Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I need to take of pic of my saw, but its to cold. so. Anyways, most of my saws are somebodies elses junk. I have a 55 husky I bought new and everything else came from the junk pile. I think the most expensive saw I have, besides the new 55, is my 272xp. I have $75 bucks in it and that is including a new chain. I am graduating from saws to 4wheelers. My cousin called me up and asked if I could rebuild a grizzly 600. I told him I had never worked on any 4wheelers, what is wrong with it. Locked down. well bring it up, the worse I can do is tear it apart and not be able to put it back together. Spent half a day trying to get the spark plug out only to find out the sparkplug is 8mm instead of 3/4, 5/8, or 13/16 which is what every other plug I have ever seen is. Sprayed it full of pbnut blaster and it freed up in about 30min. Sprayed ether in it and it fired up. I wanted to do a compression test, but my tester wont screw into the plug hole. compression feels pretty good so worth working on. Pitcock on gas tank leaking as fast as I can pour gas in it. I took the pitcock apart and cleaned it up, now just waiting on a warmer day to put gas it it and see if it still leaks. He said the carb is also messed up so I might have to rebuild or replace. I used to have really good luck rebuilding hollys and quadjets, maybe the grizzly carb wont be to bad.

I've fixed hundred of grizz 600's over the years. Oil cooled so if the piston fried it was more than likely from lack of lube or the crankcase was filled with gas. Compression test does you nothing on those. They need to be leaked down. Usually the valves and cams made it through a dead oil burn down. If the oil is full of gas dump it and get some good in it. Sometimes you get lucky and it didn't wash the rings. The starter clutches on them suck. They clank hard. Usually the one way went out before anything else. A must on the carb is OEM. If the needle is rough replace it. They don't take cleaning. Replace the little o-rings in side. Yamaha jets are easy to clean. If you go chinese or aftermarket on the carb parts you'll pay dearly. Guys that ran full synthetic usually had problems. We ran 20-50 in the summer and 10-40 in the winter. One of the few wheelers that had heavy summer oil.
 
I've fixed hundred of grizz 600's over the years. Oil cooled so if the piston fried it was more than likely from lack of lube or the crankcase was filled with gas. Compression test does you nothing on those. They need to be leaked down. Usually the valves and cams made it through a dead oil burn down. If the oil is full of gas dump it and get some good in it. Sometimes you get lucky and it didn't wash the rings. The starter clutches on them suck. They clank hard. Usually the one way went out before anything else. A must on the carb is OEM. If the needle is rough replace it. They don't take cleaning. Replace the little o-rings in side. Yamaha jets are easy to clean. If you go chinese or aftermarket on the carb parts you'll pay dearly. Guys that ran full synthetic usually had problems. We ran 20-50 in the summer and 10-40 in the winter. One of the few wheelers that had heavy summer oil.
When I get into it, I will be sure to ask some questions. I dont think there is going to be to much wrong with it. They said it was running pretty good when it was parked. The fact that it took very little effort to get it unstuck suggests to me it is just a victim of being left out in the weather. I can buy a chinese carb for about $35 not sure what a oem carb would cost. I suspect the carb is a victim of ethanol gas and the fact it dried out. I will probably find rust and corrosion inside when I tear it down. I have/had a bucket I used to put old carbs in to clean. I would fill it with carb cleaner and I had a small air line soldered in the bottom of the can. I would hook up a low pressure air hose and make the carb cleaner just boil. This would pretty much remove any corrosion and varnish, but you couldnt put any diaphrams or rubber in it. Not a sonic cleaner, but works similar. Whether or not gas leaked thru the carb into the crankcase I havent checked. If it leaked in while the machine set not running, then it shouldnt have done any damage, but a oil change will be needed.
 
If you wear out gloves that quickly, why don't you consider applying small leather patches before the glove wears through? Tandy sells leather scraps on the cheap. Cut out a nice finger patch, then glue it onto the glove with contact cement (they sell that too). When the patch wears through to the original glove, just tear it off and put on another. $10 and a pair of scissors would probably save you about 40 fingertips. If you are so burly & bad that you are going through your gloves that much, your fingertips probably need the extra padding anyway.

patches seem the be the answer, given one likes or needs to make repairs. paying for new, lot less time consuming than repairs. always is. patching has been tried, ie, tape. just needed a quick fix... but casually had thot of a more serious repair. appreciate u bringing it up, and also the Tandy mention. we got Tandy here in town.

here is my first glove finger hole repair... class III gloves. these have been used for more gungie typs of work, wood splitting, sawing, stacking... etc. they have been thru the mill... couldn't find them one day. grrr! :blob2:then couple rainstorms later, I located them... :)

P5100001.JPG
 
it's not that I need them, I have some just like them also, 2 more pairs. next pair is for outside work, but not too HD etc. yet, I seem to always gravitate to the one's with the holes in them. other pair is just for walking dog, etc or if cold out. prob have 20 or so pairs of gloves, maybe more... my class II and I's...

P5100002.JPG
 
as to patching, I was influenced by this pair of gloves. a scrounge, of sorts. yard worker got wet, took them off muddy, wet... and forgot them. with no contact # they remained. I finally hand washed them couple times, cleaned them and set about to fix them. they were worn, seams loose and pads worn. it was the pads I took notice of. with some careful contact cement activity I 'sewed' them back together. use them as bike riding gloves, light duty. I saw a pair of these almost exact, but for name... at Sears couple weeks back. $24.95/pair. same color, design. the box is my gunge glove box.

P5100003.JPG P5100004.JPG
 
so I found a suitable donor glove in my gunge box... and started to make repair patches. kinda fun, even if a bit time consuming... I made patches, affixed and then reinforced in areas that had shown or was showing more wear... I kinda felt a bit like a tailor and an upholstery shop... lol

P5100006.JPG
 
so with a bit of attention to detail and a real nice tin of new, fresh contact cement... I ended up with repairs I think will work out pretty good... for scrounging, saw running, and splitting up cut scrounges. I snazzed up the leather gloves with some DeWALT emblems scarfed from two donor gloves.

they fit well. I will now let them sit for at least 72 hr to harden off the glue. maybe a week. I mite also put some leather oil on the patch lightly to help it bend easier, soften it up some. the leather is pliable, but rainstorms are hard on leather gloves... lol

then they should be fit for a 'return to service'

P5100008.JPG P5100009.JPG

i'll let you know how they hold up...
 
This is after I finished this morning. Had 1 white chunk and 7 small red oak to add.

Intended to tarp it eventually. We'll see how it pans out.


Neighbor came over and we cut n split another bucket (1/6 cord) basically set me up to have a productive day tomorrow!

nice! productive day, I bet that kept you guys warm! ;) :yes:
 
I did put some time on the 011 with this chain. I like it so seems like I need to adjust the carb a bit to get the most out of it. I ran it in white and red oak that's been down a long time. Up to 8" or so and very dirty, iced over bark ECT...

Chipper doesn't really answer your sharpening and reprofiling question. But compared to 91 with shark fins it seems like an upgrade to me and I liked the 91. I think any 40-45cc saw would do very well with this.
how to screenshot on windows
 
I did put some time on the 011 with this chain. . . . But compared to 91 with shark fins it seems like an upgrade to me and I liked the 91.
That's the narrow kerf version. I have it on my 40Volt pole saw and really like it. It is actually pretty assertive for small pitch, semi-chisel chain, and even better if you file it with the (harder to find) recommended 4.5mm (11/64") file.

Philbert
 
I was wondering about that file size. I thought I had a couple but they might be 4mm.
I asked an Oregon rep about it, because I thought of it as 'smaller' chain than the Type 91, but was confused why it called for a 'larger' diameter file. He told me that the cutter has a different profile. It works fine with a 4.0mm (5/32") file, but I did notice a difference on my pole saw. Maybe due to the small motor it was more pronounced.

Think I had to order the 4.5mm file and guide, because it is not as common a size.

Philbert
 
Back
Top