come in from left) which was leaning towards my garage. That one was the bonus of the day. Sadly tree 2 in the front of the house didn't have room to come down with a clean fell.
View attachment 222608
 
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So...Justme23005 and I had quite a day on Sunday. Here is a pic to sum it up. View attachment 222606
This is taken from the wood pile area in the background of the "tree1" picture on the first page of this thread. As you can see, Tree 1 came down 1st as it's on the bottom of the pile in the back. Then to right you can see the stump of a bifurcated tree that we took down individually. Lastly, on the ground in front of me is Tree3, which was leaning over our bedroom, which justme23005 aimed very well onto the tree pile. All in all, I am glad to have had a pro there to do it right, and more glad that he let me help. Thanks again justme23005!

I think things went pretty smooth.. I just wish we had a few more hours of daylight, so we could have gotten some of the trees cut up. Just let me know when you want the tree in the front of the house down, & we'll do it. :chainsaw:
 
believe you me, after you were telling me how bad that maple was going to get in the near future, It's only a matter of time before your phone starts ringing again :laugh:. No worries about the cleanup though, I should due the grunt work anyway. I got a head start on that beach tree after I got my cs-400 back from it's 10hour tuneup, it was throwing shavings >6 ft behind me when I was bucking the trunk. It's crazy how much the carb settings need to be changed after they tuned them on day 1. After a little while I may try the muff mod but she already cuts pretty well even with the 18" bar, as long as I don't put lotsa pressure on it the rpm's will stay right up there even with 18" buried:blob2:. Thanks again justme23005!

edit: BTW cVictoria, that was the reason I wanted to take these trees out too, you can see how close they were to my house, and we got hit with a hurricane and devastating snow storm last year. I thanked my lucky stars they held through that :eek:
 
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I was gong to throw my 2 cents in, but see that you made the best choice! I am sure that you now understand why we are concerned, when peeps wanna tackle something like that. Most of the time it ends badly, a lot of times it results in death. We are constantly barraged with injury and accident reports, they always include the "others" (non pro) in the mix. Some real tragedy's out there, all of them where preventable. Some of them are very simple jobs, but when done incorrectly, they can be fatal. Last year, a guy tried taking a small branch off his tree, hit his ladder on the way down, knocked him off and impaled him when he landed. He died at the scene. If he had spent a couple hundred for a Arborist to run by and take care of it, he would still be alive. It would have taking me longer to set up the truck than it would have taking to remove the branch and I don't know it I would have even fired my chipper. He left 3-4 kids, a wife and a very successful restaurant.
 
DON'T ATTEMPT REMOVAL YOURSELF!



If you were to cut this tree down yourself though it would be a great confidence builder (if you didn't smash your home and kill your wife) it could be argued that you took an unnecessary risk. If you slip with the chainsaw and gave your self the average chainsaw cut ( it would take 110 stitches to bind you up and cost in the neighborhood of $15,000 of emergency care, not including time off from work and possible further complications

A bit scattered in thought process- but hopefully clear in intention- HIRE A PROFESSIONAL DON'T MAKE A POOR CHOICE!


Be careful, this is dangerous work- :chainsawguy:

Glad you weren't scared off.:laugh:
 

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