Saw Chain Gauge!

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bigblackdodge

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So why are there different widths of drive links? Which ones do you prefer to run? Why? Is one better than another? I ask because i have several saws that i would like to be able to swap bars, chains & rims around on. Would save a lot of money and simplify my operation.
 
So why are there different widths of drive links? Which ones do you prefer to run? Why? Is one better than another? I ask because i have several saws that i would like to be able to swap bars, chains & rims around on. Would save a lot of money and simplify my operation.

This thread should get moved to the chainsaw forum; where you will get more advice than a normal human can digest. What saws do you want to switch between? You can make your saws bar/chain universal to a certain extent, but there are exceptions for various reasons.
 
This thread should get moved to the chainsaw forum; where you will get more advice than a normal human can digest. What saws do you want to switch between? You can make your saws bar/chain universal to a certain extent, but there are exceptions for various reasons.

Thanks D&B Mack! Hopefully an Administrator will move it to the proper forum. As for the setups, I'm hoping to run the same on the 038 & MS290. And eventually add in a larger saw down the line. I like 3/8 over .325 for speed of cut and easier sharpening. Just curious as to why there's like 4 different gauge sizes on the common chains. There's not much difference in the width anyway, seems like a wasteful gimmick to me. And lots of aggravation for sure. I bought the 038 used a year ago. Had a 16" .63 bar and they were running a 3/8 .50 chain on it. Screwed the inside of the rails up so that it wants to cut to the right. Chain flops over to the side, but only to one side. I haven't personally done it yet, but I've read a ton of tales on here where folks have bought a chain &/or bar, only to realize its not the right one. Oftentimes, after they've used it. Seems to me there should be some industry standards narrowed down a bit further, unless there's a purpose to all this that I'm unaware of.
 
I think it is regional also, Around here .050 and.058 are most common, .063 is around but not as much.
 
Well the thickness of the bar groove has little if nothing to do with the cut, unless I am missing something.

You should buy an 16 18 or 20 inch bar 3/8 pitch .050 gauge and use it on the 038, then if your bar fits use it on the 290, I think it will, but don't want tell you so. Run a 16 on the 290 if your gonna have a 20 on the 38.

You will however not safe any time or make things more efficient in any way by having to swap bars on saws. Keep both saws running well and use them for there purpose. Then you just crank the saw and cut.

I think on the smaller saw your going to be running a different kind of chain anyway but probably a .050 bar. I run 3/8's 0.050 everything but small saws are lp.

Having a longer bar for the 038 if you need it and extra chains for both saws with medium sized bars all the same gauge and pitch is the best you're going to do.
 
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B Harrison. That's about the conclusion I've come to also. Thanks. Now I just need to find a good 660 to buck some of the monster oaks and hickory trees.
 
Make 'em standard

My technique is to ignore the different guages. I have a Husky 365 that's supposed to run 058 but my local Chainsaw shop is a Stihl. They sold me 063 to start with so I've kept using it. It was handy since I used 460's before that.

I'm not saying it's best practice, but it works.:msp_sad: One day I'll clean up my act.

Another way around it is to change the bar. For example you can put a .050 guage bar from a Stihl 200T on a 192. It rarely works between brands, but interbrand it sometimes does.
 
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On some chains it makes sense: 1/4 pitch carving chain is often .043 gauge, because it is small; 3/4 pitch harvester chain is .122 gauge because it is big.

Others don't make as much sense, such as why STIHL will sell .325 chain with a thicker .063 gauge and 3/8 pitch chain with .050 gauge drivers as defaults on some of their saws. If you look closely, some chains are actually made with thicker drive links that are thinned down at the tangs to fit into smaller gauge bar grooves! There is some speculation that certain manufacturers tried to have unique chain gauges to get you to buy their replacement chains. There might be some historical reason where there were many more gauges that shook out to the 3 most common (.050, .058, .063)?

Years ago, I looked into trying to standardize all of our saws to run the same chains (pitch and gauge), but the cost of replacing all of the bars and sprockets was significant, and some saws reportedly were better performance matched with different chains. It did not make sense for us to do it.

But you might move in that direction as you replace worn out bars, chains, and sprockets, if your saws are compatible with the same pitch chains, and if you can interchange bars, rims, etc. This would be especially helpful if you buy chain in bulk, or can spin down larger, damaged loops to fit smaller bars.

If you are someone who likes to go to the store and buy ready made loops off the shelf, you may find that non-standards loop combinations are harder to find. They can always be made up by a good saw shop, or ordered from a place like Bailey's, but you would need to plan ahead a bit.

Philbert
 
The real question is: What forum did this post originate on?

Well, it looks like the OP started it in the 'Homeowner Help' forum, and started a second thread with the same name in the 'Chainsaw' forum, not realizing that our beneficent and all-powerful Moderators could move it. Either way, he is 'in the groove' now . . . .

Philbert
 
The way I was told by an ancient old, now gone to is reward, Mac dealer was that you were supposed to start with a .050. As the bar wore you went to a .058 and later to an .063. I think I know exactly one guy that ever did that.

I'd stick with one gauge if you could. Whats more aggravating for me is that I no linger can use just one file. These days I have at least 3 files to cover my 4 main saws. Why one brand of .325 should take a file 1/64 smaller than another brand baffles me. What's worse is that I can't see squat anymore so I have to find my glasses to see which is which. Yeah, I tried different style handles, but that requires a memory longer than Terri Gibbs career. If I ever can do it, all my saws but my little 011 will have .050, 3/8" chisel. Then I'll only need 2 files.

Crap...I need a raker file too. Okay, 3 files!
 
I have a lot of chainsaws and they are all .050 X 3/8" except my smallest chainsaw (Stihl 025) which is .063" and .325 pitch.

Around here you cannot buy .058" and you have to get it from the Internet. In the Northeast USA I understand that .058" is most common.
 
WEST coast- .063

EAST coast- .050

So everyone else = 0.058? :(

Gauge only really matters when you start getting into long bars where a stronger chain chassis is important. 16-28" I don't think it really matters, I prefer .050 but I don't really care and it certainly doesn't factor in to any decisions regarding buying saws.
 
I have a lot of chainsaws and they are all .050 X 3/8" except my smallest chainsaw (Stihl 025) which is .063" and .325 pitch.

Around here you cannot buy .058" and you have to get it from the Internet. In the Northeast USA I understand that .058" is most common.

growing up south of wooster and holmes county .058 for huskies and Jreds and the stihl dealers sold .050. The amish husky dealer didnt carry 050 anything
 
After a lot of cutting the only chains I have ever had break through the drivelink is 3/8" .050". I've used 3/8" .063" a fair bit too and never broken one.
Wider guages can also help clearing garbage out the groove and oil delivery.
 

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