Some of the buildings I watched over for Chase Banks used old air operated Johnson Controls & their make up air were all over the place. Some less than 2% & one over 10% if memory serves.
School me on indoor wood furnace
- Thread starter buildmyown
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Some of the buildings I watched over for Chase Banks used old air operated Johnson Controls & their make up air were all over the place. Some less than 2% & one over 10% if memory serves.
buildmyown
ArboristSite Operative
Wow lots of info here. Whatever i end up doing will be meet all codes and make the insurance company happy. I have to much time and money invested in this house to risk anything. I also live in Mass where its getting to the point that if I fart they want to monitor it.
Keith I will be in touch at somepoint even if its just to pick your brain a little.
Lets backup here for a minute. How would a normal install be for an add on or stand alone? Im not opposed to one over the other from the little reading i have done and from a few posts in here its starting to look like a stand alone might be a better option for me.
Keith I will be in touch at somepoint even if its just to pick your brain a little.
Lets backup here for a minute. How would a normal install be for an add on or stand alone? Im not opposed to one over the other from the little reading i have done and from a few posts in here its starting to look like a stand alone might be a better option for me.
buildmyown
ArboristSite Operative
Here are 2 pictures of what i have now.
First one looking at the oil burner the current stove is about 3 feet to the right in the photo. In the upper left of the picture you can see the current duct work for the furnace. The main trunk line is on the left and the cold air is on the right.
this one is looking from the furnace to the current woodstove. The stove is hiding behind the trash barrel and the pipe runs up along the wall at an angle then exits threw the concrete and into the tripple wall then up threw the roof.
First one looking at the oil burner the current stove is about 3 feet to the right in the photo. In the upper left of the picture you can see the current duct work for the furnace. The main trunk line is on the left and the cold air is on the right.
this one is looking from the furnace to the current woodstove. The stove is hiding behind the trash barrel and the pipe runs up along the wall at an angle then exits threw the concrete and into the tripple wall then up threw the roof.
I considered something like this & I'm sure it works great. Now my air handler runs 24/7 summer & winter, has for 'bout 5 years. I do place it on auto a little of the spring & fall when heat/ac demand is low.
Back in the 90s I believe it was someone on a radio program said to put them on manual & let them run. So I did. The last heating/cooling class I had we were told the same. Be all that as it may, mine is still running Whitespider. Bet it's cold where ya are?
We were told the constant air movement made the temp more consistent.
IMHO the air is also being filtered more & there’s less chance of mold & mildew but that's only my opinion.
mtfallsmikey
Addicted to ArboristSite
Well Keith, the origins of NFPA go back to 1896, John Freeman, and the founding of Factory Mutual Insurance Co. Most fire marshals actually go by the local/statewide building codes more than NFPA.
Some of the buildings I watched over for Chase Banks used old air operated Johnson Controls & their make up air were all over the place. Some less than 2% & one over 10% if memory serves.
All of that pneumatic stuff is pretty much gone now, modern DDC systems are way better.
True, if the correct fan speed is used.
Still two Chase Bank buildings here using pneumatic controls by Johnson Controls, go figure.
Could you expand on the fan speed statement? My unit has only one speed. Thanks Mike.
Last edited:
Do as much research as possible on wood furnaces. You will be surprised at the differences. Also, Keith does a very good job of advising on safely installing your system as well as other aspects of wood heat. Cutting corners on an install can be deadly. If it is done properly, and maintained, a wood furnace is a very rewarding investment. My wife will confirm that when the temp is -10 and she has the whole house at 78*.
Good luck.
Good luck.
mtfallsmikey
Addicted to ArboristSite
If the fan speed is too high, it causes a "drafty" condition, air cools down, can make it feel cold in the house. That's the beauty of VAV systems in commercial buildings, when working correctly.
My old boss had a building in downtown D.C. that was still using a DOS-based EMS, what a PITA that was.
Thanks.
Wagnerwerks
The underdog..
I will leave the technical discussion to the experts, as far as being that far from the existing furnace fan. We have an OLD (at least mid 70's)wood furnace, but its located right next to the LP/AC furnace, centrally located in the cellar of older farm house. Turn a couple of air flow diverters, and it sends the air though the wood furnace. We actually get quite a bit of heat rising naturally through the duct work. All the cold air return ducts are on the exterior walls of the house. Warm air ducts are centrally located. Like I said, this is an older unite. The auto draft control on the furnace will automatically close, in the event of a power failure. Fortunate to have generator and transfer panel wired to run the furnace in case of power outage.
This is old, like I say. But it works great, and you can see how close it is to the LP furnace. If and or when it needs to be replaced, I would probably look to the Yukon furnaces, as a replacement.
Gregg,
That Glenwood stove is the one I grew up with. Dad still uses it with no issues and it works better than my new furnace. Love them .
mtfallsmikey
Addicted to ArboristSite
Not really, was called a tech meaning I fixed that which I could & farmed the rest out. I've worked for two companies which held contracts with Chase for maintenance. I did lite electrical & plumbing. Part of the job was PM of heating & cooling systems. I worked on hot water & steam systems both gas & electric fired. Cooling was everything from small roof top units to 40 ton. We had chillers & cooling towers. I helped the pros work on this stuff but really I'm no pro except for changing ballast & bulbs.:msp_biggrin:
mtfallsmikey
Addicted to ArboristSite
I like chief 
:msp_smile:
My company wanted to move more into heating & cooling but seemed to be moving away from electrical. Just the opposite of where I wanted to go. So I picked up a saw & never looked back.
:msp_smile:My company wanted to move more into heating & cooling but seemed to be moving away from electrical. Just the opposite of where I wanted to go. So I picked up a saw & never looked back.
I know of at least 2 more of them in my area. The guy that does are plumbing/heating/electrical work has one, slightly larger model. And the rural mail carrier here has one, still working great. We had to replace the draft damper motor several years ago. Only thing we have done to it. That wasn't cheap! Couple hundred bucks!, but at least it is still available. Honeywell makes it.
Gregg,
Similar threads
