Safety Chain

[kelvinf]

Hello again guys.

My ms270 came with the green label anti-kickback chain. I was wondering if the yellow label chain would have better performance. Could any of you tell me the difference? Thanks

 

[Butch(OH)]

My experience with safety chain vs pro chain is that in smaller work like limbs etc up a given size that it matters little assuming both have the same cutter style. There is a difference in speed once you get into larger work, the bigger the work the more difference in speed. As for the exact times or diameters involved I cant say as I have never tried to factual science out of saw'en. Guessing the "line" is about 6-8"?? I just bought a new Shindy 446S that came equipped with an Oregon 33 child proof chain. After a few cuts on some wet 8" pine out in the wood pile I switched it to the same 33 chain only no safety bumpers and Ill be hanged if I can tell any difference without putting a watch on it but then, as far as I am concerned if you need a watch to tell the difference,, there aint any.

 

[ScottWojo]

I notice the differance. I HATE the Saftey chain. If you have never used a saw before keep it on till you feel like the saw is part of you. Then switch to a pro full chisel chain. You will notice the differance as well. I have several small saws, 026, 036, 028, 018 etc...they all have the non saftey chains.

 

[Lakeside53]

If you have the "green" RSC3, it cuts very well.... not a huge difference unless you're boring from "yellow" RSC.

 

[SawTroll]

..... I HATE the Saftey chain. ......

Trouble is, it looks like everyone has their of wiew on what chain models are "safety chain" - actually most chain out there have some sort of kick-back reducing design feature.

Here is a slightly revised version of my post #2000 at AS;

Reduced kick-back chain is a more proper term than "safety chain", as no saw chain is really safe.

Just remember that the are some principally different types of such chain out there:

1) The chain with tripple-hump, or just one large one, on the tie straps between cutters. These are the ones that really suck, slowing down cutting in general, and making bore cutting next to impossible.
Stihl RM2, PM1 and Oregon SL, VG belongs to this category.

2) Chain with a small ramp on the driver, directly in front of a narrow (not "bullet-shaped" like on Stihl RS/RSC and Oregon LG) raker.
The combined size of the raker and ramp is not much larger than the raker alone on the RS/LG, and I think you would be hard pressed to notice any slower cutting - maybe there will be a small difference in very long cuts.
Some even say that these chain perform better than LG/RS for bore cutting.
Oregon LP/DP/BP/VP (++) belongs to this category.

Carton/Woodsmanpro also have variants of both types, but I suspect that the ramp on their "category 2" chain may be a bit larger than on the Oregon variants.

3) The somewhat bullet shaped and wide rakers on chain like Stihl RS/RSC/RM/RMC and Oregon LG etc were also originally conceived as a kick-back reducing feature - at least according to Oregon.

4) Stihl RSC3 and PMC3 looks like they belongs to category 2), but on closer inspection they sort of are a bastard, as they combine the rakers of category 3) with the ramps of category 2).

Anyway, they should be much better than the category 1) chains, that they replace....

...but still "designed for lawyers and not sawyers".....lol

5) In addition we have oddballs like the Oregon Vanguard (V), and I am sure there are more out there.

6) The most kick-back aggressive chain are those with only a narrow raker, and no bumpers or ramps, like Stihl RSK.