Saw Troll

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Exactly - and for felling with small saws/short bars the spikes mainly just are in the way (have done quite a bit of that, as most trees aren't so large here).

yup. This spike thing has gotten out of control...I would certainly like the small, straight spike that comes on the European Dolmar 5105 rather than the North American silly big ones on my new Dolmar. Big spikes have their place on big saws with long bars felling big trees with thick, course bark. Otherwise small spikes or no spikes is the way to go.

I thought they were called felling dogs, not bucking spikes...
 
That's interesting - Mike Acres used to be (may still be for all I know?) the NA agent (or whatever it is called) for Aspen for a long time, but that didn't produce any results that I heard of?

Btw, Husky has stopped selling Aspen here, and has introduced their own premixed alkylate fuel instead. I haven't tried that one yet.

After Husqvarna introduced the 500 series with AutoTune, Aspens 2 stroke oil, wich is rated Jaso FC, probably wasnt up to the job, keeping the main bearings and pistol rings lubricated and cooled, when the AT constantly "leans" out the air/fuel mixture, to keep the revs up.
So they have introduced "Their own" fuel with "Their own" XP 2 stroke oil wich is Jaso FD rated
 
yup. This spike thing has gotten out of control...I would certainly like the small, straight spike that comes on the European Dolmar 5105 rather than the North American silly big ones on my new Dolmar. Big spikes have their place on big saws with long bars felling big trees with thick, course bark. Otherwise small spikes or no spikes is the way to go.

I thought they were called felling dogs, not bucking spikes...
Bucking or felling is mostly a regional thing, sort of like the term rakers on chain and every circular saw called a Skil saw.
 
yup. This spike thing has gotten out of control...I would certainly like the small, straight spike that comes on the European Dolmar 5105 rather than the North American silly big ones on my new Dolmar. Big spikes have their place on big saws with long bars felling big trees with thick, course bark. Otherwise small spikes or no spikes is the way to go.

I thought they were called felling dogs, not bucking spikes...

Yes, felling is what they really are for, mainly in situations resembling those you described (long heavy bars/large trees).

Of course they can be useful for bucking as well, if the user really knows what he is doing (and what not to do).

However, they often are misused for forcing dull chains into the wood when bucking - a practice that is the root of many chainsaw issues.
 
The first thing I did with the 5105 is NOT install the outside dog (dawg?). And then, because the inside one sticks out so far, I found myself using it to buck for no reason at all (surprisingly; unconsciously), except that the new chain is basically dull and doesn't draw itself into the wood as I like. I will fix that with filing, and I may cut that inside dog into a smooth bumper. The little dog (ruf, ruf) on the ps420 is ideal for me.
 
The first thing I did with the 5105 is NOT install the outside dog (dawg?). And then, because the inside one sticks out so far, I found myself using it to buck for no reason at all (surprisingly; unconsciously), except that the new chain is basically dull and doesn't draw itself into the wood as I like. I will fix that with filing, and I may cut that inside dog into a smooth bumper. The little dog (ruf, ruf) on the ps420 is ideal for me.
The best thing that inside dawg does is protect that magnesium case.
 
The best thing that inside dawg does is protect that magnesium case.

And thats certainly a noteworthy feature, my jonsered 2055 is unfurtunenately pouring out chainoil from a bad crack/chip right where the crankcase halves meet horizontally, it doesnt help further more, that the upper and lover crankcase are protruding just slightly Where they mate. To make it even worse, the 2055 is rather difficult getting spares for here in Denmark.
 

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