Saw starter for weak persons!

[spacemule]

Space, a chainsaw with no chainbrake isn't dangerous. Of course if you prefer chainbrakes, use them by all means. Chainbrakes jam on at inopportune moments, injuries other than cuts are far more common, people comment on things they haven't tried because they know no different

I've run older saws without them and I've run them with. I've never had one jam on unexpectedly. And yes, a chainsaw without a chain brake is more dangerous than one with. You can not say any chainsaw is not dangerous--another stupid comment. What are you going to do when you're bucking and you hit an unseen nail that jams the chain and throws the saw back at you? How exactly are you prepared for that?

Arguing that a chain brake is dangerous shows a level of stupidity I wouldn't be proud about displaying.

 

[Brushwacker]

Space, a chainsaw with no chainbrake isn't dangerous. Of course if you prefer chainbrakes, use them by all means. Chainbrakes jam on at inopportune moments, injuries other than cuts are far more common, people comment on things they haven't tried because they know no different

I have hundreds or thousands of hours on saws with and without chainbrakes so I have gave both a fair shake.
Chainsaws are much safer with chainbrakes, as a matter of fact I think they are a very nice conveniance also. Their advantage outweighs any disadvantage 100 to 1 easy in my book.

 

[Brushwacker]

It makes a lot of sense what you are saying but the point for me was that the saw did not start, or only with great difficulty, so while working with all kinds of fixups (change of coil, carb, impulse tube, piston rings, etc, etc) I had to pull this 064 with no decomp valve many times. By the time I get to pull no 20, I have to confess that the pull is getting slower:biggrinbounce2:. My 084 with a decomp valve is a piece of cake compared to the 064. I guess that I will be looking for a 066 instead.

Did you try doing anything with your choke system. Some times they do not close very well and can be improved with new parts or you can improvise to block off more air. Or you can keep a squirt bottle of fuel mix handy and pop off the air cleaner and prime it through the carb. Try not to run it dry on fuel,a little of this and that and mabe it can be not to bad of a starter.

 

[pgg]

I like the brake handle up front but get pissed off with the brake system, I'm on saws all day every day, I'm talking thick steep snag filled forests, the brakes are just a nuisance I can easily do without, also up trees pruning on 14 foot ladders, big branches above your head, once you've started the cut there ain't no going back, it's gotta go thru fast without any hesitation, brakes are bad news for jamming when you least want them to, for me they're just more hassle than they're worth, but I'll always recommend that newbies stick with them - until they gain experience..

 

[spacemule]

I like the brake handle up front but get pissed off with the brake system, I'm on saws all day every day, I'm talking thick steep snag filled forests, the brakes are just a nuisance I can easily do without, also up trees pruning on 14 foot ladders, big branches above your head, once you've started the cut there ain't no going back, it's gotta go thru fast without any hesitation, brakes are bad news for jamming when you least want them to, for me they're just more hassle than they're worth, but I'll always recommend that newbies stick with them - until they gain experience..

So, in other words, you're not careful enough to avoid setting your chain brake.

 

[cuttinscott]

Chain Brake.........

I like the brake handle up front but get pissed off with the brake system, I'm on saws all day every day, I'm talking thick steep snag filled forests, the brakes are just a nuisance I can easily do without, also up trees pruning on 14 foot ladders, big branches above your head, once you've started the cut there ain't no going back, it's gotta go thru fast without any hesitation, brakes are bad news for jamming when you least want them to, for me they're just more hassle than they're worth, but I'll always recommend that newbies stick with them - until they gain experience..

pgg, May I ask what saws you have had such brake trouble with?

Scott

 

[Al Smith]

Wow! Timing can vary as much as 5 degrees? Are those tolerances or is there some sort of adjustment?

I'm not sure but here's what I think.

Some of the Stihls had self advancing coils that worked by means of generated voltage on a trigger circuit.In other words the faster it turned the more it advanced.Although I'm not positive about it,I think that is what the deal is here,with the 5 degrees.

If all that is a fact,it could be conceivable that a coil could be reacting in full advance at cranking speed,due to a malfuncion in the internal cicuitry.I had a similar thing on a Briggs and Straton coil.

 

[Jim Mesthene]

I've used a 1975 Pioneer P40 for more than 30 years. It's always started hard when cold. When I was 25 years old I didn't mind. By the time I was 40, I used one shot of Starting Fluid in the morning and eliminated all my trouble. It's been 14 years now and I haven't ruined it yet from lack of lubrication.

31 years without a chainbrake and without injury, then I got my new Husky with a chainbrake; I love it.

 

[Lakeside53]

I'm not sure but here's what I think.

Some of the Stihls had self advancing coils that worked by means of generated voltage on a trigger circuit.In other words the faster it turned the more it advanced.Although I'm not positive about it,I think that is what the deal is here,with the 5 degrees.

If all that is a fact,it could be conceivable that a coil could be reacting in full advance at cranking speed,due to a malfuncion in the internal cicuitry.I had a similar thing on a Briggs and Straton coil.

Good idea, but probaly not on the 064... it's old technolgy with fixed timing - which is the the problem. Newer igntions have a 4 step advance and no spark until the rpm gets up to 900-950 rpm.

 

[t_andersen]

Like Romeo said, why couldn't the guy have a compression relief valve installed? Drill,tap,install. I see it done all the time on other guys saw builds without CRV installed.

I wasn't aware that a CRV could be retrofitted. I haven't found much info on retrofitting a valve here at the forum, and I would personally have thought that drilling a hole in a cylinder top not foreseen for it would be asking for trouble? Will the stresses be OK after installation of the CRV? I would hate to have the top of a cylinder blown off

Any hints from someone who has done it? Should I get a valve from a 066?

Thanks

 

[pgg]

So, in other words, you're not careful enough to avoid setting your chain brake.

Space, sorry, but you don't have a clue.

From cuttinscott: "pgg, May I ask what saws you have had such brake trouble with?" scott, chain brakes always eventually play up on saws that are used constantly, huskys and stihls, continually stripping and cleaning chain brakes is just an on-going hassle, they clog up and wear and break, I can live with a non faulty chainbrake, but they'll still come on when not needed - usually at the worst possible moment, but when they inevitably start playing up I ditch them every time.. they can come in handy when using the saw as a walking stick on hills, the locked chain prevents the bar tip sliding on the ground.. but that's it, for me they're more hassle than help, the brain washed types who are absolutely aghast to hear saws being run with no brakes, well, I'm not interested in arguing the point with them.. so best stick with your chain brakes fellas..

 

[spacemule]

Space, sorry, but you don't have a clue.

From cuttinscott: "pgg, May I ask what saws you have had such brake trouble with?" scott, chain brakes always eventually play up on saws that are used constantly, huskys and stihls, continually stripping and cleaning chain brakes is just an on-going hassle, they clog up and wear and break, I can live with a non faulty chainbrake, but they'll still come on when not needed - usually at the worst possible moment, but when they inevitably start playing up I ditch them every time.. they can come in handy when using the saw as a walking stick on hills, the locked chain prevents the bar tip sliding on the ground.. but that's it, for me they're more hassle than help, the brain washed types who are absolutely aghast to hear saws being run with no brakes, well, I'm not interested in arguing the point with them.. so best stick with your chain brakes fellas..

Then fill me in. If your chain brake is being engaged by inadvertently snagging the handle, you're not being careful enough in how you operate it. No? You brag about how careful you are, but you can't even run a saw without snagging the controls on the tree and bushes. And you're mistaken, I'm not aghast when hearing of how you operate, but I will keep this post in mind when you end up winning a Darwin award. You can't fix stupid.

 

[pgg]

"El Thicko" tell me, what the hell do you expect the chainbrake to do for you?

 

[spacemule]

Answer my question first then I might entertain yours.

 

[pgg]

For me, I'm very relaxed without a chainbrake, if they were designed better and less obtrusive, I wouldn't mind them, I've never had a chainsaw that didn't have chainbrake trouble, I certainly don't need 'textbook experts' tellin me I'm stupid because I prefer not having a brake, like BW and qtr I used non-brake saws for decades, it just not such a big deal as some of the 'textbook experts' make it out to be..