same sprocket 16" bar to 12"? speed=power?

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cbr929rr

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I have a 33cc homelite ranger piece of s***, but I can't by a new saw right now. I clear trails for atv riding mostly 4" and under wood. I know most people will say use a hand saw, it will be better than that homelite. But if I replace the 16" bar with a 12" bar will it seem a little more powerful. There is no aftermarket sprockets available except stock # replacement. Will the chain be going to fast for a good cut or should I go to 14" bar? Drive links 16=56, 14=52, 12=45. I used the search button and read the same number of teeth will be in a given 6" log no matter what size bar you run.
Thanks for your help.
Ben
 
sharp chain is the key

Keep the current bar. spend some money on a bar mounted filing jig. Or a file with a plate over the top to hold the file in place. A sharp chain is all you need.. Keep it out of the dirt and you will be fine.
 
Like Eric said. Save your money and skip the new bar.

I'm guessing that you will see your biggest improvement in running better chain. The bumper-link Oregon 91VG that is probably on there currently is especially slow. A switch to Oregon 91VX or 91VS, Stihl PM, or any other reputable non-safety 3/8" low-profile chain is where you'll get your biggest performance gain.

Also, consider modifying the muffler and retuning. I think that the video speaks for itself. LOOK HERE!

EDIT: Welcome to Arboristsite, too!!
 
Here it is....modded muffler and a short bar....

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I have a Homelite 20 Powerstroke saw, probably was made during the late 90's. I think its about 33cc- I don't know if thats similar to a Ranger or not, but this saw cuts pretty good if the chain is sharp. I drilled 3 , 1/4" holes in the muffler and that helped a lot. Last week I was cutting into some 12" red Oak and it did good almost as good as my Stihl 028. A while back I cut into some 20" red Oak and it did good.

It may not do it for long- Im kind of afraid its going to lock up, but mine seems to scream pretty good with the muffler opened up.
 
How about 084 running a 21" , the 16" was just to small :) , had a 220 12" and still got a 2000 12" and a 1800 10" and a 2250 running 12".


Copyof084b.jpg
 
I like that it looks differnt ot see a large saw with a Small bar . . I thought about getting another bigsaw with a 24 inch bar anandas the Dog reduce the cutting lenthg to keep in my truck maybe a used 394or 395 maybe even even a MS 660 .
I like the photos keep em coming ! Now What the largest daimeter tree or log you have cut with a small saw like the ones mention ?

:D



How about 084 running a 21" , the 16" was just to small :) , had a 220 12" and still got a 2000 12" and a 1800 10" and a 2250 running 12".


Copyof084b.jpg
 
i sooooo want to buy a husky 3120XP and put a 10" bar on it.....................:yoyo:
 
... I'm guessing that you will see your biggest improvement in running better chain. The bumper-link Oregon 91VG that is probably on there currently is especially slow. A switch to Oregon 91VX or 91VS, Stihl PM, or any other reputable non-safety 3/8" low-profile chain is where you'll get your biggest performance gain.

Also, consider modifying the muffler and retuning. I think that the video speaks for itself. LOOK HERE!
....

Welcome to Arboristsite! :rockn:

Very good advise from CU, as allways!!!!! :rockn:

It will do nothing wrong to go with a shorter bar also - at least it will make the saw handier, in a tight place, and it may even help a bit on chain speed, bu probably hnot too much.......
No reason to dhange the sprocket, if it isn't worn out.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I will open up the muffler a little at a time but I need to find a tool to adjust the carb. I will pick up some red electrical quick connects and see if that works. I tried clear tubing last night and it was to soft. The screws are recessed down in the cast body around quarter on an inch, so needle nose and hemostats will not grab,the dremel slotting will only work if a pull them all the way out.
 

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