Saws in the logging industry.

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why such long bars?

I have never seen anyone use less than a 32" bar on a logging saw in my area. I have tried since I have read all about it on this site, and got tired of bending over so far all the time and having to come at things from both sides to make a cut with the shorter bar. Limbing with the short bar is murder on the back, I think the slight loss of power with the longer bar is worth it. I read about people on here running 066's with 20" bars on them and I wonder, do they run there saws richer to keep them from blowing up from exteme rpm's?
 
Hiya redwood.
I pretty much only use a 20-22" bar. Its a whole lot less weight to cart around, plus we put on a larger rim sprocket and get more chain speed. When the boys are limbing, the logs are up on bearers, around a foot off the ground, and you walk down between the logs, so bending over just isn't done here. I certainly wouldn't run my saw richer, as I, and most who do, know how to use a saw. You don't hold them wide open at extreme rpm's, thats just asking for trouble. Everyone in our crew uses a 20" bar, and an MS660 fulltime on the skid will last 3-4 years before needing a rebuild, and thats with the average skiddie. The guys who really look after their saws get 5-6 years.

I've got a 36" bar, but I only ever use it for knocking over some really big stuff on the odd occasion.

I guess it comes down to what you are used to in the end.....
 
8 tooth sprocket

I have considered doing the bigger sprocket for more chain speed, but I heard that it makes the chain come off more often! Do you think so?
 
I have considered doing the bigger sprocket for more chain speed, but I heard that it makes the chain come off more often! Do you think so?

No. Thats a definite old wives tale. :hmm3grin2orange:

What sprocket do you run with the 32"? 7 tooth?

If you were in bigger wood than us, (ie: 40"+ on a regular basis) a 25" bar would certainly be an advantage, but apart from that, IMHO, a 22" is more than adequate.

I would only go to an 8 tooth for 25" or smaller bar. I run a 7 tooth with my bigger bars, and also run a high volume oil pump when I have the 36 on.
 
sprockets and bars

Around here almost everyone uses 7 tooth sprockets and bars that are a minimum of 32". 32" being most common all the way up to 60" for ripping a big log once in a while. Even though we run all these long bars, I have never seen anybody use a high volume oil pump. It sounds like a good idea though. I did'nt even know there was such a thing. I agree that on the landing we could use shorter bars most of the time, but people dont like the short ones around here. Maybe its just a macho thing, like a pickup with 40" tires that never goes off the pavement!!!!!
 
can you tell us more about the high volume oil pump that you use?

on my saws I just turn the oil screw to full
 
The high vol oil pump is a standard stihl accessory. Recommended by stihl on the MS660 when running 36" bars or bigger. I run my standard oil pump on the 20/22" bars on full open. I wonder, if running the 8 tooth sprocket has a bearing on the oil flow required? Probably does. If I only have a little bit to do with a big bar and can't be bothered changing the oil pump over, I certainly notice the difference, I don't like doing it to my chains. Over your side of the world the hi vol pumps are probably quite cheap, in NZ we pay around NZ$255 for a hi vol pump. Thats probably equivalent to about US$170 or less. I would imagine that you guys over there would be able to find aftermarket pumps a whole lot cheaper. I am sure the stihl one would be cheaper over there too. Regardless, A hi vol pump will outlast the life of a saw, to me its a cheap investment.

Just out of curiosity, how much do you guys pay for a brand new MS660? Here, an MS660 retails for NZ$2600, or about US$1800. Although, I can buy through the internet, but no warranty, and only pay around NZ$1800, about US$1300.

Would be interested to find out how much they sell fo over there. I'm sure us Kiwis get ripped off. :angry: :bang: lol!

Later!
 
bloody interesting question..... ive worked in crews in NZ & now work in a harvesting crew in australia,. originally i used husky(266) , because that is what most of the crew used, thinnings mostly, i then moved to a clearfall crew that used stihl, when it was time to buy a new saw i went to stihl (066), the main reason for the change was that in case of a break down during the work day i could beg or borrow parts etc to keep me going. Now i have to admit that i didnt have any major breakdowns with either brand. I currently run stihl and have done so for 14 years, I have recently given up my contract falling job to a guy that uses a husky(395). I used it falling for a coulple of days and heck it's a damn great saw, a bit heavier and more cumbersome than my (660) but given a week or two I would be more than happy with it, maybe apart from the fuel consumption., So like I said interesting question. I think the argument will continue...........Stihl or Husky........or???..


Stay Safe..........................
 
I hate to do this to you but here in Northern CA you can buy a MS660 for $1000 US dollars with your choice of up to 42" bar and chain.

I knew we were getting ripped off.

My price is for the powerhead only! A 20" rollamatic bar is another $160, then add the price of a chain]


:angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry:
 
posted a reply yesterday, not sure what happened to it.. (new to the site), jist of it was that i have used both proffessionally, and both are damned good proffessional saws, guess it comes dowm to personal preference, another question is.............. why do use the brand of saw that you do and why are you so passionate about the product..
 
I've owned and used both. I have had a 385 XP, a 288XP, and a 55 in the Husky range. I have had an 066, 2 MS660's, and an 088.

To be honest, in the huskys, I liked the 288 much better than the 385. 385 had less power than the 288, sounded terrible, and the plastics, sidecovers etc on the 385 were crappy. The clips that hold the airfilter cover (particularly on on the starter side) are rubbish, they keep coming undone. There is a 385 at work now with the exact same drama. I did use a 395XP for a few days, but still found it wanting when compared to my 660. The 55 was only my fencing saw, and was a damn good saw for its purpose.

The stihls have been more reliable, more power, and, well, they just sound better too :laugh:

I have used a 575 Husky at work, and I would have to say, it is the crappiest husky I have ever used. No where near enough power, but very smooth to use. But just too gutless. I guess I am used to the 660 with 92cc, so the 75cc husky just doesn't cut the mustard. ;)
 
And, I think I shall be loyal to Stihl, because I have an old 032 that I bought back in 1985 (I think) and I've moved a lot, sometimes using it to cut a lot of firewood, sometimes 3 years of sitting in the garage. I've brought it out to help a friend clean up slash after logging, and the thing runs like new. I've even named it. I'm thinking a longer bar might make it easier on the back for slash work though. Well, we're working in the snow again! Winter returned.
 
Stihl & Husky both around here but mostly tree harvestors.I use a 440 & 066 Stihl.A dealer who I bought a 440 from last year (sells both brands) told me he has more service work on the huskys. A big box stores sell Huskys cheaper around here & they don't service them,so he gets those people bringing there saws in 2 him for service,he fixes the ones he sells first.
 

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