Hey Rob, if you want your chain to cut faster, the first thing you want to do is replace all those cutters that are missing in the skip chain you run, then tickle each tooth before you cut. You are cutting primarily hardwoods aren`t you? I haven`t seen any advantage to running full skip vs full comp on the 34" bar I use on the 385 when I`m making bar buried cuts. Full comp is even faster when you are cutting anything less than bar buried. Cutting more resinous softwoods, where chip clearance becomes an issue, is where skip chain works better. The File-O-Plate works very nicely for lowering the rakers properly on Carlton chain, but it is otherwise cumbersome to use. The Husky depth gauge tool will work very well for the chain you are running. Getting the depth gauges properly lowered relative to each tooth will make your chain cut faster. Practice will make you a good filer without need of any aide unless you have Parkinson`s or something that causes excessive uncontrollable movement. I like to use a saw vise or a kerf cut in a log to secure the bar tip, then I steady my left hand against the bar by placing the heel of my hand on the bar with the fingertips up against the bar while holding the tip of the file. My right hand, being my dominant hand, is free to move as it pleases so to speak, but it is actually quite well braced by the left hand. Now I just take steady, moderately light strokes with the file, keeping my left hand grounded on the bar, letting my finger tips move to allow "slack" enough to file. I generally stand on opposite sides of the saw to get both sides. Hope this helps. Russ
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